hello everyone...please help..im getting desperate...
09-14-2002, 01:39 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: orlndo, florida usa
Posts: 29
hello everyone...please help..im getting desperate...
ok ladies and gentlemen here goes,
i have an 88 iroc z with a 305 tpi that replaced the blown 350..
all 305 stuff....injectors,comp..ect...
heres my problem...when it gets to about 150 and 190 degrees it starts to fluctuate in idle speed suddenely and tries to die,and when i drive its runs ok but sluggish..but at 2500 to 3000 in fourth gear it tries to die on me.....the problem gets worse as it gets hotter ..and on a side note i have ac and a stock therm,in florida summer in stop and go should it get as hot as 240-250?waterpump is good,as radiator,everything new in at leasta year,...but on the the idle issue..when it gets bad enough to try to die on my at every light the check engine comes on and it runs by itself but it feels like ive lost a cylnder...once its cool again its ok..and at night its not too bad ,im thinking for temperature reasons?the computer tells me its the icm but ive replaced that and adjusted it accordingly..along with the tps,both temp sensors,checked everything else...but i dont know how to check fuel pressure with out a meter?...well if youve read this far thanks ....any help would be greatly appreciateed
ps
sorry for the book but i had to explain in detail..
i have an 88 iroc z with a 305 tpi that replaced the blown 350..
all 305 stuff....injectors,comp..ect...
heres my problem...when it gets to about 150 and 190 degrees it starts to fluctuate in idle speed suddenely and tries to die,and when i drive its runs ok but sluggish..but at 2500 to 3000 in fourth gear it tries to die on me.....the problem gets worse as it gets hotter ..and on a side note i have ac and a stock therm,in florida summer in stop and go should it get as hot as 240-250?waterpump is good,as radiator,everything new in at leasta year,...but on the the idle issue..when it gets bad enough to try to die on my at every light the check engine comes on and it runs by itself but it feels like ive lost a cylnder...once its cool again its ok..and at night its not too bad ,im thinking for temperature reasons?the computer tells me its the icm but ive replaced that and adjusted it accordingly..along with the tps,both temp sensors,checked everything else...but i dont know how to check fuel pressure with out a meter?...well if youve read this far thanks ....any help would be greatly appreciateed
ps
sorry for the book but i had to explain in detail..
09-14-2002, 10:15 AM
#2
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,249
Better than the post that goes "I have a problem with my car, it feels sluggish". That tells us nothing.
You replaced the computer. Did you do that or replace the EPROM in it?
Only way to check fuel pressure is with a gauge hooked up to the Schraeder valve in the fuel rail.
You replaced the computer. Did you do that or replace the EPROM in it?
Only way to check fuel pressure is with a gauge hooked up to the Schraeder valve in the fuel rail.
09-14-2002, 11:03 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Duluth, Ga., USA
Posts: 192
I dont know anything about your setup but if you still have the 305 injectors which are 19 pound. I think your blown 350 would be starving for fuel even if you had the right fuel pressure.
Second If you get a check engine light that means the computer will have code telling you whats wrong.
------------------
http://bitchincamaro.no-ip.com 91 RS Camaro 5-speed black w/t-tops 305 TPI
MODS: SLP cold air intake w/K&N, air foil,Accel 19 LB injectors, March aluminum under drive pullies, Alburn pro posi, Aluminum drive shaft, Random Technology 3'' cat-back, 8.5mm MSD wires, 160 thermo, jet fan swich, Custom chip with 91 vette computer, SSBC slotted rotors, optima battery in the rear, BMR adjustable lower control arms and panhard rod, Kenny Brown strut tower brace, TB bypass, no egr, no air
Second If you get a check engine light that means the computer will have code telling you whats wrong.
------------------
http://bitchincamaro.no-ip.com 91 RS Camaro 5-speed black w/t-tops 305 TPI
MODS: SLP cold air intake w/K&N, air foil,Accel 19 LB injectors, March aluminum under drive pullies, Alburn pro posi, Aluminum drive shaft, Random Technology 3'' cat-back, 8.5mm MSD wires, 160 thermo, jet fan swich, Custom chip with 91 vette computer, SSBC slotted rotors, optima battery in the rear, BMR adjustable lower control arms and panhard rod, Kenny Brown strut tower brace, TB bypass, no egr, no air
09-14-2002, 11:13 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: orlndo, florida usa
Posts: 29
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 91RS5speed:
I dont know anything about your setup but if you still have the 305 injectors which are 19 pound. I think your blown 350 would be starving for fuel even if you had the right fuel pressure.
