90CamConv

I changed out my battery last week due to the old one died and was almost 10 years old. The new battery lasted 3 days before the charge was gone so I had it recharged and was going to run a diagnostic on the electrical system with my brother-in-law. The car started with the new battery, no problem. We drove it to the back and turned it off. He got his volt meter and attached it to the battery posts to check the battery output. The battery was good. He then told me to start the car with the volt meter attached so he could see the drain. When I turned the key there was a slight noise as if the car was turning over and then silence. The indicator lights were on but there was no cranking sound of the starter. At first I thought the VATS was the problem so I told him we should wait 10 minutes for it to reset. During this time he removed the battery fuse to check it. Everything was fine there, after 10 minutes and now 24 hours the engine doesn't start. There is still a strong charge on the battery but when the key is turned there isn't even a clicking noise of the starter. Any ideas?

Rice Killer87

if the battery voltage is good (near 14.6V) and its not turning over,sounds to me its a connection problem or the VATS (like u had said). make sure the ground cable is clean and has a good ground, and that there is no corrosion on the connections anywhere.

start there,hope that helps

90CamConv

Is there anywhere online to find an engine diagram showing where the VATS is located?

Rice Killer87

try this for testing the VATS:
http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml

i dont know where to go for the diagrams,sorry

aklim

If you cover up the resistor of the VATS, the gauges will move but no sound will be heard at all. The fuel pump will not cycle and the starter will not crank. This is not a gradual process.

I would check your grounds and wire to the starter cable to make sure it is getting 12V. Try taking a known good positive cable and hook it to the starter and battery and see what happens.

90rocz

Yeah, it sounds like a bad connection to me too. Either at the starter or battery(large cables), clean the ends and securely tighten them. If you can turn or move the cable, it's NOT tight enough..
If the connections are good, I'd say bad starter, you can pull it (starter) and have it tested at a parts store for free..

aklim

Take that cable and change it to a fresh one. You could have all but one strand broken and a resistance test would tell you there is 0 ohms resistance which makes it look good. Unless you have a VAT40 machine to test it, I would just buy a new cable and see if it works better. Also clean the part the cable attaches to.

greezemonkey

I`d hit the starter with a big ******* hammer while someone else is holding the key in the crank position!

aklim

When you turn the key to "RUN" and don't crank it, you should hear the pump cycle on to pressurize the rails. Do you hear that? If you are not sure, attach a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and see if the pressure spikes.

RSsleepr

The VATS module is (at least it is/was on my 89 RS) located behind the dash. It's mounted to an upright support right in the middle of the dash. I'm not sure how hard it is to get to if that is the sole reason you're getting into the dash. I removed mine when I stripped the interior of my car and rewired it. It was buried in there.

Chevy starters have always been known for their "heat soak" problems, so I would (personally) take a peak at the starter solenoid as it's a common point of failure. Of course that wouldn't necessarily explain why your battery is being drained.

Here's a quick check I do when troubleshooting start problems:

Turn on headlights. Turn the ignition to crank.

If the headlights dim while trying to crank then your starter solenoid is closing and all associated functions before the starter are allowing your engine to start; equals bad starter.

If the headlights do not dim while trying to crank then the starter solenoid is NOT closing. Check for voltage at the starter solenoid. No voltage = bad battery cables/ connections. Voltage = control interruption. Check for open conductor/loose connection in ignition circuit first, check clutch safety switch or gear selector switch second, check VATS, and ignition cylinder last.

This is of course the method I use, other methods may be simpler/easier.

As far as what may be draining your battery, well that is another can of worms. Chances are whatever is inhibiting your engine from starting is also causing a drain on the battery. But that isn't always the case. If you're still experiencing a drain after you've fixed your start problem, I'd suggest starting at the alternator (a short to ground inside the alternator in some cases will still allow the alternator to produce voltage while the engine is running but will drain the battery when the engine is off).

Good luck troubleshooting. And by the way, have someone confirm this technique before getting started, I'm not an expert.

90CamConv

Thanks for all the replies. They are helpful and I am using them to help determine the problem. Hey Monkey.... how hard would you reccomend?

greezemonkey

Pretty Hard I use a 48oz bluepoint ballpeen, swung in the position that will administer the most force, If you can get the car off the ground you`ll get a much better swing on it, of course a dead blow filled with bird shot always gives a nice flat force full strike

IROC-T

You may be on the right track here,the altenator drain back could even be putting a consant load on the solinoid causeing it to go out. So I would test both areas,the solinoid and the altenator.