Chris`s85Z28

Well I bought a 350 4 bolt main i think its out of a 81 3500 Chevy but I plan on 400+hp maybe 500 would it be better to port n polish the heads or buy new heads also it gonna be a forged 350 witch parts are best and I want the biggest lumpest cam I can fit in there witch should I get I`ve never done this before so i need help thanx

------------------
R.I.P Dale Earnhardt 3 Nascar isn`t the same without you
1985 Z28 My pride and joy
LG4 305 5spd T-tops 3:23 posi 2.5" exshust mild street cam Accel wires shorty plugs cap rotor and a H.E.I super coil
5.0L BEWARE
http://Chevy-Camaro-Z28.CZ28.com
Speed limits Whats that???
Kills 1/0

aklim

Chris. Punctuation makes reading easier.

What is the application? The cam you describe may make it not streetable. Gas mileage could suck too. LPE makes a 383 that gets around 480 ft/lbs of torque and is streetable. About 21 mpg on highway and 15 in the city. You could also get a blower and make more than that. I would dump the boat anchors and get AFR 190s or 105s with a complete port job. Using that package, I had to go with a torque converter that was 500 above stock stall otherwise I would stall at the lights unless I kept my foot on the gas.

What induction? EFI or Carb? You will need headers, beefed up 700R4, better rear end.

As to the rear end, either get a TA cover with some sort of support so you don't get cap walk. Get Auburn Pro Series posi with 3.73 gears.

IrocSS85

check out my eng. package in my sig., its a great eng. w/tons of more potential. wish I had the funds to get forged crank and rods though.

my car gets 11mpg btw w/mixed city/highway/racing/being a jackass on the street

Im sure w/a looser stall Id get mid 12's easy. stillhavent been back to the track after tuning and stuff. this stall only footbrakes to 1900 rpm, so thats holding me back big time.

also, I have lt1 fans in there and my autocooling fans keep the eng. at 175 easy. if I just turn the fans on it will stay at 160 all day (a bit higher on really hot/humid days)

defenitly get rid of the truck heads. they are scrape. the afr's are the best I think, the 195's shoud be good. also, if I could Id get solid roller cam (dont have the funds for that either) w/higher lift but same duration. thats sure worth about 30-50 HP at the top end w/roller rockers too.
good luck and if you have any questions email me. chris


------------------
1986 Iroc Z
355, cleaned up trick flow twisted wedge G1 heads, 750 holley, 700r4, 10:1 compr., forged flat tops, solidcam .501I .510E, 4gen rear w/3:73 posi, girdle, and disc's, Edel. torker II, shift kit, 2500 stal, hedmann LT. headers, 4 gen seats, man. strg., lt1 starter, alum. w/p, msd 6al, coil, dist., mallory wires.
12.86 @109mph so far(still need fine tuning)

1995 z28,SS Hood, Iroc style spoiler, tints and black outs, 700r4,2400 act. stall speed,B&M hammer shifter, 17" budnick trilogy III wheels, 275/40 ZR17, 160 stat, man. cooling fan sw., homemaid CAI,1LE elbow, hypertech airfoil, t.b.bypass,!cat, flowmaster, !maf screen, relocated batt., 1LE front l.c.a.s', poly trans and torq.arm bushings, MSD 6AL, custom program, p&p maf, accel coil, and under drive pulley

mods that i have, just not on car yet:
msd wires, edelbrock mid. headers, edelbrock rpm catback

Chris`s85Z28

Well this 350 is for my 85 Z28

I`m running a T-5 yeah I know a 350 is death to a t-5. so this is what I have planed for it so far

Bottom end: Forged crank rods pistons bored .030" over maybe .040" with studs for the main caps instead of bolts. I want`ed to keep it a 4.00" bore but I can`t. Morso deep sump oil pan with a crank scrapper. The pistons will be domed and I can`t deside if I want a 5.7" or 6.0" rod are the chevy pink rods forged? thought about going to a 383 stroker but I`ve be advised not to so I`ll stay 355

Cam: I want a comp cam I saw one with a .501" lift intake and .525 lift exshust I`ll get more specs on this cam later. I also want a gear drive.

