DevilsAddvocate

Sounds good to me, type of cam you plan on running?

jrg77

Iuhno, what's a good one?

On another board I hear about a CC306, GM847 or some Comp CAms Extreme Roller.

Supchevy used this one:
COMP Cams XR286R solid roller camshaft (248/254 @ .050, 286/292 adv, .606/.612 lift w/ COMP 1.6:1 rockers, 110 LS), Holley HP1000 carb, 38 degrees total ignition advance.

and this one:
COMP Cams XR280R solid roller camshaft (242/248 @ .050, 280/286 adv, .600/.606 lift w/ COMP 1.6:1 rockers, 110 LS), COMP solid roller lifters lashed at 0.016-intake and 0.018-exhaust, 38 degrees total ignition advance.

Any better ones?

DTL504

I'm not dgoing to knock your engine builder, but the fact is the bigger heads and a single plane into will operate in the higher RPM range. Build your engine to match where is will spend the majority of its time.
Do some research/comparison and find the RPM range for the Single plane and where the 210 heads flow the highest. Also know what your dynamic and static compression will be to include whats the quench. I'm not saying that you will be disappointed with that combo he suggest but if the match components he is assembling does not reach its potential until 3500 RPM & up and you are not operating in that RPM range than you will be dissappointed in your low RPM Range. If this is a Quarter mile car with 60% strip I think it would be good to go bigger. Remember this Bigger is NOT always Better.
As for cam I will call different cam manfacture and talk to them. The cam designer for Lunati (UDHarold) who was the previous owner of Ultradyne Cam is the I talked to before picking my cam. By the way he design the H.E. Cam for Comp Cams. Look around on this web site and ask question their is a lot experience of people building 400 (Chevelle Tech

Also download DCR Calculator written by Pat Kelly, it will let you know what combination/machining to achieve the proper quench (.035-.045).
DCR Calculator

Right now I dont think you are ready to start building, you need to have a solid plan so that you spend money efficient and get the best results for your budget. I have about $6000.00 in my engine.

Here is another good forum that can give some good advice:Chevy Talk

DevilsAddvocate

Hes right, it will NOT make any power below 3grand so if this is your street car id definetly suggest atleast changeing to a dual plane intake manifold. Id keep the 210s but thats just me. Also ya you have to do all those little calculations to make sure it runs right and you get out of it what you want (not something that only pulls from 5-10 grand). Once again hes also right on the expensive part. Ive spent damn near 7 grand on my build (well i got some used stuff but if you were to buy everything new) and i am still not done. I still have machine work to pay for which will be atleast another G so im guessing to duplicate my engine about 8.5 grand. Ive been building it slowly pay check by pay check and just decided to see how much ive spend/will spend and was pretty shocked to see how much has already gone into it. Have fun tho thats whats most important.

jrg77

So here's the question...

Given I have the Performer RPM intake right now how would it chnage the way the Victor jr. heads flow? I am sure the number would be limited by the flow/velocity of the intake, but how much? Would the velocity slow down so significantly that this is a mismatch or just bring the right mixture in at my preferred rpm?

I have no problem spending the cash. All it takes is time to get it. That said, I'm not trying to just throw money out the window to get a low performing unit with all of the hot flashy names/terms. Cash doesn't fix bad decisions, and I am trying to make good ones. That takes a specific approach to fact gathering, and information analysis. So far what I've read doesn't match my approach, and doesn't offer an alternative.

As far as heads go the flow numbers I'm looking for are 250-270 between .400 and .500. The minimal cross sectional area should be around 2.16. Now how to go about matching both to the same head at a chamber size that allows me to run 91 octane?

DTL504, your combo is good for 460s. What was your approach to part selection? How close to your target did you get? How is it on the street? What gas do you use? Do you think that 210s would give you the extra 40 horse for 500? Would they just move the range higher? (You and I should get together sometime, I'm in your neck of the woods...)

DTL504

Where are you located?
I will respond later but I have to make a run now and will be back later tonight.
Thanks for the compliment, we should get together and talk and see what are you looking for. Here is a few questions.
1. How much money are you willing to spend on this combo?
2. What is your timeline for completing this engine?

jrg77

I figure about $6000 should be more than enough with the block work already completed. Ten months from now, and I should be putting it back in the car.

Gary, In. I work between West Chicago, Waukegan, and Chicago Heights.

80mph 23mpg - The next best thing to the sig.

SSnthe10s

we have a 404" .20 over 400
eagle 4340 crank
eagle H beam rod
srp flat tops
Super victor intake
Dart pro 1 230cc head
FAST efi
it has been spun to well over 7k b4
this block has also been converted to splayed main caps. if u buy a block make sure u get a 2bolt so if u wanna make better power later u can have it converted.

and it will go 11.50s NA all day in a 3600lbs car
and 10.30s on a 175shot

i would not go .40 over on a 400 if u really want to be making some good HP and spinning it fast the cylinder walls get thin. if i was making a race 400 i would go no bigger then a 406 wich is .30 over. bore the least over u can!

also u can easily run more then 10.5:1 compression ratio on iorn heads. b4 the darts were bought we had soem vortec on it and it was 11.5:1 and ran fine all day on pump gas and the way driven often and wew on for a couples yers with not one problem. the key is to have good "quench" IE have the blaock zero decked.

here are some random engine shots. and the turbo hearder being fabbed
http://community.webshots.com/album/145780202tUKHiF

http://image09.webshots.com/9/3/73/7...5FDPrgA_fs.jpg

jrg77

Do you feel that you had to go EFI to keep it streetable?

When I nail it in this car the higher the range the better. I know from the calculations the trip will be cruising between 2500-2800. But if I drop a gear then I'm above 3000, and that's where I really want it to show itself. The general sense I got was that you can't get a cam for more than 4000 rpm range. So thats the range I chose and why.

I wish I could go EFI right off the bat, but I have to trim some nickels to get it in the car. So carb first then EFI.

I think with the 7cc cuts on these .040 over pistons I will be at 11-11.5:1 on a 64cc chamber. So I need a +70cc chamber to get down where 10-10.5. The block height is 9.005 so the thing to do is work with .0350" to get the quench to .040", right?

Jason

SSnthe10s

we went EFI cuz we got a good deal on it and the widband o2 makes tuning a snap! making adjustmenst is so much more fun while sitting in the drivers seat

DevilsAddvocate

you need a .035" head gasket, correct

jrg77

Went to a race shop local (Joe Rhyne), and talked to the counterperson there. Asked about Brodix Track 1 heads and recommended Dart Pro 1s.
Talked to the other guy at the first shop and said the Dart Pro 1s would do better now and later than the Victor jrs. They have those in stock also.
Talked to Lloyd Elliott (REALLY VERY HELPFUL!!!) and he recommends Dart Pro 1s - ported, of course.

That's it, I'm done. Thanks, guys!

Now... to learn about picking cams...