dookie454

So, I've recently upped my boost by changing to the 3.4" blower pully, before this I had a max of about 8-9psi with a 4.0 pulley using 12 rib pulleys and only about 10 rib belt due to the common idler problem which has since been fixed.

After changing to the 3.4" pulley and re-using the 43" 10rib belt I noticed boost was up to 10-12psi at around 5500 rpm and that's about as high as I reved it.

Lately I went out to rev it higher to see what boost I could get and had a belt jump problem again but was able to hit around 5900rpm and still 10-12psi, so I installed a new procharger slightly shorter 42" 12 rib I got off ebay, and Im seeing no difference with the pressure, it hits about 10-12psi at 55500rpm and stays flat then it actually starts coming down in pressure, drops to about 7-8psi at 5900-6000rpm. I only have a couple runs at the higher RPM since I dont know what's going on I dont want to hold it too long (it tends to hang out at 5900-6000rpm longer since boost is dropping and tires are slightly slipping).

There is a difference in belt wrap from the 43" and 42" belts, the 43" was on the long side so the tensioner was almost maxed: 10 rib with almost 3/4 pulley wrap, now I have a 12 rib 42" that I could barely get on even with the tensioner removed with slightly over 1/2 pulley wrap with tensioner installed.

Since the belt was new it relaxed a bit so tightened the tensioner even more, so it's 3/4 between the first and second notch. (I was at or slightly past the first notch), no difference in boost was noticed, it still dropped off as it revs past 5500rpm.

Im using the stock orange dryer pipe and air cleaner from Procharger that I got in 2004ish, the filter had collapse marks on it but I've since cleaned it and figured that would help.

What do you think? What's the best intake elbow to buy since I keep hearing different things, or is it best to make one since I have a wire feed welder?

Thanks!

Sean94Z

Ditch the orange hose, it is collapsing for sure. If you are a good fabricator, build yourself a solid one out of the biggest pipe you can fit up there.

Ditch the stock tensioner before you break the snout off your crank.. Get the SDCE Tensioner. Search for posts by me about it, and the ATI Big Block Hub.. Well worth it..

Kredz28

bro i have a custom made hks rubber elbow to come off the blower and custom fabbed aluminum piping rounting filter to the driver side in front of the front fender..

I had that crap orange tubing, ditched in favor of stronger same style tubing, and it still sucked..had my race shop in town fab up this one..would net you a pound or two more..lmk if you wanna buy it i can take some pics and show you!

dookie454

Sean, I understand the BigBlock hub but I dont understand how the stock tensioner would do that maybe when it's running the longer belt but def not with the shorter belt since the tensioner arm is almost parallel with the belt (with the 43" belt maybe I can see how the tensioner can jack-**** up in there since it's more perpendicular with the belt.

Please answer, Im taking this seriously.

Procharged94Lt1

Do you have any black dust around the pulley's at all? If the belt is slipping should have some signs of chewing the belt, even if ever so slightly.

Could always swap the pulleys back and make sure its an issue with new pulley setup and not just a coincidence with something else wrong. I know its a little more work but at least you can rule out other problems.

Sean94Z

I think you're losing boost is because of the orange hose collapsing. That is a documented problem with that hose.

What don't you understand about the stock tensioner? It is a crappy design from the start. If you look at SD Concepts site, there used to be videos on there showing the belt and issues with the tensioner and a high speed camera. I was just suggesting getting the tensioner and the big block hub before you break something. I broke 3 cranks running a 12-rib setup with their stock tensioner. Just looking to save you some aggrevation.

The SRZ

Ditch the tubing like others have said and pick this up and you won't have to worry about extra tubing at all. Procharger part # AF059I-001 / AIR FILTER - (A7600) RAW ASMB. 1.0 $48.02

97WS6Pilot

I used the newer procharger plastic intake and some 3.5 inch plastic(thinner pvc) sewer tubing from lowes to move the 9 inch k&n filter well up into the front left fender well as far forward as it will go away from the hot radiator/fan air. This served two purposes. It provided a good supply of cool air to the procharger and prevented collapsing. I thought it was kind of ghetto to start with but once I painted the white pvc black it looked really professional.

I know you don't want to hear this but the belt slip problem with a 3.4 inch pulley is probably not solvable. You need the step up gearing and bigger pulley of the F1 series blowers. I ran an F1a with an 8 rib no problem.

Hope this helps.

dookie454

I have wanted an F1 for awhile anyways.. know anybody selling one? I dont see black dust but I've only driven it once or twice since swapping pulleys. I hate the stock tensioner, also it's worn so it sits crooked and throws belts, I shim it straight and it's working, but overall a bad design. That A7600 looks interesting, for the money it looks like it's be worth it. Im thinking the heat would be substantial while sitting still but once moving there should be plenty of cool air in there... I might try that until I come up with something to replace the dryer hose.

Thanks for the info I'll remove the dryer hose first, at least the air cleaner, Im wondering how much more torque is required to spin the supercharger when the hose collapses or the air cleaner is restricting - maybe belt slip is increased by restrictions on the supercharger intake? I know a shop vac blower speeds up under extreme vacuum due to less force when you cap the inlet hose, I wonder if that is true with a supercharger, if that's true then the belt slip would not occur when the inlet collapses.

Procharged94Lt1

The belt slip is from the force on the output side and the charger attempting to cram more air in the outlet. Since there is already pressure there and it is attempting to increase it even more that is where you resistance is going to come from.

If you are getting belt slip with the hose collapsing I am going to bet that it is only going to be compounded once the charger can get all the air it needs.

My suggestion is get the intake figured out so you can eliminate that as a problem and go from there.

I hear issues with crank snouts getting snapped off and belt slip, belt alignment, intake hose collapse, mounting bracket flex etc. once you get into the D1-F1 series and that has what has swayed me to go the turbo route. Plus I like the idea of being able to crank up the boost with the turn of a ****.

Ultra_Dog

Im using the stock orange dryer pipe and air cleaner from Procharger that I got in 2004ish, the filter had collapse marks on it but I've since cleaned it and figured that would help.

ABSOLUTELY GET RID OF THE ORANGE PIPE AND REPLACE WITH ATI NEWER STYLE. DO NOT TRY TO USE IT WHATSOEVER.

siguy

lol yes thats my picture i posted a while ago and it works like a charm i notice an increase (about 1-2 psi at high rpm) plus it does not get filty like the other set up i had ...

siguy

also as a note: I went from the single 12 rib bet to two 6 rib belts very little belt slippage with low tension (you will always get some slippage unless you crank down the tension not recommend because it puts to much stress on the crank and blower bearings)

also you could spray the belt with belt dressing (this helps a little but wears off quickly)

dookie454

Hey what make/model# belts do you have and where'd you get them. I picked up two Napa 42.5" belts and those suckers were slightly different lengths, when one was tight the other was slightly loose. They didnt have 42" or 43". I started with 43" which gave good pulley wrap but made the tensioner arm perpendicular to the belt which I think can overtighten if it attemps to pull on the arm. I installed a 12rib procharger ebay 42" belt but it was almost impossible to get it on, however the tensioner arm is parallel with the belt so I'd think this is best for avoiding problems regarding the tensioner.

97SS0594

with the 3.4 you need a 42 inch belt the 43 is too big... i run a F1a and love it i ran the 3.4 on my P1SC the 3.4 is too small for my F1 or id run it so im stuck with the 4.0 pulley...