Oil Weight, Effects?
#16
Yes, but I like the viscosity in the lubrication. I agree that oil like 0W40 is a lot of transition to make but for Mobil1 which is synthetic, it should be ok. If not, during winter months, you can find 0W30 Mobil1 at quite a few auto parts storesnand even Target.
#17
Ive been using 20w-50 castrol gtx in my 84 camaro for 5 years now. Im now on the edge of turning 186k miles in it with no problems with the bottom end or the valvetrain . I drive it year round and to me nothing is more comforting than having the oil pressure on the high side. So far on this car its needed a carb rebuild and a tranny rebuild. Never had any oiling problems. I swear by the stuff.
#19
I started using thicker and thicker oil on my very first Trans Am to curb the blow-by. By the time i sold it, I'm pretty sure it had a rod knock, which might have been brought on by, at least partly, the heavy oil. I just kinda link those two together now. I don't really see why a car would need 20w50 oil. Helps the oil burning, but its gotta be harder on the engine. I also have no idea how many miles the engine really had so.....and I beat the **** outta that car.
#22
A little info for you guys, the vfirst numbre in front of the W is the weight of the oil,the second number is what it will oil like. 10W is 10W weather it has a 20,30,or 40 behind it ,and 20W is the same and so on. Autos have been running on 30 and 40W for years with no problems and would continue to use these except for the need to get better fuel mileage. Think of it like swimming in water(0W,or10W)or swimming in mud (40W,and up) which is easier? That is why auto manufactures recomend the lighter weight oils so that they can meet CAFE standards. If you were to run 30w in your car and take a trip to NY,and change your oil to 5w and drive back you would see better mileage. On a older engine you may want to use something a little heavier be cause of worn clearances this heavier oil does help take up space between parts,but this is only a temporary fix. If you don't believe me try this for yourself open a bottle of 10w20 and a bottle of 10w40 they will feel the same,but the viscosity is differant.
#23
No one worried me, i just noticed things that were different with the 10-40 vs. 5-30.
Since i have had the 10-40 in it, when the rpms hit like 4000 you can smell the oil burning, i think this is because the pressure is going up to 65 on a 0-60 scale.
Bottom line is the pressure is too high, that is what worried me.
-Ville H. Valo
Since i have had the 10-40 in it, when the rpms hit like 4000 you can smell the oil burning, i think this is because the pressure is going up to 65 on a 0-60 scale.
Bottom line is the pressure is too high, that is what worried me.
-Ville H. Valo
#27
im running almost 400,000kms on my 5.0 towncar, im getting the general blow by, i mean blow by so bad its leaks oil into the vacuume hoses and oil runs into the throttle body. im getting the resulted piston slap on cold start -from weak rings and worn bearings. the high pressure in the crankcase which blows oil past the o-ring in my distributer burning oil resin onto my cap terminals that i have to clean off periodically..
im using 5-30 synthetic, and topping up with a synthetic blend. -as i figure thinner oil can only lubricate and prolong the life of my already worn out parts. if i use a thicker oil its going to take longer for my car to warm up and the parts are going to have less protection until the car is warm. sure i go through a litre every 1000, but id rather spend 2$ on a litre of oil and get what i can out of it, than have somthing go on me soon.
im using 5-30 synthetic, and topping up with a synthetic blend. -as i figure thinner oil can only lubricate and prolong the life of my already worn out parts. if i use a thicker oil its going to take longer for my car to warm up and the parts are going to have less protection until the car is warm. sure i go through a litre every 1000, but id rather spend 2$ on a litre of oil and get what i can out of it, than have somthing go on me soon.
#29
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