dochtermiatasbrother

I want to keep stock dash just cause i love the feel and look of it/ but other than that what all can i shed, and just how much help is it all? i dont mind guttin the car since its purty much Track only now...../

V8Rumble

Not sure that the weights shown in this page are accurate, but it's a start...

king1138

the heating/air condition system call all go if you don't mind sparing it, i just spent the last few mornings before work ripping the dash apart, you won't believe how much useless ducting can be ripped out of there, you can also shed the heater core and air cond compressor/condensor and the fan housing. all this is good for about 20-30 less pounds which means about 5-6 more hp at the wheels. its not too difficult as long as you have the patience.

Tru2Chevy

Although not all 4th gen stuff applies to third gens, there is a pretty good list on LS1Tech:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17319

- Justin

respectirocz

most of that first list is minor mods, if ur really looking to loose weight, look for tubular suspension components, a tubular k-member and lower control arms for a 3rd gen will shave off a whopping 150lbs, there are also fiberglass fenders that save weight and tubular members for the rear suspension, i have a buncha links at home, i'll post them later

JSkeet

im no expert but im gonna list the things i plan sooner or later:

remote location of batter(trunk)
fuel cell
tubular suspension
tubular k-member (not very expensive $300)
fiberglass hood (dont waste time w/ fiberglass fenders, they dont weigh anything stock)
lexan can be used for the windows and hatch
fiberglass deck lid
remove stereo eqip.
gut interior
1 racing seat
aluminum driveshaft
slicks/skinnies

dont forget a big *** stall, line lock, and trans brake

89385formula

There are many things that you can do to shed some extra weight that your vehicle has.-you can remove the sound deadening padding from below the carpet
-Use lightweight carpet
-Ditch the front and rear bumper supports
-Don't get F/G fenders, they weigh more than stock
-If your car is t-tops, switch your glass ones for the later lexan ones
-remove spare tire, and jack
-Remove anything you don't use
....those are all I can think of right now, but if you search around there is alot more.

Stephen 87 IROC

It's hard to suggest things without knowing how gutted your car is now. Since it's track only, all I can say is remove anything that isn't required to make it go fast or for the required safety. You can remove the front and rear bumpers. You can cut out the crash bar from inside the doors. The list can go on and on.

There's isn't much left that I can remove from my car except maybe some layers of internal sheet metal. My car is gutted so much that it can never be converted back to street use.

With a BBC and a full roll cage, my race weight was between 3000 and 3100 pounds last year. There's been some major changes this winter and I'm hoping to be close to 2800 when I'm done. That's race weight. Car, driver, fuel etc.

Check out some of the pics on my web site.

respectirocz

if u can tell me where to get a tubular k-memmebr for my 3rd gen camaro for 300 i'll jump on it, the cheapest i found with help of this forum is from pa racing but 3rd gen's need spring perches so the k-member runs about 380 bucks or so

and where can u get the fiberglass decklid?

is replacing all the glass with lexan street legal? and where can i get lexan for my 3rd gen?

thanks

JSkeet

VFN fiberglass sells a ton of stuff... I dont think lexan is street legal but i've been to car shows and seen street driven cars w/ lexan rear windows and windshields.

i dont know that any specific company makes the lexan sized for any certain cars, its all self-fabbed to my best knowledge.

if u say you'll jump on a $300 k-member, whats the big deal w/ a $380 one? jump on that? im just going on what i've heard/seen through being associated w/ these cars

BTW- if the car is track only... screw saving for things here and there... take care of weight and suspension all at once, BUY A 4-LINK!!

Stephen 87 IROC

Nothing says you can't have Lexan on the street but you'll be giving up a lot of comfort. About the only thing you can change to Lexan without any problems is the windshield. Even then you'll only shave off 10 pounds off the car. A Lexan windshield is normally 3/16" thick. Any thinner and you need center supports to keep it in place.

Lexan side windows will need supports so the windows will never be able to roll down. Because the Lexan isn't as stiff as the formed glass, it won't seal against the upper door seals and will leak when it rains. That's the problem with a non post car.

Lexan rear window is a race only option. You won't be able to open it like a normal hatch. My rear Lexan has center supports to hold it up and is rivited to the body. My deck lid is a sheet of aluminum held on with Dzus fasteners for when I want access to the battery. Nothing pretty and it sure won't win any show and shines but it's light and functional for racing.

Jegs sells the Percy window kits. The complete kit for a third gen is $1090
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...71&prmenbr=361

Speed costs money. Lightweight parts cost even more money. If you think $300 for a tubular crossmember is expensive, you're not going to buy other performance parts. I go to the speed shops now and don't usually even ask the price. If it's something I need, I pay the price.

My car has been track only since 1999 and I just installed a tubular k-member and a-arms last month because I was having clearance issues with my new headers and the factory k-member. I never "needed" one until now. My k-member doesn't have motor mounts since I use a front motor plate but does have the spring perches. You can buy them without the spring perches and use the coil over kit but that cost even more money.

A 4-link would be nice but not everyone wants to cut up the back of the car to put one in. To have one installed including a new diff, you're probably looking in the $4000 - $6000 range to have someone do it. I have ladder bars under my car and they work fine.

njspder

lexan is not a federally approved replacement for glass.
taht means that there are no states that will accept lexan on a standard registration.
some states do have limited use adn classic/antique plates taht you can get away with it. unfortunately for me new jersey ain't one of them so i am stuck with heavy *** glass.

later
tim

dochtermiatasbrother

Well over the weekend i took out
door pnls/carpet/front and back/all sound mat/
im keeping console with radio,cause if i dont have a radio 2 pump me up at the track its just like driving a bike... So i guess you could say im going Semi Drag with my car.. Just loosing all that from under the hood and interior it seems as if its lighter driving it around...Prob just my imag,but i remember when this car was purty darn heavy....im thinking i got rid of about 300lbs between motor/inside car.....Tks 4 help guys..

respectirocz

thanks for the information on lexan

my car is a street car so i'm trying to me street legal
i dont have much money so if i can save 80 bucks on a k-member, i'll jump on it, i dont consider 300 expensive for a tubular k-member because i've seen it for as much as 500

anyway, any word on that fiberglass decklid?, mine is rusting away where the spoiler bolts on