Second If you get a check engine light that means the computer will have code telling you whats wrong.
my apologies..i meant blown as in bloew up,shattered cylinder....um itsd safe to say everything was changed over to 305....
and i forgot to mention that when it started doing this i got the computer to tell me it was the icm...then it said it was the tps...i
didnt check it this time cause im pretty sure its going to say its the icm or it needs adjusting again...i bought both those parts brand new adjusted accordding to several days of research...
as far as the set up its just a stock 305 tpi with 3 inch exaust...removed smog pump...and the standard cheap or free mods...nothing to change it too dramatically....
i not trying to do anything but get it running dependable again...i only have 1500 in it with a new black paint job and of course the matching number block if its even salvagable...
but thanks for any kind of help everyone...
</font>
I dont know anything about your setup but if you still have the 305 injectors which are 19 pound. I think your blown 350 would be starving for fuel even if you had the right fuel pressure.
Second If you get a check engine light that means the computer will have code telling you whats wrong.
my apologies..i meant blown as in bloew up,shattered cylinder....um itsd safe to say everything was changed over to 305....
and i forgot to mention that when it started doing this i got the computer to tell me it was the icm...then it said it was the tps...i
didnt check it this time cause im pretty sure its going to say its the icm or it needs adjusting again...i bought both those parts brand new adjusted accordding to several days of research...
as far as the set up its just a stock 305 tpi with 3 inch exaust...removed smog pump...and the standard cheap or free mods...nothing to change it too dramatically....
i not trying to do anything but get it running dependable again...i only have 1500 in it with a new black paint job and of course the matching number block if its even salvagable...
but thanks for any kind of help everyone...
</font>
09-14-2002, 11:16 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: orlndo, florida usa
Posts: 29
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by aklim:
Better than the post that goes "I have a problem with my car, it feels sluggish". That tells us nothing.
You replaced the computer. Did you do that or replace the EPROM in it?
Only way to check fuel pressure is with a gauge hooked up to the Schraeder valve in the fuel rail.</font>
Better than the post that goes "I have a problem with my car, it feels sluggish". That tells us nothing.
You replaced the computer. Did you do that or replace the EPROM in it?
Only way to check fuel pressure is with a gauge hooked up to the Schraeder valve in the fuel rail.</font>
it ran dam good for what it is..even took it on a 1200 mile trip and took out the tranny..but it still ran great..
im pulling my hair out...
thanks for your help..
------------------
Dan Egger
88 I-Roc Z,repainted black,stock rims,t-tops,tinted
305 tpi(sooner or LATER will get money to rebuild the 350 to 383)
(running embarrising)
right now anyways
several cheap mods...
09-14-2002, 03:52 PM
#6
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,249
Reason I asked is that you have replaced the idle control motor and reset it, etc. Could you have got an EPROM for a manual while you have an auto or vice versa? It would clear up some questions if you took the chip out and asked a dealership what it fit. That is what I suspect tho.
09-14-2002, 09:23 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 1999
Posts: 556
The first thing I'd do, is get 180 or 160 degree stat and a low temp fan switch. Then I'd try some seafoam (that stuff is great!). Replace the O2 sensor, and a tune up. Also pull the TB and clean it up real good with some seafoam deep creep.
------------------
Mario,
White 94 Z28
Yeah I got a few mods
Video
Black 87 IROC-Z
------------------
Mario,
White 94 Z28
Yeah I got a few mods
Video
Black 87 IROC-Z
09-15-2002, 01:20 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: MI
Posts: 2,342
Start with a 180 degree thermostat. It shouldn't be hard to find one at AutoZone or Pep Boys.
If you know anything about electronics, I would suggst wiring your radiator cooling fan(s) to a manual switch inside of th car. It can be done while still using the stock fan relays also, you just need to use the correct wires. Switch the fans on with that 180 thermostat and my car will almost dip below 160 degrees on a HOT day
With the AC on it's at 180 if I had to guess at idle. keep in touch!
------------------
Denny Villemure
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible, 305 TPI, 2.73 Gear, Flowmaster 2 chamber. 15.60 on motor, 14.20 on a 75 shot from NX. Woo hoo!
www.denny.cz28.com
If you know anything about electronics, I would suggst wiring your radiator cooling fan(s) to a manual switch inside of th car. It can be done while still using the stock fan relays also, you just need to use the correct wires. Switch the fans on with that 180 thermostat and my car will almost dip below 160 degrees on a HOT day
With the AC on it's at 180 if I had to guess at idle. keep in touch!------------------
Denny Villemure
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible, 305 TPI, 2.73 Gear, Flowmaster 2 chamber. 15.60 on motor, 14.20 on a 75 shot from NX. Woo hoo!
www.denny.cz28.com
09-15-2002, 08:56 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: orlndo, florida usa
Posts: 29
does the 160 thermastate make that much of a diference?
cause with i believe i have a stock...
it gets as high as 220,240,260 sometimes....
but its new and the pumpis good and the radiator is good and the fans come on at signition....
anything else?
did i mention the bad blow by?
thanks again..
cause with i believe i have a stock...
it gets as high as 220,240,260 sometimes....
but its new and the pumpis good and the radiator is good and the fans come on at signition....
anything else?
did i mention the bad blow by?
thanks again..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post