kandied91z

yep, in most cases. i think i'm going to go with the walbro 340. anyone know if there is anything higher? seems that roughly 600 is the most power i can get out of these without sumping the tank or going fuel cell.

thanks guys!

zulater91

i have the Granatelli fuel pump and it works great

Chris Ja

Jeff is looking for something that can handle 600 plus RWHP. So I take it because you said the ATI inline pump didn't hold up you installed the supercharger. The Holley is only good to 500RWHP from what I understand.. Trying to sneak that supercharger in on us are you? In your case I would go with the Aeromotive fuel pump controller, pump, filter and regulator. It will read your fuel needs and adjust the voltage to the pump and can support up to 1300 RWHP. To put a system like this together is about $800.00 with tubing. Add labor to that and you are looking at over a grand. That is not bad with the amount of money you have tied up in your car.
Aeromotive Fuel pump part #AEl-11101 $289.95
Aeromotive Fuel pump controler #AEl-16302 $189.95
Aeromotive Fuel pressure reg #AEl-13101 $129.95
Aeromotive fuel filter Red Anodized #AEl-12301 $79.95
This is Summit Racing prices and part #.
You know if you need to know something to check with me and stop sneaking around.

kandied91z

i'm not sneaking around chris........

no the pumps couldn't support it n/a? i think alot had to do with the faulty ati pump and the fact that it isn't free flowing so whenever it would quit the main intank pump was working overtime. once i put the new setup together they just couldn't take it.

got it all sorted out now so it's all good......thanks everyone.

Chuck!

When you put an inline pump on, what do you do with the pump already in the tank?

fly89gta

Walbro 340 with the hotwire kit from Jack at Racetronix

Hotwire kit

His kits are full plug and play, nice quality stuff

kandied91z

my walbro came with all the necessary plug n' play....no need to pay for an additional plug?

when using an in-line like i did you keep the stock in tank location pump. the inline works as a booster for backup under serious load like forced induction or supercharger....

personally after what happened i wouldn't bother using them though....you can't really know when they are working or not to properly guage it.

Willie

Start with the Walbro 340. And if for some reason it's not enough, add a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump. Rich Krause runs his 4th gen with dual power adders (over 700rwhp) with this setup. And that's with stock lines.

kandied91z

is it free flowing? the last time i new their model was identical in design to ati, nos, and the many other in-line boosters.

i won't run any inline "booster" again...unless maybe it's free flowing if that's even possible.

i believe if you need that much your better off running a separate fuel system. it's almost the same price anyway and then your completely secure.

Willie

The Boost-a-Pump is NOT a fuel pump. It's an electronic box that regulates voltage to your pump. It has the ability to raise voltage under boost to over 17 volts, but is variable, depending on where you set the rotary ****. Go to:

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm

I have it and it works wonders.

Willie

kandied91z

i see........looks interesting. it's nice that it isn't actually inline. that way if it isn't a constant strain.

Willie

Here's a chronological account of my experience on this subject.

I use a GN in-tank and a Vortech T-rex in-line. When I replaced my "stock" Superfueler injectors with three 75#ers, my fuel pressure gauge started to flutter around 6-psig, then pressure would start to drop around 8-psig. The recommendation to me was to drop the pair of pumps and go with a Walbro 340 and a BAP if needed (but probably not). Notice this is the same advice I gave you earlier?

Knowing that replacing an in-tank pump was far more labor intensive than installing a BAP, I decided to buy the BAP. With the rotary **** turned up to 25 percent (50 percent is max), I watched my fuel pressure under boost. I got it to 10-psig without even a hint of flutter. So for now, I'm going to live in my pair of pumps until I'm able to gather data under higher boost -- I can't right now because of last week's rear gear installation -- need ~500 miles to break them in. When I'm able to apply more boost, I plan on it. If the BAP is sufficient, I won't be replacing my pumps (obviously).

Not only does the BAP raise voltage under boost, but it acts as a regulator so the pump(s) sees constant voltage, regardless of electrical load, such as turning on the A/C, running both coolant fans, etc.

I took the BAP installation one step further. I added a digital voltmeter that reads voltage at the fuel pump. With it, I can literally "see" that voltage remains constant under normal driving conditions. Under boost, I can see the exact (higher) voltage my pumps see. Kind of cool.

Willie

kandied91z

very smart idea.

LT1Powered85Z

I have a real nice high quality, very reliable Bosch intank pump capable of providing fuel for engines generally up to about 500hp.

Good price too. That's what I would recommend. These external and inline pumps just don't cut it. An inline pump has to "pull" the fuel through the intank pump and it's just not a good set-up, IMO. Doesn't make sense...

But after reading further...heh...I see you've already made your choice. Good luck with it.

Eric

Zepher

my in-line Holley pump pulls only gas from the tank. My car was carbed with no pump in the tank, so when I went FI, I just added this pump in-line.
http://www.transamws6.com/pics/05-2003/fuelpump1.jpg

http://www.transamws6.com/pics/05-2003/fuelpump2.jpg