3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

Serious trouble, please help!

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Old 02-22-2004, 08:55 PM
  #31  
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Well guys... I reset the computer again this time by letting the battery detached over night. This morning I check the throttle bodys, and the gas is just pouring In. I posted this on a new thread but no one would respond, so I figured I would keep this one going. Now when the key is on pump primes fine, and Im getting WAY too much gas pumped down in there. Now it wont start because its getting flooded before it gets a chance to fire. Is there anyways to turn this starting fuel ammount down? I thought about shutting the fuel pump and starting it with the gas thats just built up in the line. But even so, it wouldnt allow me to start consistantly. So what all controls the flow the fuel through there? Thanks again guys for your help.

Vertigo
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Old 02-22-2004, 09:19 PM
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would checking the computer for trouble codes help any?Is your "friend" still alive or did you "fix" him.Maybe you can get an answer from him.
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Old 02-22-2004, 10:52 PM
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Check the wiring to the map sensor, coolant temperature sensor, and throttle position sensor, also check the vacuum line to the map sensor. Pull another plug and see if is wet with fuel, i it is are you sure it still has spark on all cylinders? The coolant temperature sensor could tell the computer that the engine temperature is -42 degrees, so that would make it dump alot of extra fuel. A scanner may definitely help.

I thought you said the car was a TPI not a TBI?
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Old 02-22-2004, 10:59 PM
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Where is the throttle position sensor located? Good idea, I never though about the temp idea... that would explain why it is dumping so much if the position is fine...

Scott
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Old 02-22-2004, 11:09 PM
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TPS is located on the throttle shaft on the opposite side from where the throttle cable is attached. It should have a three wire connector on it.
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:47 PM
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Try replacing your MAF. My '89 did the same thing when the MAF went bad.
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:14 PM
  #37  
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try just unplugging the maf before you replace it
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:53 PM
  #38  
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Where is the MAF located? and what does it look like? Also how would I adjust the Throttle position Switch?

Vertigo
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:29 PM
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The MAF is a cylinder between the air cleaner and the TB and has wires coming out of it.
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:33 PM
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TPS adjustment here.
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Old 02-24-2004, 01:40 PM
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If you think it is the FPR, hook up a gauge and turn the key to the "Run" position and see if the pressure goes up or not. If the FPR is good, it should hold the pressure for a while. If it doesn't hold pressure, crimp off the return line and try again. If it pressurized up and the pressure did not bleed off, it is probably your FPR. If it did not pressurize up, it is your pump.
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Old 02-24-2004, 02:32 PM
  #42  
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Good idea mike, im going to check all of my damned connections. Chances are that he made one really loose and it could have came undone. Yeah the car is flooding its self out SO unbelievably fast. Its just in "Sit here and let it rain fuel for hours" mode haha.

aklim, your help has be greatly appreciated, you seem to care about others problems, do all you can to fix them, and you seem very educated on the matters. Just thought I'd let ya know.

Ok, so now I'll put this on my to check/do list. Where is the FPR located? I don't have a whole lot of time to experiment with my car, one because of the freezing cold weather somedays, and two working 8 hours a day its hard to find time when its day light. Is the MAF on the center split into to halves? With four wires coming off of it? On of the wires looked like it had been pull on and some of the shielding is missing. I could have done this taking the air filter and housing off though. I could check the voltages on them if I knew what all they should be.

I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary with the TPS. 3 wires that plug in to the passenger's side adjacent to the accel cable right? No shorts or anything, I couldnt find the actual sensor itself. How is the actual TPS attached?

Thanks for the ongoing trouble shooting. Update: I didn't have the heart to mess with that guys mustang. You know the one that decided to "play" with my car. Instead I paid some buddies to trash the exterior of his house. Ie. Arc welding whatever they could together, and taking off lots of **** that was screwed in and placing them in his living room ect. haha. More to come on his payback. Oh, and some guy that knows him, said that he admitted to taking my oil cap off, as he was going to pour sugar into my engine, but at the last minute he got scared. If thats all he did then this is all coinsidence why my car just died... but I bet there is more to it.

Take care guys,
\/Ert|g0
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Old 02-24-2004, 02:37 PM
  #43  
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Oh also, which pins do I need to short in order to get codes to return? My buddy with all of the equipment is on vacation so Im lost again. I think its pins 1 and 2 running vertically right? Also since I have reset the computer so many times, would it still hold the errors from before?

### Edit ###
When I try to retrieve codes it first flashes a bunch of crap, then it just repeats this for ever.
Flash, pause, Flash Flash.
Does that mean 12? If so what does -
12. No reference pulses to Electronic Control Module (ECM).
mean?
### end of edit ###

Thanks,
\/Ert|g0

Last edited by vertig0; 02-24-2004 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 02-24-2004, 03:53 PM
  #44  
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12 means that there are no fault codes stored which is not uncommon since you already reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. You did the right thing in trying to retrieve the codes but your timing is bad. Should have retreieved the codes before you did any clearing of the ECM.

The FPR is the Fuel Pressure Regulator. That canister that sits between both the fuel rails connected by a small pipe and it has a hose coming out of it.
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:28 AM
  #45  
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Hey guys...

Its been a while, and my car is still out of commission. I replaced the ignition control module, distributor, rotor, new plugs, new wires, new timing chain, christ what else? Ive spent like 700 bucks already. I still refuse to take it to the shop. About 4 weeks ago After laying on the ignition for about 3 minutes straight it fired right up. I left it running for about 40 minutes to get everything cleaned out, and it backfired and died. Now it wont start yet again.

I have good spark with new plugs and wires.
I have fuel, with perfect PSI.
I have damn equal compression on all cyls.
I have a full battery.

When it died the first time all of the gauges went wacko. And I just noticed this morning that my cd player isnt working that well. I havnt used it since the car died. But I tried to eject the cd and nothing. Radio works, but it acts like Its all fried and ****. So my question now is, where do I start looking for an electrical problem? All fuses are great. ECM reports no errors. Car turns over, fires one cyl occasionally but has only started once in the last 3 months. Someone said to check the driver side kick panel, for an anti theft device. I found a little module that had a **** load of corrosion and a bug like thing shorting two pins. The car trys to start the same way regardless of whether or not this module is plugged in.

Any help is greatly appreciated like always.

Take care,
Scott
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