Lt1 Swap Questions
04-14-2003, 06:53 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
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Lt1 Swap Questions
Ok guys I need some help...Ive read so much but cant put it all together and still have some questions.
I've got the motor lined up, its a '95 LT1 out of a Buick Roadmaster (iron heads i know
). Obviously its got an auto and I'm mating it to a T-56
so I will need a new chip correct? Can I get a replacement one for a 95 T-56 equipped Z28/TA? If I get all the sensors with the motor (im getting it shipped out tomorrow) will it be a bolt in? Will I be able to bolt it to the tranny, put it in the car (im NOT doing A/C), hook it up and walah? Please give me a list of ALL misc. sensors or parts I should have sent with the motor!! Thanks Guys!!!
I've got the motor lined up, its a '95 LT1 out of a Buick Roadmaster (iron heads i know
). Obviously its got an auto and I'm mating it to a T-56 so I will need a new chip correct? Can I get a replacement one for a 95 T-56 equipped Z28/TA? If I get all the sensors with the motor (im getting it shipped out tomorrow) will it be a bolt in? Will I be able to bolt it to the tranny, put it in the car (im NOT doing A/C), hook it up and walah? Please give me a list of ALL misc. sensors or parts I should have sent with the motor!! Thanks Guys!!!
04-14-2003, 07:09 PM
#2
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Location: Mooresville, NC
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I'm going to use the LT1 starter (if available) for clearence issues with headers. if i cant get it though the 3rd gen one will work fine right? an LT1 runs with higher fuel pressure so if i get a fuel pump from a TPI equipped 3rd gen would that work? or do i NEED one from an LT1 powered car? Would the power steering pump/lines off of my 92 RS all fit as well? Would my radiator work? My T5 is 25" long and a T-56 26.4" so would I have to cut my driveshaft?
Last edited by Black6SpdTA; 04-14-2003 at 07:24 PM.
04-15-2003, 03:16 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Manchester, IA
Posts: 240
Well ill tell you one thing, im glad i have an lt1 in a way. Its a strong motor and it runs good.......when it runs. I have problems left and right with my opti spark (distributor, its between the water pump and the block) its a messed up design and mine sucks. You might understand what im talking about soon enough, but lets hope not.
Us the fuel pump for that year model car, but make sure its for a 350, or just by a 190 or so fuel pump. That way you know it will be cool.
i needed new, ac lines (but you arent doing ac so dont worry about that) new power steering lines, and fuel lines (from the fuel rail to the feed and return lines) I also made a custom radiator holders (i used the 4th gen radiator) custom ps fluid canister holder. Custom throttle cable braket, and a custom motor mount on the passenger side because of the ac needed a braket to make it fit.
Electrical problems? If you have any, then call these guys....they have all the answers to an lt1 converstion into a 3rd gen. Speed Scene wirring at 210-651-1895. They will answer your guestions about anything and everything. Good luck, it was worth it to me, if i could get this damn opti spark figured out.
Bobby
BTW: look at my iroc pics in my sig and you can see what the lt1 looks like in the car.
Us the fuel pump for that year model car, but make sure its for a 350, or just by a 190 or so fuel pump. That way you know it will be cool.
i needed new, ac lines (but you arent doing ac so dont worry about that) new power steering lines, and fuel lines (from the fuel rail to the feed and return lines) I also made a custom radiator holders (i used the 4th gen radiator) custom ps fluid canister holder. Custom throttle cable braket, and a custom motor mount on the passenger side because of the ac needed a braket to make it fit.
Electrical problems? If you have any, then call these guys....they have all the answers to an lt1 converstion into a 3rd gen. Speed Scene wirring at 210-651-1895. They will answer your guestions about anything and everything. Good luck, it was worth it to me, if i could get this damn opti spark figured out.
Bobby
BTW: look at my iroc pics in my sig and you can see what the lt1 looks like in the car.
Last edited by irocbob89; 04-15-2003 at 01:52 PM.
