Access door to change fuel pump - 4th Gen
#46
Shon, did you get it to work? I had the same issue on mine and I know of many others who got a pump with no offset like the stock pump, but no details on how well they functioned. I just worry that there would be problems sending fuel if the pump doesnt fit the bucket 'hole' snug like stock.
#47
Shon, did you get it to work? I had the same issue on mine and I know of many others who got a pump with no offset like the stock pump, but no details on how well they functioned. I just worry that there would be problems sending fuel if the pump doesnt fit the bucket 'hole' snug like stock.
#48
I just did mine Monday night. Other than the fuel line clips being a pain, the pump came out pretty easy. I used these instructions. Worked perfectly!
http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html
[EDIT] As of 6/20/10 the above link was not working.
http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html
[EDIT] As of 6/20/10 the above link was not working.
Last edited by Injuneer; 06-20-2010 at 02:21 PM.
#49
I didn't read this whole thread but after doing the fuel pump swap via the "door" a few weeks ago and seeing countless people use grinders of some sort and dealing with sparks I thought I would throw this out there.
Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.
Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.
#51
Were these special or high end snips? All the ones I've used in other projects seemed clumsy. How did you start the cut?
Thanks
Thanks
I didn't read this whole thread but after doing the fuel pump swap via the "door" a few weeks ago and seeing countless people use grinders of some sort and dealing with sparks I thought I would throw this out there.
Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.
Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.
#52
#54
1997 z28 fuel tank access door
I want to thank you guys for all of your posting about how to replace a fuel pump. I have a 1997 z28 and unfortunately, the fuel pump went. I did not want to cut my 5 month old, custom from the cat back welded on exauhaust off and possibly have some mechanic damaging the fuel filler neck by letting the rear hang.
I chose to do it myself.. I used a dremel wheel and took my time making the access door.. I was a bit worried about hitting the tank but found that it is impossible to hit the tank when going slow. You have a decent amount of room to play with if it is cut in the right area. The pump I replaced my stock one with was an ACDelco FLS1077. I chose that pump because it came with the pump, sender, gasket and you don’t have to worry about possibly damaging your basket or resealing your basket. It is as simple as disconnecting the hoses and power; three are best to disconnect under the car one on top. Pulling out the old and dropping in the new, took all of 15 min. to replace after the access hole was cut. My car runs GREAT now.. No problems what so ever!!! Thanks again guys!!
I chose to do it myself.. I used a dremel wheel and took my time making the access door.. I was a bit worried about hitting the tank but found that it is impossible to hit the tank when going slow. You have a decent amount of room to play with if it is cut in the right area. The pump I replaced my stock one with was an ACDelco FLS1077. I chose that pump because it came with the pump, sender, gasket and you don’t have to worry about possibly damaging your basket or resealing your basket. It is as simple as disconnecting the hoses and power; three are best to disconnect under the car one on top. Pulling out the old and dropping in the new, took all of 15 min. to replace after the access hole was cut. My car runs GREAT now.. No problems what so ever!!! Thanks again guys!!
#57
trap door
This is the BEST way to R&R the pump. Cut the hole with Sheet metal snips (aviation shears they are called) Left and right. Go to a sheet metal shop and get a 20 gage piece of gavalinized sheet metal 3 " larger than the hole. put gasket material around the panel and screw it down. Pre drill the holes in the panel, a slightly larger drill size than the screws. A # 10 pan head screw X3/4 " long -3 in each side. You can roll the carpet back away from the area before you cut the hole. Pre drill the corners of the opening with a 1/4 " drill bit, mark the outline of the hole and cut on the line and finish the opening with a file to smooth out the edges. Gorilla tape can also used to cover the rough edges of the cut metal. I've done it! Daunting at first, but take your time!! The top of the tank is about 1-1/2" -2" from the metal. Cut a small hole at first to get your exact location- its roughly centered on that metal shelf. Best of luck Ted
#59
I used a air powered cut-off wheel but I did not like all the sparks. I ended up making a larger hole so it was easy to access the quick disconnect fittings on the fuel lines. It took me maybe over an hour to have the car running again.
#60
I don't really like the jigsaw idea, I don't think you will have the clearance to the tank, even with a block of wood, and then there is the wiring to the sender which can be easily cut, etc.....I cut mine with aviation snips with no issues.