My cousin said he would sell me a complete 12 bolt for a 100 bucks. How much is it going to cost me to put it in? I haven't looked at it yet but I figure I can just weld LCA brackets on it, the spring perches, and Panhard bracket onto it. And then a mount for the torque arm. It already has 4.10 gears(which is what I want).

Will it work or is there an easier, or cheaper, way to put a 12 bolt in?

------------------
Pix of my rides!
Finally have some pictures of Y2k Vette wheels, motor, etc.

*1991 Camaro RS !LO3
8.65@84.3mph NA
*1988 Mustang 5.0 7.92@87 NA- For Sale
*1988 Mustang GT 'vert
9.56@73-bone stock
*1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R 7.30@100mph
*1987 Honda CRX Si 16.5@85mph-stock

100% American!

 

It'll probably be cheaper to buy an aftermarket housing.

Although moving the panhard, LCA, shock and spring mounts over isn't hard to do, there's practically no way to mount the torque arm. The center section of a 12 bolt is cast iron. There's no way to weld a strong enough mount to the housing to take the torque of the torque arm without risking the welds breaking. The aftermarket housing has the mounting pad cast into the housing.

Your only other choice is to change the rear suspension to eliminate the torque arm to something like a 4-link or ladder bars.

You also need to be aware of the width of the diff. Just about every 12 bolt diff is too wide for a third gen unless it's out of a first gen. There's also internal differences in 12 bolt car diffs and 12 bolt truck diffs.

100 bucks might sound like a good deal just to get the gears but you might be buying something you just can't use.

------------------
Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car

87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.589
Best MPH on a time slip: 116
Best corrected ET: 11.079

Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 468
Best 60 foot: 1.646
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

 

I've actually done the swap. I have a 69' Chevelle rear. It's about 1.5" narrower than my stock 10 bolt. My torque arm bracket has held up so far. I have $600 total in my rear end swap. That includes new Richmond 3.73 gears & Moser axles.

If your cousin is a competent welder/fabricator... I say go for it!

------------------
1986 IROC-Z, 8pt. cage, 383, Mini Ram, DFI, Art Carr 700R4, 12 bolt.....

 

Thanks guys. I checked to see if it was a posi unit today and it was. I can get a good welder, but I am skeptical of the strength of the welds on the cast part. I plan on eventually making around 550-600 hp and actually half way hooking it. So I need something that will hold for sure.

I figure new axles, a rebuild kit, tube work and hats for disc brakes, and a housing should be all I need right? I WILL need something sooner or later so I figure this a good deal. Any opinions?

 

Ok, more info on my TA bracket; It welds to the left rear axle tube, then there is a piece of plate off of that - it is bolted through the fin on the housing, then welded to the center section using mild steel/cast iron welding rod. I plan to be around 400 RWHP on motor and more with a direct port nitrous system - I am not even remotely worried about the integrity of the welds or the construction of the bracket. My father did all the welding and fabrication, he has been doing it for over 30 years and is a certified welder.

------------------
1986 IROC-Z, 8pt. cage, 383, Mini Ram, DFI, Art Carr 700R4, 12 bolt.....

 

What's up ho

 

I got your ho right here punk!

------------------
1986 IROC-Z, 8pt. cage, 383, Mini Ram, DFI, Art Carr 700R4, 12 bolt.....