converter help
#4
I think they "usually" rate off the shelf parts like that to work with a "mild" 350. What kind of power are you making? Do some searches on how converters work and you'll see why it isn't working properly. It's not really anyones fault really just a bad mismatch probably. I wonder what return policy B&M has for converters. As far as getting a new one, get one from a company that will work with you and has a good name(not like B&M doesn't but you're in a wierd situation). Goodluck man.
I was Pee'd when mine stalled at 4 grand since I had a stock cam..haha but that's my fault on a clear mismatch.
I was Pee'd when mine stalled at 4 grand since I had a stock cam..haha but that's my fault on a clear mismatch.
#8
Originally posted by 1984camaroz28
well i hold the break down and give it some gas and it only goes to like 1500rpms.... sumit says it stalles from 2800 to 3k
well i hold the break down and give it some gas and it only goes to like 1500rpms.... sumit says it stalles from 2800 to 3k
A better way would be to use the flash stall method. Basically from a dead stop just mash on the gas and watch the rpms where the car will start to move. If the converter and motor components are matched right, it should "flash" to its rated stall speed.
I run a 3500 stall converter on the street. Using the foot brake method it would break the tires loose at around 1800. If I flash it, it will come to around 3200 as long as I have decent traction.
#9
Originally posted by IROCZZ3
The method you're using is called foot brake stall and is really not accurate because the motor will overpower the brakes.
A better way would be to use the flash stall method. Basically from a dead stop just mash on the gas and watch the rpms where the car will start to move. If the converter and motor components are matched right, it should "flash" to its rated stall speed.
I run a 3500 stall converter on the street. Using the foot brake method it would break the tires loose at around 1800. If I flash it, it will come to around 3200 as long as I have decent traction.
The method you're using is called foot brake stall and is really not accurate because the motor will overpower the brakes.
A better way would be to use the flash stall method. Basically from a dead stop just mash on the gas and watch the rpms where the car will start to move. If the converter and motor components are matched right, it should "flash" to its rated stall speed.
I run a 3500 stall converter on the street. Using the foot brake method it would break the tires loose at around 1800. If I flash it, it will come to around 3200 as long as I have decent traction.
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