its on baby, come torque with me
#31
I see the point about sheet metal being sheet metal no matter how thick it is, and I would guess that a TC is pressed out of a sheet, so you're right. TC's are indeed made of heavy gauge sheet metal.
So how about a 1/4"NPT Allen-head plug? Not much weight there since the drive faces are recessed....that's what one guy I knew used. I'd think it would be close enough...probably as close as GM's late-80's production tolerances (i.e. not very close,) but even if it was way off you could tack a counterweight on the other side and use Teflon tape on the plug to keep it from leaking. A sheetmetal screw would be a definite hack-job, but if done right I can't see how it would be detrimental...and it would certainly make less of a mess.
Oh and I'd go with 1 5/8" into a 3" collector. You'll need it once you break 325hp.
So how about a 1/4"NPT Allen-head plug? Not much weight there since the drive faces are recessed....that's what one guy I knew used. I'd think it would be close enough...probably as close as GM's late-80's production tolerances (i.e. not very close,) but even if it was way off you could tack a counterweight on the other side and use Teflon tape on the plug to keep it from leaking. A sheetmetal screw would be a definite hack-job, but if done right I can't see how it would be detrimental...and it would certainly make less of a mess.
Oh and I'd go with 1 5/8" into a 3" collector. You'll need it once you break 325hp.
#32
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
So how about a 1/4"NPT Allen-head plug? Not much weight there since the drive faces are recessed....that's what one guy I knew used. I'd think it would be close enough...probably as close as GM's late-80's production tolerances (i.e. not very close,) but even if it was way off you could tack a counterweight on the other side and use Teflon tape on the plug to keep it from leaking.
So how about a 1/4"NPT Allen-head plug? Not much weight there since the drive faces are recessed....that's what one guy I knew used. I'd think it would be close enough...probably as close as GM's late-80's production tolerances (i.e. not very close,) but even if it was way off you could tack a counterweight on the other side and use Teflon tape on the plug to keep it from leaking.
This could work if done properly ,like you said GM's tolerances are real close(lol) , and if you cut the plug down to or close to the thickness of the TC you should be ok ,but I don't think I would use teflon tape ,but maybe RTV to kinda glue that plug in.
#35
Originally posted by Rice Killer87
y dont u go post in the 4x4 forums....***
y dont u go post in the 4x4 forums....***
Why don't you post in the "Teach Me Grammar" forum?
Everyone has their own opinion....his is that stock height is a good height. Leave him to it. If you think he's wrong that's fine, but the whole name-calling thing just makes you look like a pissed-off 12 year old.
The inability to spell the words "why" and "you" doesn't help much either.
#42
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
If you're sending it back to them to be re-stalled anyway...why not see if they can put a drain plug in it? That way if you do have a problem with it, it's their puppy not yours.
If you're sending it back to them to be re-stalled anyway...why not see if they can put a drain plug in it? That way if you do have a problem with it, it's their puppy not yours.
#45
A torque converter uses tranny fluid to allow controlled slippage between the engine and tranny (so the engine won't stall every time you stop the car.) How much slippage depends on how the converter is made, and this slippage is called the "stall speed." By using a stall speed that matches the powerband of the engine, you get better power transfer and better acceleration.
That's the bare-bones version. How it works is fairly complicated, there are entire websites dedicated to explaining that.
That's the bare-bones version. How it works is fairly complicated, there are entire websites dedicated to explaining that.