3rd brake light issues.
#1
3rd brake light issues.
Hello, the 87IROCZ I picked up has the 3rd brake light in the spoiler. Anyway, I've replaced all the bulbs, NAPA says they are the right ones, but they differ slightly from the originals. Despite having power coming into the 5 bulb assembly, it does not light. With the lights out, it has power, but not with them in. Would I be correct in assuming that the bulbs are wrong?
(Does anyone know what the correct number would be?)
The fog lights do not work either. With the switch turned on, there is no power at the connector. What is the next thing to test? The switch? Is there a common point of failure in that circuit?
(Does anyone know what the correct number would be?)
The fog lights do not work either. With the switch turned on, there is no power at the connector. What is the next thing to test? The switch? Is there a common point of failure in that circuit?
#3
Re: 3rd brake light issues.
Originally posted by 2camaros
Hello, the 87IROCZ I picked up has the 3rd brake light in the spoiler. Anyway, I've replaced all the bulbs, NAPA says they are the right ones, but they differ slightly from the originals. Despite having power coming into the 5 bulb assembly, it does not light. With the lights out, it has power, but not with them in. Would I be correct in assuming that the bulbs are wrong?
(Does anyone know what the correct number would be?)
The fog lights do not work either. With the switch turned on, there is no power at the connector. What is the next thing to test? The switch? Is there a common point of failure in that circuit?
Hello, the 87IROCZ I picked up has the 3rd brake light in the spoiler. Anyway, I've replaced all the bulbs, NAPA says they are the right ones, but they differ slightly from the originals. Despite having power coming into the 5 bulb assembly, it does not light. With the lights out, it has power, but not with them in. Would I be correct in assuming that the bulbs are wrong?
(Does anyone know what the correct number would be?)
The fog lights do not work either. With the switch turned on, there is no power at the connector. What is the next thing to test? The switch? Is there a common point of failure in that circuit?
As for you fog lights you do know that the parking lights have to be on before they will work,right? If they don't then check the connection at the head-light switch,and then look for broken or disconneted wires ,and burned-out bulbs/fuses. Also one last thing don't handle any of these bulbs with your bare hands ,that is almost instant death for them. Good Luck !
#5
The spoiler bulb sockets didn't have the corrosion preventing grease in them and the sockets sometimes corroded up, try cleaning them...also clean the contact on the hatch and the pads where they contact on the trunk edge. If the hatch has been "slammed" alot, the hatch spring loaded contact might have broken the plastic and needs replaced..
#7
Re: Re: 3rd brake light issues.
Originally posted by IROC-T
I don't think your problem is the bulbs,as I have been useing 20wAC bulbs in mine for eight years and they work just fine and don't burn out as fast and are like half the price. I would check for a bad ground and make sure your deck is closed when you check it for power.
As for you fog lights you do know that the parking lights have to be on before they will work,right? If they don't then check the connection at the head-light switch,and then look for broken or disconneted wires ,and burned-out bulbs/fuses. Also one last thing don't handle any of these bulbs with your bare hands ,that is almost instant death for them. Good Luck !
I don't think your problem is the bulbs,as I have been useing 20wAC bulbs in mine for eight years and they work just fine and don't burn out as fast and are like half the price. I would check for a bad ground and make sure your deck is closed when you check it for power.
As for you fog lights you do know that the parking lights have to be on before they will work,right? If they don't then check the connection at the head-light switch,and then look for broken or disconneted wires ,and burned-out bulbs/fuses. Also one last thing don't handle any of these bulbs with your bare hands ,that is almost instant death for them. Good Luck !
According to me and a guy that has been a mechanic for 6 years there is absolutely no reason why it should not work
As for the fog lights, yes I know the parking lights need to be on. I really have done only the most basic troubleshooting on them so far because of the rear brake light issue.
If all else fails, I think I'm going to buy another middle spoiler section, bondo that light in, and paint it to pass the inspection. This state is just retarded, if you have the 2 required functional brake lights, why do you need a 3rd?
#8
Originally posted by 90rocz
The spoiler bulb sockets didn't have the corrosion preventing grease in them and the sockets sometimes corroded up, try cleaning them...also clean the contact on the hatch and the pads where they contact on the trunk edge. If the hatch has been "slammed" alot, the hatch spring loaded contact might have broken the plastic and needs replaced..
The spoiler bulb sockets didn't have the corrosion preventing grease in them and the sockets sometimes corroded up, try cleaning them...also clean the contact on the hatch and the pads where they contact on the trunk edge. If the hatch has been "slammed" alot, the hatch spring loaded contact might have broken the plastic and needs replaced..
#10
If you remove the bulbs and can measure voltage with a volt meter but it won't light the bulbs, it sounds like a "high resistance" contact. Meaning, a volt meter wont draw much current so the voltage tests as good. But a bulb draws much more current and somewhere there is resistance that is limiting the current it will handle (which causes a voltage drop and no light). I'd suspect the contacts on the hatch are dirty or not making a real good connection (oxidized, etc).
My thoughts.
My thoughts.
#11
I took the light assembly and jumped it to a battery, all lights worked. Aparently I have a bad ground somewhere. Yes most states dont care about that 3rd light, but Delaware is a whole differant bag of apples, trust me.
I fixed the emmissions issues, I might try to get it reinspected today and hope they dont notice/care. Failing that, I might just run a ground wire to the light to pass inspection and solve the problem later.
I fixed the emmissions issues, I might try to get it reinspected today and hope they dont notice/care. Failing that, I might just run a ground wire to the light to pass inspection and solve the problem later.
#12
Originally posted by 2camaros
I took the light assembly and jumped it to a battery, all lights worked. Aparently I have a bad ground somewhere. Yes most states dont care about that 3rd light, but Delaware is a whole differant bag of apples, trust me.
I fixed the emmissions issues, I might try to get it reinspected today and hope they dont notice/care. Failing that, I might just run a ground wire to the light to pass inspection and solve the problem later.
I took the light assembly and jumped it to a battery, all lights worked. Aparently I have a bad ground somewhere. Yes most states dont care about that 3rd light, but Delaware is a whole differant bag of apples, trust me.
I fixed the emmissions issues, I might try to get it reinspected today and hope they dont notice/care. Failing that, I might just run a ground wire to the light to pass inspection and solve the problem later.
#13
Originally posted by trackbird
Now, do you measure 12 V and ground at the contact plate in the rear? If so, I'd suspect dirty contacts. They are touching, but not making a good connection.
Now, do you measure 12 V and ground at the contact plate in the rear? If so, I'd suspect dirty contacts. They are touching, but not making a good connection.
#14
You should be able to re-ground the wire from the plate in the rear just by removing the back panel and hooking it to the chassis somewhere. You may fix it that way and save having to do anything temporary.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#15
Originally posted by trackbird
You should be able to re-ground the wire from the plate in the rear just by removing the back panel and hooking it to the chassis somewhere. You may fix it that way and save having to do anything temporary.
Good luck!
You should be able to re-ground the wire from the plate in the rear just by removing the back panel and hooking it to the chassis somewhere. You may fix it that way and save having to do anything temporary.
Good luck!