5 speed conversion
#2
I can do one in about 12 hours of work (give or take). I converted my '89 Formula (and then put a t56 in an 84 Z).
Pull the trans, converter, and flywheel.
Remove the console, auto shifter, unbolt the neutral safety switch from the shifter.
Remove the 4 bolts from the back of the brake booster (that hold the pedal assembly in), don't forget the bolt that is in the top of the pedal bracket (bolted vertically into the dash).
Hang the new pedals (remember the brake pedal changes too). There is a "U" shaped bolt that holds in the master cylinder in. There are 2 supports that bolt to the end of the pedal bracket. Swing those brackets to the firewall and use the "U" shaped bolt to mark the bolt holes. Then drill a hole right between the bolt holes for the master cylinder.
Install the master cylinder from under the hood, bolt everything down. Install the transmission. Drill a hole above the shifter mount, open the hole enough to drop on the shifter, slide the rubber boot over the shifter, mark the floor for the mounting holes for the rubber boot, and scribe the edge of the boot. Remove the boot and shifter, lower the trans (cover the shifter mount to keep shavings out of it) and cut a hole about 3/4 to 1 inch in from the line you scribed around the boot.
Install shifter, boot, console, crossmember, etc.
You can leave the neutral safety switch in park (disables the EGR valve), or hook it to the clutch switch (to only let the car start with the clutch in). Find the reverse light leads and hook them to the reverse switch on the side of the trans (before installing the console...sorry, forgot).
Install crossmember, torque arm, driveshaft (stock one fits), etc.
It is not hard.
Have fun!
P.S. My car went from an auto with 3.42 gears to a 5 speed with 3.23's and was almost 1 second faster at the strip after the swap.
Pull the trans, converter, and flywheel.
Remove the console, auto shifter, unbolt the neutral safety switch from the shifter.
Remove the 4 bolts from the back of the brake booster (that hold the pedal assembly in), don't forget the bolt that is in the top of the pedal bracket (bolted vertically into the dash).
Hang the new pedals (remember the brake pedal changes too). There is a "U" shaped bolt that holds in the master cylinder in. There are 2 supports that bolt to the end of the pedal bracket. Swing those brackets to the firewall and use the "U" shaped bolt to mark the bolt holes. Then drill a hole right between the bolt holes for the master cylinder.
Install the master cylinder from under the hood, bolt everything down. Install the transmission. Drill a hole above the shifter mount, open the hole enough to drop on the shifter, slide the rubber boot over the shifter, mark the floor for the mounting holes for the rubber boot, and scribe the edge of the boot. Remove the boot and shifter, lower the trans (cover the shifter mount to keep shavings out of it) and cut a hole about 3/4 to 1 inch in from the line you scribed around the boot.
Install shifter, boot, console, crossmember, etc.
You can leave the neutral safety switch in park (disables the EGR valve), or hook it to the clutch switch (to only let the car start with the clutch in). Find the reverse light leads and hook them to the reverse switch on the side of the trans (before installing the console...sorry, forgot).
Install crossmember, torque arm, driveshaft (stock one fits), etc.
It is not hard.
Have fun!
P.S. My car went from an auto with 3.42 gears to a 5 speed with 3.23's and was almost 1 second faster at the strip after the swap.
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