Heads: Don`t know what I want to do here. I`ve heard good things about the AFR heads (I think thats what there called correct me if I`m wrong) or maybe the fast burn Gm performance heads if I choose these heads I`ll go with flat top pistons or get a set of factory cast 2.02 1.60 heads and port and polish the hell out of them. Comp cams 1.6 roller rockers and screw in studs and 10.5 to 1 comp.

intake: victor jr single plan with a holley 850cfm carb with a K&N Filter or maybe a duel tunnel ram with 2 4bbl holleys

Exshust:1 3/4" Long tube headers slp maybe. 2 High flow 3" cats and a H pipe to flow masters and exited out thhe side in front of the rear wheels oh yeah 2 cut outs infront of the cats the whole system will be 3"

Well this is what I plan on doing I hope its worth 400-450hp
I`ll be useing a center force cluch and maybe changing the gears to 4.11 from my 3.23 and hopfuly I`ll have enough left to buy a T-56. I`ll be running molble 1 oil and 94 oct gas

IrocSS85 nice engine

Chris

aklim

I don't understand why you were advised against a 383. I haven't seen anything bad about them yet unless they are built wrong or overbored.

AFR heads are wonderful especially if you plan a supercharger. They are strong heads.

Chris Ja

The 355 is a good high rev motor. Using a carb is the best way to go with a 355. You are better off with a 383. It is going to make more torque and I don't know why anyone would tell you different. I use the LPE cam and like it. I matched all my parts LPE heads (ported,polished,pocket ported ect) 219/525 LPE cam, LPE SuperRam 10.1 forged TRW ect. Has run 12.96 at 110 MPH. Car needs more tuning and a 3000 stall converter. Should run 12.5 et then.
If you are going to run a carb I would do a 383,afr 195 ,11.1 forged TRW, LT headers. As far as the intake and carb make sure you match the parts to the head and cam. Bigger is not always better. Do you really want a tunnel ram sticking thru the hood? More people mismatch parts and then are disapointed when there cars aren't that fast. Take your time and know what you want the car to do on the street and track. It will be cheaper in the long run not having to go back and buy more parts.

IROCSS85 I have a 3000 stall nonlock up converter that is new if you need one. I didn't know it was a nonlock up when I bought it so not using it. If you are running big gears and want it let me know and I will do you a deal. It has less than 20 miles on it.

Chris`s85Z28

Well the reson he told me not to go 383 was because the 400 crank will put too much pressour on the cylinder walls He`s built lots of engines so I guess he knows what he`s taiking about

about the intake I want a cowl hood like 2-3" I don`t think I`ll do the 2 4bbl but I do want a single plan intake what do you think is best?. I might go with a super charger in the future but not right now.

I did want to go with a 383 stroker but they want $1000 for a 350 steel crank I`d hate to see the price on a 400 steel crank

also is a steel crank forged he said he has a 350 factory steel crank ground .010" for $500 would it be forged?

I forgot to get spec`s for the cam i`ll try to rember later

thanx for the replys

Chris

aklim

What ratio of Roller Rockers are you running. 0.525 lift is only if you are running 1.5. I am running 1.6 and it is 0.560 lift. Someone suggested running 1.6 in the intake valves and 1.5 on the exhaust. Comments, anyone? By the way, I am running 10.8:1 with the AFR 190 heads. Is there a reason you are running it lower than that? I thought EFI motors could run at 11:1. Carbs were supposed to be less unless you keep doing frequent adjustment. Don't know too much about carbs tho so I could be wrong.

Chris`s85Z28

I also want full roller roller cam lifters and 1.6 roller rockers I heard that there is a kit to make a non-roller block into a roller-block

aklim

http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...24&pf%5Fid=103

Select options 853-16 for retro fit.

I don't know about your engine builder but everybody and their brothers have been doing 383 combos since who knows when.

If you overbore it to say 0.060 and/or don't do a sonic check for core shift, it could be a problem. Maybe sleeving the cylinder is out but I have never heard of the problem you describe. Actually LPE refuses to sleeve the engines. Thanx to TFS heads, I had to do another engine because they don't recommend that I get it resleeved either because they say it becomes a weak point.

Get an LPE engine and see. They know you will beat on it like an unwanted stepchild but they give a 2/24000 warranty on their engines. You think they would do that if it could cause the problems you mentioned?

