Metaldrgn

I have a friend who is selling a 350 crate engine with heads for $400(he bought it new in '95, and it's got a 2-piece rear main seal and flat lifters which is what my '85 305 uses) and I just wanted to make sure there wouldn't be any surprizes while trying to do it. For starters there is a plugged hold on the right on the 350 and on mine that's where the knock sensor is. Should they be the same size thread? The coolant temp sensor on the front of the block, is it located in the block or the intake? Is that a good deal?

TheGreatJ

It's a direct bolt-in. The coolant port at the bottom of the block is the same thread pitch all the way back to the late 60's, and the CTS is in the intake so it's not an issue. Your tranny will bolt right up, although you'll need a 350 flexplate or flywheel. Your oilpan should also go right on as well as all the belt-driven accessories. Make sure it has straight-plug heads so your current exhaust will work.

If it's a running engine in good condition (i.e. no rod knock, good oil pressure, etc.) I'd say $400 is a pretty good deal. How many miles are on it? It may be a good idea to pull the slugs and re-ring it while you have it out.

Metaldrgn

that's another question I had was do I need the 350 starter then because of the different flexplate? I remember with the first camaro that I was going to buy here didn't have a starter and had a 305 and the guy selling it bought a 350 starter from autozone or where ever and said it didn't work. Was too short or something. He said he would give it to me if I needed it though so I'm not worried.

what do you mean by straight-plug heads? This should be for a 85 or older model engine, would that tell you anything? I forgot to write down the casting number on the heads (they aren't on the block), but he said he would call me once he got home and give it to me.

Metaldrgn

casting number is 89417989. IU take it that's aftermarket so I'm probably not going to find out anything about it?

V8Rumble

Hey, congrats on the nice find! Chevy small-block heads have two main spark-plug configurations - straight, & angle-plug. As I recall, you can tell the straight-plug heads by the fact that the spark plugs go in at 90 degrees perpendicular to the axis of the crank- or camshaft. (In other words, if the car is facing north, the plugs are pointing east & west.)

Angle-plug heads on the other hand have the spark plugs inserted at a different angle (hence the name), but I don't know what that angle is - I'd guess that it's something on the order of 70* or so...

Oh, and you can look up Chevy factory head & block casting numbers at Mortec.com

Hope that helps!

Metaldrgn

I'm also kinda lucky because I remember someone telling me about a month ago that they had a stroker crank just laying around so I am going to try and pick that up too and get a good cam for it. Should I get ARP bolts for the connecting rods and a stretch gauge(worth the money)? Are new bearing in order? Should I just get the rod bearings or the whole set? Sounds like it's a low milage engine. From the way it sounds, the rings are sealing nicely, should I still get new rings? If so what's better: Plasma, moly, or plasma moly?

Metaldrgn

nm ignore this post...

Metaldrgn

yea it has straight plugs. I am gooing to call around to find some prices on a good 5 angle valve job and 2.02/1.60 valves. The only problem is the heads have a 74cc (?not sure, could be 64 or 76) combustion chamber which brings the compression rating to a low 8.5:1.

He said the 305 heads might be good to put on it. Is that a good idea? I found that with a 58cc had I would get a 10.12:1 compression.

EDIT:
It's casting number is actually 33417369...90-up (but built like an 85)...350..........Gen.I Goodwrench crate motor,"Hecho en Mexico", 76cc . Still good though.

Metaldrgn

heads completly done. Fully ported and valve seats cut. They shaved 0.006" off the block mating surface. They look brand new and it just happened that I didn't go over the intake port with anything more than a course bit from Standard Abrasives, but the shot peening (I think that's what they did) and the spraypainting the heads made them quite smooth.

Quick question about what pistons I should use though. I've got my LT1 pistons here sitting in a bag and I was wondering if I should use them instead of the ones that are on. The crate engine has cast aluminum (with silicon) pistons and the LT1 has Hyperuetic pistons (same thing or silicon mixed with steel?). Anyhow the rods on the LT1 are the notorious "pink" rods that I hear are so crappy and the ones from the crate engine are powdered metal. So basically I was thinking of swapping the pistons and connecting rods because I tore the 350 crate apart so I could put some ARP bolts in the connecting rods to try and further prevent engine failure ebcause I saw a few small video clips of ppl who had that happen and it scared me into doing it . Anyhow the piston pin to top appear the same. Only major difference is in the skirt hangs down noticably farther on the crate engine and the LT1s piston adds a few more CCs to the chamber from the outside being raised with no big relief like the other one has. Also the secondary ring is closer to the primary ont he LT1 and is thinner. Is that a bad idea to have on gen I's?

DevilsAddvocate

Just throw your 305 flywheel/flexplate onto the 350 and you'll be good. They are both internally balanced so the flywheel should be a 0 balance piece on both and you can reuse the same starter you have now.

Metaldrgn

I'm getting the 350 flexplate along with the starter so I'm not worried about that. Just connecting rods... Biggest thing I am worried about is that secondary ring because it's thinner and closer to the primary. Is this bad for a gen I?

DevilsAddvocate

I have a set of 16 ARP 8740 connecting rod bolts ill sell ya for 35 shipped. Brand new never used.

Metaldrgn

thanks but I already bought some. 134-6003

meant to say he giving me the flexpalte and starter free..