Dirtbik3r

I'm in the process of ordering a Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain and I have two questions. The first one is should I get an Iron or Billet Steel Cam sprocket . The second question I have is what should I set my crank and camshaft advance/retard to ? It is a street car so I am unsure. Should I leave it at the factore "zero?" Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The engine is a Gen I sbc(like a 92 camaro 350):
hydraulic roller - lt4 hot cam 218/228 .525"
sdpc vortec heads (they don't flow like vortec's )
Holley Stealth Ram 30lb svo injectors
scorpion 1.6 full roller rockers
comp cams behive springs
Hooker Long Tube headers

rskrause

To install it correctly, you need to "degree" in the cam.

Rich

Dirtbik3r

I have a degree wheel and plan on using it.

Dirtbik3r

But that didn't really answer my question...

You can use offset bushing to advance or retard crankshaft timing in relation to the camshaft. If both valves are closed and #1 is at TDC, you're at zero degrees cam timing. Now if you wanted to lets say open the intake valve 2 degrees BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER (advance), would that benefit me with my setup?? I know drag cars have retarded or advanced cam timing weather its an n/a or has forced induction. I just want a little clarity on this subject.

Would there be any benefit in opening the intake valve a litte earlier to increase the combustion chamber's air density? How does the theory for this work? It must have something to do with camshaft profiles in relation to TDC.

Also, if anyone would like to chime in on the difference between billet steal and a cast cam gear..

FASTFATBOY

What you are really doing is changing CAM timing in relation to the crankshaft...you kinda use the crank as the constant at "TDC" or "0"


Advancing or retarding a cam only really moves the power around, rarely makes any more power, just moves the power band up or down.


How would opening the valve that small amount earlier make the charge any cooler? It's just changing the event in relation to the crankshaft, or where the piston is in the stroke. Getting a cooler air charge starts with getting air from outside the engine compartment.

Cast gear is just that a cast piece of steel, think rought iron fencing. Billet gear is well Billet..think a Snap On combination wrench type steel...the kind of steel when you drop it on the floor it has a high pitched ring to it(Not exactly but you get the idea). Hope that is the type of explanation you were looking for. If not many more will chime in.


David

Dirtbik3r

Thanks for clearing that up FASTFATBOY. So I wouldn't know where my power band area is until I get on the dyno here at school. For now i'll set it the valve timing at TDC. At least I'll retain a stock idle.

I want to make sure I get a descent timing chain. I was going to go with the Cloyes Billet Double Roller part number: (It's like $75-$80)CLO-9-3500TX9

Does this sound like it will fit correctly?

And... what kind of fitment issues will I run into? Oil delivery?

1racerdude

The only thing ya change is the ICL and valve timing.
Most cams come with a 4* advance that should be left in when it is dot to dot.
The only thing ya need to degree is that the cam spects the same as the card.
You will have to clearance the timing cover.

IROC-T

This might be better answered in the Advanced Tech section. You might contact the cam maker and ask what they would recomend. As for cast or billet, cast is just that it is cast in the desiered shape from molten iron,forged(stamped) would be stronger. Billet is milled out of a solid block of (whatever) metal to the desired shape.