MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
#1
![Lightbulb](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/icons/icon3.gif)
Now that I've got my new 383 built and running, I'm going to start a big thread documenting my progress on the car.
My car previously was stock with an STS kit and custom piping / intercooler. My motor was is poor shape (blowby, etc.) and it lasted about a year on 7psi. The motor lost oil pressure one night and half the bearings seized/spun.
This time around I am upgrading from the 60-1 turbo to a T76 to feed the built-for-boost 383. Since my new goals are somewhere around 700rwhp, I will also be redoing the piping, which was mostly 2.25".
My car previously was stock with an STS kit and custom piping / intercooler. My motor was is poor shape (blowby, etc.) and it lasted about a year on 7psi. The motor lost oil pressure one night and half the bearings seized/spun.
This time around I am upgrading from the 60-1 turbo to a T76 to feed the built-for-boost 383. Since my new goals are somewhere around 700rwhp, I will also be redoing the piping, which was mostly 2.25".
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:21 AM.
#2
I'll start off with some pics from my motor build.
Here's the basic specs:
383 9.1:1 compression ratio
Callies Stealth Crank
Lunati 6" ProMod I-beam rods
JE Extreme Duty blower pistons 26cc dish
Childs & Albert gapless rings
ARP main & head studs
4 bolt splayed caps
Cometic MLS head gaskets
CNC ported LT4 heads & intake 58cc, 210cc runners
Custom grind Comp turbo cam 114LSA
Stock oil pan
Mellings select standard volume pump w/ hi pressure spring
Fluidampr
CSR electric water pump
![](https://i35.tinypic.com/29mt55j.jpg)
![](https://i36.tinypic.com/o9iip2.jpg)
Notch added to stock oil pan for dipstick/main cap clearance.
![](https://i37.tinypic.com/kcnqc2.jpg)
Mellings select std volume pump with pickup tacked on and inlet scoop removed.
![](https://i37.tinypic.com/r7k3er.jpg)
These are little risers I made using the stock windage tray bolts. They space the windage tray away from the (longer stroke) crank.
![](https://i34.tinypic.com/zjtbu1.jpg)
Risers threaded onto the ARP studs, then jammed on with the lower nut.
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/21e2ng8.jpg)
Welded water pump drive hole.
![](https://i35.tinypic.com/slsg1x.jpg)
Cloyes 3145 double roller installed.
Here's the basic specs:
383 9.1:1 compression ratio
Callies Stealth Crank
Lunati 6" ProMod I-beam rods
JE Extreme Duty blower pistons 26cc dish
Childs & Albert gapless rings
ARP main & head studs
4 bolt splayed caps
Cometic MLS head gaskets
CNC ported LT4 heads & intake 58cc, 210cc runners
Custom grind Comp turbo cam 114LSA
Stock oil pan
Mellings select standard volume pump w/ hi pressure spring
Fluidampr
CSR electric water pump
![](https://i35.tinypic.com/29mt55j.jpg)
![](https://i36.tinypic.com/o9iip2.jpg)
Notch added to stock oil pan for dipstick/main cap clearance.
![](https://i37.tinypic.com/kcnqc2.jpg)
Mellings select std volume pump with pickup tacked on and inlet scoop removed.
![](https://i37.tinypic.com/r7k3er.jpg)
These are little risers I made using the stock windage tray bolts. They space the windage tray away from the (longer stroke) crank.
![](https://i34.tinypic.com/zjtbu1.jpg)
Risers threaded onto the ARP studs, then jammed on with the lower nut.
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/21e2ng8.jpg)
Welded water pump drive hole.
![](https://i35.tinypic.com/slsg1x.jpg)
Cloyes 3145 double roller installed.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 04-29-2011 at 09:43 PM.
#3
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/1ze8uuv.jpg)
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/a2x09j.jpg)
Cometic MLS
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/2s9q937.jpg)
Heads decked around .026" (from 64cc to 58cc)
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/20f5kxj.jpg)
Fully CNC ported LT4 heads, 210cc runners
![](http://i37.tinypic.com/1znlrmo.jpg)
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/1zghz7.jpg)
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/2qc1lr4.jpg)
Heavily ported and ceramic coated stock exhaust manifolds
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/2n0pr81.jpg)
Heavily ported and ceramic coated stock exhaust manifolds
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/2eur4ty.jpg)
Stock throttle body, A/C compressor, 60# mototrons can be seen
![](http://i38.tinypic.com/nwzf45.jpg)
Powdercoated Trickflow elbow and MAF sensor
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:22 AM.
#4
This basically brings us up to date on the motor. Here's some detail on the intercooler.
When I first got and installed my intercooler it looked like this. The intercooler was too low and would scrape the ground if I went straight into my driveway, not OK since this is one of my daily drivers.