04-15-2003, 07:27 AM
#6
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you said you used a 4th gen radiator, can i use mine out my 3rd gen? also, do you need to make a custom ps fluid canister or does that just make it easier? will mine work? im trying to use as much as possible off of my exsisting setup. thanks for the reply it was helpful o and SWEET CAR
edit:IrocBob89, what year is your motor. '95 and up is supposed to be a "better" optispark from what ive heard.
edit:IrocBob89, what year is your motor. '95 and up is supposed to be a "better" optispark from what ive heard.
Last edited by Black6SpdTA; 04-15-2003 at 07:30 AM.
04-15-2003, 11:01 AM
#9
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Location: New Phila, OH
Posts: 357
Yes those SLP headers will work thats what I have SLP 30005. No your stock ps fluid canister will not work. As for the drivershaft I didnt have to shorten mine and the T56 is the same length as a 700-R4 so I dont think you need to do that. 3rd gen radiator will work, but I found it easier to use a 4th gen.
04-15-2003, 11:36 AM
#10
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Bloomington, MN
Posts: 454
I have a write up on my site that has helped 100s of people...most of the guys on here that now have LT1s in their 3rd Gens.
You do NOT have to shorten your driveshaft. It is the same length as all the others. I have a T56, and I'm using a 1LE DS without problems.
I am also running SLP 1 3/4" 3rd Gen headers, with an LT1 starter...no problems there either.
You can run a fuel pump from a TPI car, but if you're going to go through the hassle of swapping them out, get a higher performance one.
Use a 4th Gen radiator with a 3rd Gen radiator cover and cut it in the middle and shorten it so it's the right length.
Just check out my site...I have pictures of all of this stuff and I have a pretty comprehensive write up on how to do it. Let me know if you have any questions...
Eric
You do NOT have to shorten your driveshaft. It is the same length as all the others. I have a T56, and I'm using a 1LE DS without problems.
I am also running SLP 1 3/4" 3rd Gen headers, with an LT1 starter...no problems there either.
You can run a fuel pump from a TPI car, but if you're going to go through the hassle of swapping them out, get a higher performance one.
Use a 4th Gen radiator with a 3rd Gen radiator cover and cut it in the middle and shorten it so it's the right length.
Just check out my site...I have pictures of all of this stuff and I have a pretty comprehensive write up on how to do it. Let me know if you have any questions...
Eric
04-15-2003, 01:55 PM
#11
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Manchester, IA
Posts: 240
Originally posted by Rippin92RS
you said you used a 4th gen radiator, can i use mine out my 3rd gen? also, do you need to make a custom ps fluid canister or does that just make it easier? will mine work? im trying to use as much as possible off of my exsisting setup. thanks for the reply it was helpful o and SWEET CAR
edit:IrocBob89, what year is your motor. '95 and up is supposed to be a "better" optispark from what ive heard.
you said you used a 4th gen radiator, can i use mine out my 3rd gen? also, do you need to make a custom ps fluid canister or does that just make it easier? will mine work? im trying to use as much as possible off of my exsisting setup. thanks for the reply it was helpful o and SWEET CAR
edit:IrocBob89, what year is your motor. '95 and up is supposed to be a "better" optispark from what ive heard.
04-17-2003, 08:47 AM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Chicago,Illinois USA
Posts: 145
I used a 3rd gen radiator and it runs nice and cool. You don't have to get a 4th gen one at all. I don't see how it would make things easier. If you are going this route...you'll need a the following:
'94 corvette lower radiator hose
'95 Camaro Z28 upper radiator hose
3/8" brass coupling
18" 3/8" ruber cooling line
6' 5/8" heater hose
6' 3/4" heater hose
assorted hose clamps
Two caps for about a 5/8" tube.
