bestmom

I have this Z28 since '88. Had the engine overhauled about 10,000 miles ago. About 8 months ago it started dying during normal driving. No warning, just would lose power and check engine light comes on. It will start right back up, but then will keep dying anytime I slow down. This happens maybe once or twice a month, the rest of the time it seems to run fine. Have had so many "guesses" to the problem, replaced the broken steering column, 02 sensor, control module, rotor, wires, plugs, alternator; each time thinking the problem is fixed until the next time it starts dying. I did replace the MAF and computer about 3 years ago, however unhooking the MAF doesn't seem to affect this problem. Have had scope hooked up, and once the VIN was entered came back "mis-matched computer". If it truly is the wrong computer, wouldn't I have had problems when I first replaced it? Another problem I have noticed for a couple of years which has worsened in the last year is very poor gas mileage and a raw gas smell from the exhaust. I would really appreciate any suggestions as I don't have the money to keep replacing parts unnecessarily. I guess I forgot to mention that it's a 305 with TPI.

[This message has been edited by bestmom (edited September 06, 2002).]

aklim

If it keeps dying out when you slow down or stop, in this case, first thing I would do is check for vacuum leaks. Spray carb cleaner at hoses and joints and see if the idle changes. Next, take off the TB and take off the IAC. Remove the thingy the IAC is screwed onto and clean it with brake cleaner. When everything is cleaned, reassemble and start the car. Check that your base idle speed is correct and then set your TPS.

stanghunter211

How about your catalytic converter? Might be plugged. I have seen cars to where they would hardly turn over because it was so jambed full of crap! Just a thought

Will

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'86 Z-28 305 c.i. LG4 165 hp E.T. 16.7 @ 82 mph on radials
Rochester QuadraJet 4bbl,
Flowmaster 80 series, Chrome Tips,
Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner,
K&N Filter,
Michellin P215/65/R15 X-Radial Plus,

Pioneer 4"x6" dash,
Pioneer 6"x9" rear,
Alpine 8" Type S in bandpass box,
MTX Thunder 4202 Amp,
Sony 4000X- x-Plode Deck 50w x4

Soon to be sporting a 350 HO somg legal conversion kit. 308 hp Along with Edelbrock Headers, Edelbrock Performer EGR Intake, and 3" Flowmaster Exhaust with DMH Electric Cutout!!!

350Z

...my car did a similar thing a few months ago...finally it quit one day and would not start....I checked the ignition system and found out that there was no spark.....a mechanic told me that there is a "gizmo" in the distributor that was prolly bad (somthing about a spark reference module...)....I put in the new distributor and it fixed it...hope this helps..

350Z

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1989 Iroc Z aka "POS"
Mods: 350 w/AFR190's,ZZ9, Crane 1.5 Gold RR's, Miniram, 58mm tb, 3.27's, Hooker shorties, Custom 3in Y pipe, Hooker Cat Back, Cat (at the bottom of some River in Ohio), MSD 6A, Ram Air, K&N's, Pullies, SFC's, Hotchkis STB, T56, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, Pro 5.0

VERY NEAR FUTURE: 30lb SVO Injectors, 4.10's

Audio Mods: Hooker Exhaust

Exterior Mods: Rubber deposits from Dragway 42 and River City Raceway on both rear fenders.

stanghunter211

Thats another one. when those go bad, its over. I've known them to just go out too, like on the freeway. You might wanna look into that. Its cheap and easy to replace!

Will

aklim

Boy! You paid royally for that one. All you needed was an ignition module not a whole new distributor. That is unless your distributor was bad too.

citizendan1st

hello evryone,
would the ignition module start acting up when the car heated up....im expieriencing the same excact problem and i still havent found the answer. i dont drive the car too far any more because of it..
any more guesses?ive got a tpi 305 in an 88 iroc z,new sensorsand tune up...the only thing i havent really tested is the fuel,although i have changed the filter...how can i cheaply test the fuel pressure?
thanks again guys...
Dan

aklim

It could act up when it is hot. they aren't too expensive tho.

Cheap way to test fuel pressure is to borrow a gauge from a mechanic friend or buy one. They are under $30, I think. Screw it into the schraeder valve on the fuel rail (right side) which is covered by a plastic cap you unscrew to remove. With the car running and the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator removed, see what it reads. It should be 45 psi or better.

stanghunter211

usually when those ignition modules go..... THEY GO. Not really a lot of warning, but I guess some might experience this. I thought I had the same thing when my car shut down on the freeway at 75 mph. We checked anc checked and thought that was it, but I still had spark, turned out to be the fuel pump. But at least mine isn't "in-tank," those suck!

Will

------------------
'86 Z-28 305 c.i. LG4 165 hp E.T. 16.7 @ 82 mph on radials
Rochester QuadraJet 4bbl,
Flowmaster 80 series, Chrome Tips,
Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner,
K&N Filter,
Michellin P215/65/R15 X-Radial Plus,

Pioneer 4"x6" dash,
Pioneer 6"x9" rear,
Alpine 8" Type S in bandpass box,
MTX Thunder 4202 Amp,
Sony 4000X- x-Plode Deck 50w x4

Soon to be sporting a 350 HO somg legal conversion kit. 308 hp Along with Edelbrock Headers, Edelbrock Performer EGR Intake, and 3" Flowmaster Exhaust with DMH Electric Cutout!!!