Just bought 88 IROC-Z, 350. Fuel pump Q:
#1
Just bought 88 IROC-Z, 350. Fuel pump Q:
The car I bought has 73,000 miles. 5000 on a new block & lower end. The original owner sold it to his brother who trashed it. It doesn't have any rust, but paint is rough, and a few dings. Motor "looks" good. TPI. I got it to run with starter fluid, and determined that the fuel pump is not working. It has been sitting outside since last fall.
What fuel pump should I go with? Do I need to drop the rear along with the tank to change the pump? A few have told me that I do not need to take out the rear end. What is the deal?
I need to get thic car running for daily transportation.
What fuel pump should I go with? Do I need to drop the rear along with the tank to change the pump? A few have told me that I do not need to take out the rear end. What is the deal?
I need to get thic car running for daily transportation.
#5
Re: Just bought 88 IROC-Z, 350. Fuel pump Q:
Originally posted by Black Sunshine/ 00SS
The car I bought has 73,000 miles. 5000 on a new block & lower end. The original owner sold it to his brother who trashed it. It doesn't have any rust, but paint is rough, and a few dings. Motor "looks" good. TPI. I got it to run with starter fluid, and determined that the fuel pump is not working. It has been sitting outside since last fall.
What fuel pump should I go with? Do I need to drop the rear along with the tank to change the pump? A few have told me that I do not need to take out the rear end. What is the deal?
I need to get thic car running for daily transportation.
The car I bought has 73,000 miles. 5000 on a new block & lower end. The original owner sold it to his brother who trashed it. It doesn't have any rust, but paint is rough, and a few dings. Motor "looks" good. TPI. I got it to run with starter fluid, and determined that the fuel pump is not working. It has been sitting outside since last fall.
What fuel pump should I go with? Do I need to drop the rear along with the tank to change the pump? A few have told me that I do not need to take out the rear end. What is the deal?
I need to get thic car running for daily transportation.
The L98 kit is available through ARE and other authorized dealers listed on the www.racetronix.com web page.
Jack
Racetronix
#6
Harold,
The car needs to be up on a hoist and the rear end lowered down to get the tank out. The reason you're gonna need a hoist is b/c the tank has to come out almost vertically. You will need lots of ground clearance to get it out. The old "hack" way of doing it is to peel back the carpet in the hatch area and cut an access hole with a 5" holesaw. You'd be surprised how many 3rd gens I've come acrossed that have that "access hole" already there from a previous FP replacement.
As far as pumps go, get a 93-95 LT1 replacement pump. They're cheap and are better than a stock replacement.
The car needs to be up on a hoist and the rear end lowered down to get the tank out. The reason you're gonna need a hoist is b/c the tank has to come out almost vertically. You will need lots of ground clearance to get it out. The old "hack" way of doing it is to peel back the carpet in the hatch area and cut an access hole with a 5" holesaw. You'd be surprised how many 3rd gens I've come acrossed that have that "access hole" already there from a previous FP replacement.
As far as pumps go, get a 93-95 LT1 replacement pump. They're cheap and are better than a stock replacement.
#7
You can do it on your driveway. just need to get the rear of the car high enough so that you can drop the rear really low.
We did pump change on my brothers old 96 Camaro and the 3rd gens are setup pretty much identical.
Make sure that it is the pump and not the relay, unless you want to change the pump due to the milage.
We did pump change on my brothers old 96 Camaro and the 3rd gens are setup pretty much identical.
Make sure that it is the pump and not the relay, unless you want to change the pump due to the milage.
#8
harold, if your just driving it stock, then a stock replacement will do fine. you can get one at murrays for like $36 I think it was. anyways, DONT cut the floorpan! I dont think Mike was suggesting you do this either. problem is youneed more than a 5" hole. you need to clear the fuel pipes too, which would result in a HUGE hole(maybe 1foot by 5 inches?), not a 5" hole. you just need tall jack stands to put onder the rear frame. you need to remove the brake line bolt in the middle of the axle, then remove the lower shock nuts and sway bar end links to lower the rearend about 4-5"s or so. then remoce the rearportion of the muffler and heatshield. then the fuel lines get disconnected and the straps droped. then it will need to be pulled down hard on the pass. side of the tank to "bend" the filler neck slightly to clear the frame where it pass's through it. now replace the pump and your ready to do the hard part. putting it back in. sometimes they seem to fall back into place, but usually not. when the tank is back in, you can straighten the filler neck a little by inserting a prybar into the neck and prying it down a little to center it again. (you'll see what i mean at that point)
def. test the pump by disconecting it at the pump conn. and running your own power and ground to it. just to make sure its not a wiring problem first.
good luck
and get that blackmulletmoblile running damnit!
chris
def. test the pump by disconecting it at the pump conn. and running your own power and ground to it. just to make sure its not a wiring problem first.
good luck
and get that blackmulletmoblile running damnit!
chris
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