![](https://i43.tinypic.com/rsvhab.jpg)
The IC couldn't really be moved up because the inlet and outlet were already up against the bumper, so I removed 2 runners off the bottom.
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/20u7cc7.jpg)
![](https://i36.tinypic.com/otgtc2.jpg)
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/287q842.jpg)
![](https://i37.tinypic.com/w056o5.jpg)
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/s4ukp5.jpg)
![](https://i34.tinypic.com/20u9v07.jpg)
When I first got and installed my intercooler it looked like this. The intercooler was too low and would scrape the ground if I went straight into my driveway, not OK since this is one of my daily drivers.
![](https://i43.tinypic.com/rsvhab.jpg)
The IC couldn't really be moved up because the inlet and outlet were already up against the bumper, so I removed 2 runners off the bottom.
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/20u7cc7.jpg)
![](https://i36.tinypic.com/otgtc2.jpg)
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/287q842.jpg)
![](https://i37.tinypic.com/w056o5.jpg)
![](https://i38.tinypic.com/s4ukp5.jpg)
![](https://i34.tinypic.com/20u9v07.jpg)
![](https://i35.tinypic.com/9zwzd4.jpg)
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:29 AM.
#5
I modified the intercooler again last week.
I welded a strip of aluminum across the bottom front. Using 5 of those locking plastic push pin thingies, the bumper cover is now secured to the intercooler.
![](http://i37.tinypic.com/311wdc3.jpg)
Bumper cover secured to IC. Flap inside has been painted black too.
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/1zytvlf.jpg)
Ground clearance is as good as stock
![](http://i35.tinypic.com/2ugm6w1.jpg)
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/6o0tuh.jpg)
A somewhat unrelated pic
I welded a strip of aluminum across the bottom front. Using 5 of those locking plastic push pin thingies, the bumper cover is now secured to the intercooler.
![](http://i37.tinypic.com/311wdc3.jpg)
Bumper cover secured to IC. Flap inside has been painted black too.
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/1zytvlf.jpg)
Ground clearance is as good as stock
![](http://i35.tinypic.com/2ugm6w1.jpg)
![](http://i33.tinypic.com/6o0tuh.jpg)
A somewhat unrelated pic
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:23 AM.
#6
Made some more modifications to the intercooler tonight.
Since my new IC-to-engine pipe is going to be 3.5" (as opposed to the old 2.25" one), I decided to cut the 3" outlet off the intercooler and weld on a 3.5" one. This should make for a very clean pipe w/o the 3" restriction between the IC tank and the 3.5" pipe.
![](http://i38.tinypic.com/sfhwz9.jpg)
The 3.5" pipe. Since I'm going to be running in speed density mode, I will be deleting the MAF and extending the pipe. This will delete clamps/silicone and give an even cleaner look.
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/1zzs3v8.jpg)
3" outlet removed with plasma cutter.
![](http://i34.tinypic.com/28aqgpg.jpg)
3.5" outlet welded on and ported smooth inside.
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/jidkdd.jpg)
Finished intercooler
Since my new IC-to-engine pipe is going to be 3.5" (as opposed to the old 2.25" one), I decided to cut the 3" outlet off the intercooler and weld on a 3.5" one. This should make for a very clean pipe w/o the 3" restriction between the IC tank and the 3.5" pipe.
![](http://i38.tinypic.com/sfhwz9.jpg)
The 3.5" pipe. Since I'm going to be running in speed density mode, I will be deleting the MAF and extending the pipe. This will delete clamps/silicone and give an even cleaner look.
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/1zzs3v8.jpg)
3" outlet removed with plasma cutter.
![](http://i34.tinypic.com/28aqgpg.jpg)
3.5" outlet welded on and ported smooth inside.
![](http://i36.tinypic.com/jidkdd.jpg)
Finished intercooler
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:18 AM.
#11
Yeah I see it now- I was at work last night and a couple of the pics didn't load up.
Pardon my ignorance- but what did you do to drive the opti since the cam sprocket doesn't have the stock casting for the opti drive? I would love to know since I have a double roller sitting in my tool box right now and would love to use it.
Looking real nice so far-keep it up!
Pardon my ignorance- but what did you do to drive the opti since the cam sprocket doesn't have the stock casting for the opti drive? I would love to know since I have a double roller sitting in my tool box right now and would love to use it.
Looking real nice so far-keep it up!
#12
The Cloyes 3145 cam gear has a hole for the cam dowel that drives the opti. Most other gear sets won't swap on. Keep in mind my car is a '95 with the dowel, not the earlier spline drive kind.
#15
Agreed! These kind of pictorials are what prompted/encouraged me when I was doing my build. As others said, your welds are art. I wish I had that talent, especially with aluminum. I'm okay with exhaust stuff now but Aluminum, that's a future skill for me.
![Smilie](https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)