Here's how you need to run this using the stock radiator: use the 'vette lower radiator hose to connect the radiator to the gooseneck on the LT1 water pump. Use the Camaro upper radiator hose to connect the radiator to the LT1 water pump. (you may have to grind off a little of your existing radiator shroud, but it's very minor work). Now on the upper radiator hose, there will be a 3/8" rubber line kinda splicing off of it. What you need to do with that is take the brass coupling, put it on, and take the 3/8" extra piece of tubing you bought and connect it to the brass coupling, therefore extending the tube coming off the upper radiator hose. Now route that 3/8" hose under the throttle body so it pokes out past the TB on the passenger side. There you will snake it around and connect it straight to a metal coolant line that runs along the bolts on the passenger side of the intake all the way to the back of the heads. That will eliminate the need for you using the TB to pass coolant, and giving you the cheap TB bypass mod. Now to route the lines to the heater core. Take 6' of 3/4" coolant line and run it from the upper port on the water pump all the way to the 3/4" opening on the heater core. Since you have 6' to play with, you can route it pretty much anyway the hell you want (they sell pre cut 6' rolls of this stuff for $3.99 at the auto parts stores). Now take the 5/8" heater hose and run it from the lower port on the water pump (BTW, both the ports for the heater core on the water ppump are on the passenger side) and run it all the way to the 5/8" port on the heater core. Now you have pretty much all the lines run. This is now an optional/conditional point of the coolant routing. Are you going to be using the stock LT1 oil cooler? If you are, you will not have to buy the 2 caps for mentioned in the parts list, but you will have to buy 6 more feet of 5/8" cooling tubing. There'll be one port one the drivers side of the waterpump for the oil cooler. You run a hose from that port to the oil cooler, and a hose from the oil cooler back to the opening in your radiator (which was originally used as a return from the heater core in a stock setup). If you do not plan to use the oil cooler, just block the ports on the radiator and waterpump. You'll be all set. That's the whole cooling setup. Not too hard if you understand it, and I think I explained it fairly well.
The above was not written by me but I duplicated Markolc's setup at 3rdgen.org and it works perfectly. He wrote this.
'94 corvette lower radiator hose
'95 Camaro Z28 upper radiator hose
3/8" brass coupling
18" 3/8" ruber cooling line
6' 5/8" heater hose
6' 3/4" heater hose
assorted hose clamps
Two caps for about a 5/8" tube.
Here's how you need to run this using the stock radiator: use the 'vette lower radiator hose to connect the radiator to the gooseneck on the LT1 water pump. Use the Camaro upper radiator hose to connect the radiator to the LT1 water pump. (you may have to grind off a little of your existing radiator shroud, but it's very minor work). Now on the upper radiator hose, there will be a 3/8" rubber line kinda splicing off of it. What you need to do with that is take the brass coupling, put it on, and take the 3/8" extra piece of tubing you bought and connect it to the brass coupling, therefore extending the tube coming off the upper radiator hose. Now route that 3/8" hose under the throttle body so it pokes out past the TB on the passenger side. There you will snake it around and connect it straight to a metal coolant line that runs along the bolts on the passenger side of the intake all the way to the back of the heads. That will eliminate the need for you using the TB to pass coolant, and giving you the cheap TB bypass mod. Now to route the lines to the heater core. Take 6' of 3/4" coolant line and run it from the upper port on the water pump all the way to the 3/4" opening on the heater core. Since you have 6' to play with, you can route it pretty much anyway the hell you want (they sell pre cut 6' rolls of this stuff for $3.99 at the auto parts stores). Now take the 5/8" heater hose and run it from the lower port on the water pump (BTW, both the ports for the heater core on the water ppump are on the passenger side) and run it all the way to the 5/8" port on the heater core. Now you have pretty much all the lines run. This is now an optional/conditional point of the coolant routing. Are you going to be using the stock LT1 oil cooler? If you are, you will not have to buy the 2 caps for mentioned in the parts list, but you will have to buy 6 more feet of 5/8" cooling tubing. There'll be one port one the drivers side of the waterpump for the oil cooler. You run a hose from that port to the oil cooler, and a hose from the oil cooler back to the opening in your radiator (which was originally used as a return from the heater core in a stock setup). If you do not plan to use the oil cooler, just block the ports on the radiator and waterpump. You'll be all set. That's the whole cooling setup. Not too hard if you understand it, and I think I explained it fairly well.
The above was not written by me but I duplicated Markolc's setup at 3rdgen.org and it works perfectly. He wrote this.
Last edited by badassT/A; 04-17-2003 at 08:50 AM.
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