I have been doing ALOT of reading and I still need some answers. First thing is that When I put the new VATS cylinder in (to replace old VATS) will I need to make any adjustments to module or ECU??? I have read on one post that once your car is cranked with original key, It(the Module or ECU) stores the resistant of the pass key and I will have to bypass the VATS...One post said all I have to do is pop in the new VATS and it should work??? I hope someone out there can clear this up for me...I will have to rig up a bypass if the first post is correct (do not want to do it, but money hinders everything). The bypass consists of me using the old ignition cylinder tied into the exisiting wires (2 small ones) and placing it (with key inserted) in dash out of the way.....Bypasses the VATS without using resistor.

Input will be appreciated

Later

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1989 Formula 350
K&N air filter, air foil, TB Bypass, AFPR (set at 45 psi), A.I.R. yanked out, Accel 8mm wires, Fireball external coil, Pulley (just the crank), gutted MAF, corvette servo, Hooker super comp. shorties, 3" exhaust all the way back, No cats, Flowmaster 40 series muffler (one in one out turned down)---Developed a bad habit....bottle related!!!!75 Shot of Nitrous
http://www.theformulasource.com/owne...php?siteid=144

So they made him get rid of it...For decency ya know....But it came back the next day...

My webpage:www.cardomain.com/id/1fastformula

 

I am telling you this from my experience as an auto repossessor-

The VATS key has the resistor in the key. There are 14 different values. The value of the key's resistor must match the value programmed in the PROM. Example: If the PROM calls for a #10 key only a #10 key will allow the PROM to power up.

When replacing the lock cylinder you will need to measure the resistance of your original key. The new ignition must have a key with the same resistance. In the repossession business we use whats called a VATS interrogator. What it does is tries all of the 14 codes in the ECM until it finds the correct one. We then cut a key with that value resisitor built in.

Hope this sheds a little light on the subject.

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Mike L.

1987 IROC Z 5.7 TPI A4 3.27 Borg-Warner four wheel disc
Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified airbox w/ K&N's, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, MSD 6A, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, 3" Flowmaster 3 chamber single outlet, custom adjustable cutout, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, airfoil, ported plenum. !smog, Crane AFPR, Accel rail mounted FP gauge, Harlan shiftlite, 24lb. injectors, Hedman headers, a few others I forgot...??? FINALLY GOT PAINT!!

Check out my IROC webpage!

 

You are the man!!!! I called my local dealership(the second choice...I will get to the first choice later) and he said to bring my key in and he will read it and cut me a new one for 30 bucks. With that price plus the new VATS cylinder, I am paying under 100 bucks!!!!! I just hope the new cylinder comes with all the necessary wiring. Thanks Iroc....You are the one who has the knowledge and who wants to share it

Later

P.S. Go to Lounge to read about first choice



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1989 Formula 350
K&N air filter, air foil, TB Bypass, AFPR (set at 45 psi), A.I.R. yanked out, Accel 8mm wires, Fireball external coil, Pulley (just the crank), gutted MAF, corvette servo, Hooker super comp. shorties, 3" exhaust all the way back, No cats, Flowmaster 40 series muffler (one in one out turned down)---Developed a bad habit....bottle related!!!!75 Shot of Nitrous
http://www.theformulasource.com/owne...php?siteid=144

So they made him get rid of it...For decency ya know....But it came back the next day...

My webpage:www.cardomain.com/id/1fastformula

 

His description is close... Here is actually how it works: http://sethirdgen.org/vats.htm

Your new lock cylinder will come w/ the needed wires, and a "dummy" key. You will need to have the old key to find out the code, then get a blank ignition key w/ that code and have it trace cut to the "dummy" key the cylinder came with.

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Webmaster:SETHIRDGEN
GM Tech
ASE Master Auto Technician + L1
1987 Trans Am: 357ci
Ported TFS heads, ZZ4 cam, headers & exhuast and other go fast goodies
13.53 @ 103.77

 

Thank you GMtech.....Great info at that link and very easy to understand as well. I popped off the ignition cylinder this evening and two things..one the cylinder would not turn all the way to crank and two I must have broke the wire trying to get it to crank...Oh well...New one will be installed tomorrow.

Thanks for everything

Later

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1989 Formula 350
K&N air filter, air foil, TB Bypass, AFPR (set at 45 psi), A.I.R. yanked out, Accel 8mm wires, Fireball external coil, Pulley (just the crank), gutted MAF, corvette servo, Hooker super comp. shorties, 3" exhaust all the way back, No cats, Flowmaster 40 series muffler (one in one out turned down)---Developed a bad habit....bottle related!!!!75 Shot of Nitrous
http://www.theformulasource.com/owne...php?siteid=144

So they made him get rid of it...For decency ya know....But it came back the next day...

My webpage:www.cardomain.com/id/1fastformula

 

Now let me tell you the low-buck down-home good-ol-boy way of doing it. Take the original cylinder out but leave the VATS wires connected to it- it's obvious which ones they are- a twin pair of small-gague wires, white in color if memory serves, and zip-tie the original cylinder somwhere under the dash. Leave the original key in that cylinder. Then install whatever ignition cylinder you want up on the steering column (doesn't even have to be an expensive VATS cylinder- a $15 parts store cylinder/key combo will work fine). Presto- VATS is as happy as a clam and you get your car's ignition working again and keep the extra clams in your pocket.

And it will actually be more difficult for theives to steal the car if you regularly remove the original key from the cylinder under the dash when you park the car since they won't know that VATS is still active and if they do they will be less likely to know you stashed it up under the dash, instead of on the column where they will be expecting it to be.

Techically, that's what I would call a "rig job" but it's a high quality rig job that saves a lot of money, so it might be worth giving it some thought. And I wouldn't suggest a rig job unless I had actually done it myself.


[This message has been edited by Damon (edited June 18, 2002).]

 

Done and Done........Installed new Cyl and got a fresh key(with vats chip set at previous resistance)for a startling $86.30

Thanks for all the help broptheren...And I almost went with the "rig-job" until I found out how CHEAP the right way was

Later

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1989 Formula 350
K&N air filter, air foil, TB Bypass, AFPR (set at 45 psi), A.I.R. yanked out, Accel 8mm wires, Fireball external coil, Pulley (just the crank), gutted MAF, corvette servo, Hooker super comp. shorties, 3" exhaust all the way back, No cats, Flowmaster 40 series muffler (one in one out turned down)---Developed a bad habit....bottle related!!!!75 Shot of Nitrous
http://www.theformulasource.com/owne...php?siteid=144

So they made him get rid of it...For decency ya know....But it came back the next day...

My webpage:www.cardomain.com/id/1fastformula