Sounds like that builder doesn't know what he is talking about. Find another builder is my advice.

bestracing

We have built both a 355 and a 388 (.060 over). The 388 was a 2 bolt main motor that we raced for 4 solid years and had one partial race year on it before we pulled the motor. The cylindar walls still look good and I am going to put the short block into my 87 Formula.
When we ran the 388 it had:
chevy pink rods,
Keith Black hyperutectic 10:1 pistons,
Lazer hydralic cam .504/.519 lift and 290/295 duration (240/245@.050),
Cloyes double roller timing chain,
Chevy cast iron 68cc bow tie 18* heads w/2.02,1.90 valves machined to 65cc (total compresion 11:1),
Valve spring pockets cut for 1.550 springs,
Hardened push rods,
1.6 roller rockers,
Weiand Team G Intake manifold,
Holley 800cfm Double Pumper,
Best time in the quarter 11.10, ran 11.12-11.19 typically
We had to rebuild the heads when pulled the motor out of the car.

The 355 that we run right now has:
Chevy froged crank,
chevy pink rods,
TRW 12.1 forged pistons,
Cloyes double roller timing chain,
Crane solid roller cam .604/.614 lift ,
Chevy cast iron 68cc bow tie 18* heads w/2.02,1.90 valves machined to 65cc (total compresion 12.5:1),
Valve spring pockets cut for Cranes 1.550 springs,
Hardened push rods,
1.6 roller rockers on intake 1.5 roller rockers on exhaust,
Weiand Team G Intake manifold,
Holley 800cfm Double Pumper,
Best time in the quarter 10.84, ran 10.90s typically

With the same upper components the 355 had to be built better to beat the 388. The only problem we had with the 388 is traction off the line. It had more torque and it would spin the tires more than the 355 did at the track. I would say that only the 388 motor could have been driven on the street. The 355's cam is way to agressive for the street.

90rocz

The 400's used shorter connecting rods than the 350's which put more side loads on the 400's cyl walls. That's why we reuse our longer 5.7" rods when building a 383, and some even opt for longer 6.0"ers to slow the pistons down even more and further reduce side loads. As long as the block and rods a properly clearanced there's NO problems.
They are safe, strong, and reliable....thus extremely popular.

Cams "today" DON'T need to be LUMPY to make BIG power. Look at the LS1, even with more lift and duration the cam idles good and make excellent power, why,computer design and they opened the LSA like 119*,using roller cams, and playing with the "Intake Closing" event of the cam.(ramp design)
You can have your cake and eat it too now...well, most of it.

Know the limitations of you valvetrain,with some modding, and cam it accordingly.

Chris`s85Z28

Well I talked to another engine builder today he makes race engines and he said the 383 is a awsome engine but mine will be a 388 .060" over.

but i might have to resleve a cylinder he said that makes the block stronger not weaker like somone else said.

so I will build a 383 instead

to 5.0L`s, lt-1`s maybe LS-1`s

The reson I want a lumpy cam is because I want a mean idle

but the bad part is the crank is $1300

a cast piece is $400 but I want forged

I`ll fined the parts I want to use then post them
thax again

aklim

It was years ago and I forgot the reason. I know that LPE said they don't do that and would not recommend doing that for some reason or other. I thought it was because it made it weaker or gave it some sort of problem.

Chris`s85Z28

here`s a list of parts I want to use

350 4 bolt main block .060 over might have to resleve a cylinder I`m not sure yet

Eagle Esp 4340 forged steel crank 3.750" stroke
Chevy 5.7" pink rods
Dura bond coated cam bearings
Clevite77 V-series rod and main bearings
TRW forged dome pistons .100" dome .060" over
Total seal gapless rings
Mr gasket ultra seal gaskets
Comp cams Xtreme energy cam

Advertised Duration @.050 Lift
in ex in ex in ex
300 306 248 254 .562 .580

Retro fit roller lifters
Renegade gear drive
Morso high volume oil pump
Morso kick out oil pan
Arp bolts
Holley Competition fuel pump 6.5 8 psi 110 gph
Chevy crome timing chain cover

top end
Afr 195 heads (maybe I have no clue how much they are)
Comp cams high energy push rods and guid plates
Weiand X-celerator or team G
Holley 4500 Dominator hp carb 750 cfm street
K&N 14/3" air filter
1 1/2 headmann long tube headers
Chevrolet chrome dress up kit
So tell me what you think any any changes I should make
I hope thats good for 400hp
sorry about the book but theres alot of parts to an engine