motor mounts
#16
Here's a quote from Dave at Yank Performance (torque converters):
"... the poly mount will break the tail housing overtime and is not
needed unless the frame is tied together with a roll cage.
Best Regards
Dave Myers
Yank Performance Mfg."
... and here is a response from Chuck at FLT:
"I think using the entire kit you'll be ok, most guys just use the trans
mount which I think causes problems at times because the motor is
moving more than the trans. I don't hear about the LT1 tails cracking
like the LS1 tails for some reason, maybe because the difference in
size. The only thing I don't like about them in a daily driver is that
they can cause excessive vibration that you might not like."
Personally, to be on the safe side, I am going to leave the stock rubber
tranny mount and maybe sell the Prothane poly tranny mount that is
still in the sealed carton.
"... the poly mount will break the tail housing overtime and is not
needed unless the frame is tied together with a roll cage.
Best Regards
Dave Myers
Yank Performance Mfg."
... and here is a response from Chuck at FLT:
"I think using the entire kit you'll be ok, most guys just use the trans
mount which I think causes problems at times because the motor is
moving more than the trans. I don't hear about the LT1 tails cracking
like the LS1 tails for some reason, maybe because the difference in
size. The only thing I don't like about them in a daily driver is that
they can cause excessive vibration that you might not like."
Personally, to be on the safe side, I am going to leave the stock rubber
tranny mount and maybe sell the Prothane poly tranny mount that is
still in the sealed carton.
#18
so what you guys are saying is if you get poly trans and engine mounts then i should be fine and not have vibration? I just had the trans mount done and i just got the stock replacement. My car is a daily driver so i want it to be as smooth as it can when im driving to work or on a weekend cruise.
#19
so what you guys are saying is if you get poly trans and engine mounts then i should be fine and not have vibration? I just had the trans mount done and i just got the stock replacement. My car is a daily driver so i want it to be as smooth as it can when im driving to work or on a weekend cruise.
#21
#22
The red markings - I had to grind down the top of the bolt head so
that it was flush (even with) the flat surface of the mount. You will
notice the blue markings - those grinds show when the bolt heads
were ground to the same level as the clamshell. Paint it black to
match and alleviate rust.
that it was flush (even with) the flat surface of the mount. You will
notice the blue markings - those grinds show when the bolt heads
were ground to the same level as the clamshell. Paint it black to
match and alleviate rust.
EDIT: I think I see what you did. Instead of using the zip ties you used the two bolts that you're supposed to use here:
Last edited by ssbowtie1; 05-15-2008 at 11:52 PM.
#23
I'll also add, that I have a (425rwhp) 454SS truck built for the street/towing that has worked fine for years with a poly mount and rubber engine mounts. Maybe the TH400 tranny is tougher in more ways than one.
But the advice for running an oem or one step higher durometer rubber tranny mount might be smart.
#25
apart - I only opened one side of the shell (the right-side in your pic).
EDIT: in hindsight, it doesnt matter that the clamshell is bolted shut (what
I did on the passenger side), since the mounting bolts will 'bolt it shut';.
Last edited by caldercay; 05-16-2008 at 05:31 PM.
#26
So other than assembling the mounts, how long of a job should this be with long tubes? 1-2 hours? I have a set of solid Moroso mounts that are waiting to go in with my poly trans mount and just wondered how much time to allow myself to do it.
#27
all in all, for me, it took 20+ minutes to do each engine mount and a little
over 2 hours for the Kooks.
#28
I've already got the Hooker LT's installed, just didn't know how much they would be in the way of swapping mounts and how long to swap the mounts out.
#29
The red markings - I had to grind down the top of the bolt head so
that it was flush (even with) the flat surface of the mount. You will
notice the blue markings - those grinds show when the bolt heads
were ground to the same level as the clamshell. Paint it black to
match and alleviate rust.
This pic shows how the corner of the mount impedes on the bolt hole.
#30
remember if it was because of that bolt. Not that I ground it, but I used a
very sharp knife to whittle away the clearance that I needed.
I did the "grinding" while the mount was in place, because I think that
the upper "u-shaped mount" (that is bolted to the block) was hitting on
the urethane as I slowly lowered the engine down to mate with the poly.
I have somewhere to run right now, but I can take photos of the final
install a bit later, if it's helpful.