For 2K, How Fast Can I Go?
02-23-2004, 09:12 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 584
I spent $2200 for the 350HO crate motor and that got me into the high 12's, you wouldnt be able to duplicate that with TPI smog legal tho 
. I would say buy a good set of forged pistons and connecting rods and put a serious dose of nitrous on it.
Actually... now that I think about it, have you looked at these kits:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2460959466
He sells the complete kits for like $2,500 ready to install with everything you need.
. I would say buy a good set of forged pistons and connecting rods and put a serious dose of nitrous on it.Actually... now that I think about it, have you looked at these kits:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2460959466
He sells the complete kits for like $2,500 ready to install with everything you need.
02-23-2004, 11:30 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: ONTARIO CANADA
Posts: 718
i dont like spray, i feel its cheating and cheap, its also not legal everywhere, and the power isnt there unless you flip a switch. then you have to refill it, and it may hurt your motor.
and i feel it doesnt mean your car is fast.
id rather take that 2 grand and buy a used s/c or do an agressive cam, heads, intake, and exhaust
and i feel it doesnt mean your car is fast.
id rather take that 2 grand and buy a used s/c or do an agressive cam, heads, intake, and exhaust
02-24-2004, 12:36 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 584
Originally posted by kevin 2.8
i dont like spray, i feel its cheating and cheap, its also not legal everywhere, and the power isnt there unless you flip a switch. then you have to refill it, and it may hurt your motor.
and i feel it doesnt mean your car is fast.
id rather take that 2 grand and buy a used s/c or do an agressive cam, heads, intake, and exhaust
i dont like spray, i feel its cheating and cheap, its also not legal everywhere, and the power isnt there unless you flip a switch. then you have to refill it, and it may hurt your motor.
and i feel it doesnt mean your car is fast.
id rather take that 2 grand and buy a used s/c or do an agressive cam, heads, intake, and exhaust
02-24-2004, 01:55 AM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: secret under ground performance lab
Posts: 406
Originally posted by kevin 2.8
id rather take that 2 grand and buy a used s/c or do an agressive cam, heads, intake, and exhaust
id rather take that 2 grand and buy a used s/c or do an agressive cam, heads, intake, and exhaust
THEN FAWKING DO THAT!
why would u ask if u know what u wanna do.
02-24-2004, 02:15 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orange County, CA, USA
Posts: 114
Originally posted by SSnthe10s
THEN FAWKING DO THAT!
why would u ask if u know what u wanna do.
THEN FAWKING DO THAT!
why would u ask if u know what u wanna do.
I'm leaning towards going the heads/cam/intake route. If I go with something like Vortec heads, and an LT4 cam, which intake would match (that still passes smog)?
carry on
02-24-2004, 03:41 PM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orange County, CA, USA
Posts: 114
Originally posted by Mike86Z28
$2000 including labor, I would say ...... Gears, headers/exhaust and then see how much you have left to play with. You have to decide if you want to keep the TPI setup or go with something else (carb, Stealthram, Superram, etc.). If you keep the TPI you could always slap on some Runners and an Adj Fuel Press Reg and possibly get the Plenum ported.
Just some ideas
$2000 including labor, I would say ...... Gears, headers/exhaust and then see how much you have left to play with. You have to decide if you want to keep the TPI setup or go with something else (carb, Stealthram, Superram, etc.). If you keep the TPI you could always slap on some Runners and an Adj Fuel Press Reg and possibly get the Plenum ported.
Just some ideas
02-24-2004, 06:50 PM
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: ONTARIO CANADA
Posts: 718
if your handy enough to do it all yourself, would make all the difference in the world. as you would have more to spend that would be saved from labour expenses and you could dremel youself a port job on the tpi inkae and headers and exhaust manifolds
02-25-2004, 02:16 PM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: TORONTO, Canada
Posts: 16
id focus on the driveline. ie. tranny and rear , then do the motor...
TQ 2200-2500 stall convertor, shiftkit, 3.42 gears...
Then stuff like headers, catback, TB foil, roller tip rockers (if u dont wanna do a cam yet) , better intake by means of runners, ported plenum or LT1 intake swap......
some computer tuning, underdrive pulleys etc etc.....
reduce weight, ie. lightweight carpeting etc etc....
even some suspension bits.... SUBFRAME COnnectors!!!!!!!
start off small, then go big.....
TQ 2200-2500 stall convertor, shiftkit, 3.42 gears...
Then stuff like headers, catback, TB foil, roller tip rockers (if u dont wanna do a cam yet) , better intake by means of runners, ported plenum or LT1 intake swap......
some computer tuning, underdrive pulleys etc etc.....
reduce weight, ie. lightweight carpeting etc etc....
even some suspension bits.... SUBFRAME COnnectors!!!!!!!
start off small, then go big.....
02-25-2004, 02:28 PM
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Markham, ON
Posts: 1,240
LMAO this is all REALLY bad advice. Saying what the next mod is doesnt make sense unless you know what your goals are for the car.
Doing heads, cam and intake is a bad idea on a stock motor if youre going to use top quality parts and want to be pushing 500 hp then youll just blow the motor up.
if your goals for this car lay in the 350-400 fwhp range then you could do cam, intake and heads.
Also whats more important to you handling or 1/4 mile speed?
Its important to set goals on where the car is going to end up so you know what youre aiming for. Its also important to realize the weak points on your car.
While some trannys and rear ends seem to magically hold rediculous amounts of power i wouldnt trust my stock rear end (assuming its a 10 bolt add 50-75 hp for a 9 bolt) past 350 and the tranny in the 325-375 range.
So if you plan on making over 350 hp, id do tranny and rear end first. Theres a million different things that come into play but the most important thing is knowing what you want to do with the car.
Doing heads, cam and intake is a bad idea on a stock motor if youre going to use top quality parts and want to be pushing 500 hp then youll just blow the motor up.
if your goals for this car lay in the 350-400 fwhp range then you could do cam, intake and heads.
Also whats more important to you handling or 1/4 mile speed?
Its important to set goals on where the car is going to end up so you know what youre aiming for. Its also important to realize the weak points on your car.
While some trannys and rear ends seem to magically hold rediculous amounts of power i wouldnt trust my stock rear end (assuming its a 10 bolt add 50-75 hp for a 9 bolt) past 350 and the tranny in the 325-375 range.
So if you plan on making over 350 hp, id do tranny and rear end first. Theres a million different things that come into play but the most important thing is knowing what you want to do with the car.
02-25-2004, 03:51 PM
#15
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Grandville/ Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 1,003
Tom, I did cam, pistons, headers, convertor, full rebuild incl. .030 over bore and new bearings etc. for about $2000. I already had teh 3.73 gears from a previous accident so take that into account. I did run high 13's with the car though for $2000. I did all the work myself except the machineing of the block and decking of the heads. check sig for details.