slp runners on after market base manifold
#1
slp runners on after market base manifold
this winter im going to upgrade my intake manifold and runners on my 91 z28 5.7. but im buying them separate. im getting the SLP runners.
what is the best manifold to get that will work with these runners and work on factory heads?
i was thinking:
Edelbrock Manifold
or
TPiS Big Mouth Intake Manifold
if anyone of any otherones i would love to hear about them.
what is the best manifold to get that will work with these runners and work on factory heads?
i was thinking:
Edelbrock Manifold
or
TPiS Big Mouth Intake Manifold
if anyone of any otherones i would love to hear about them.
#3
are you taking about the holly stealth ram set up???
thats just too much money. its like $2500
im only 21 and in collage lol
but im looking to keep the tpi set up, i just want to upgrade it to keep it close to original bc of the condition its in and the mileage on it.
thats just too much money. its like $2500
im only 21 and in collage lol
but im looking to keep the tpi set up, i just want to upgrade it to keep it close to original bc of the condition its in and the mileage on it.
#4
Btw what heads are on it now(factory 91 5.7)
people that i show it to different things like vortec, aluminum, and cast iron.
anyone know the right answer so i can stop hearing bs off the streets?
people that i show it to different things like vortec, aluminum, and cast iron.
anyone know the right answer so i can stop hearing bs off the streets?
Last edited by tgates; 10-08-2009 at 04:24 PM.
#8
this winter im going to upgrade my intake manifold and runners on my 91 z28 5.7. but im buying them separate. im getting the SLP runners.
what is the best manifold to get that will work with these runners and work on factory heads?
i was thinking:
Edelbrock Manifold
or
TPiS Big Mouth Intake Manifold
if anyone of any other ones i would love to hear about them.
what is the best manifold to get that will work with these runners and work on factory heads?
i was thinking:
Edelbrock Manifold
or
TPiS Big Mouth Intake Manifold
if anyone of any other ones i would love to hear about them.
IMO the SLP runners by them selves are NOT worth doing. Wait until you can afford to do Heads and Cam.
#9
I also don't think doing the "Holly Stealth Ram" is worth it unless you do the heads and cam. at the same time.
#10
ok thats great info, i learned slot that i didnt know. by reading what you said, should i just pull some aluminum heads off a vette? would that be worth doing, bc like i said im 21 and in collage and money is tight.
could i just swap the heads from the vette onto my car without any mods? is there anything different about them besides better flowing and aluminum?
im looking for the best bang for my buck.
i already have a ton of bolt ons:
jet stage 2 chip
true ram air intake with k&ns
throttle body
adj fuel regulator
27lb injectors
ported plennum (reason for changing the rummers and base)
BBK underdrive pullies
magnaflow high fow cats
exhaust with cut out (no headers yet im doing headers and off road y pipe in the winter)
complete ignition upgrade (MSD)
tune
What would be the next best thing to do for a resonable price?
could i just swap the heads from the vette onto my car without any mods? is there anything different about them besides better flowing and aluminum?
im looking for the best bang for my buck.
i already have a ton of bolt ons:
jet stage 2 chip
true ram air intake with k&ns
throttle body
adj fuel regulator
27lb injectors
ported plennum (reason for changing the rummers and base)
BBK underdrive pullies
magnaflow high fow cats
exhaust with cut out (no headers yet im doing headers and off road y pipe in the winter)
complete ignition upgrade (MSD)
tune
What would be the next best thing to do for a resonable price?
#11
Bolting on stock aluminum L98 Vette heads will drop 50lbs off the car and increase copression a bit. Would I do it? No way. I don't think I've seen data that shows the Aluminum L98 head flowing more than the L98 Iron head. GM sells them as ZZ4 heads, puts bigger springs on them, possibly lighter valves... Pretty lame selling points. I like mods that create instant smile after installation. All 3 of these can be bought used also which is a PLUS! I always buy used Radials for less than half of new, my nitrous kit was over $1200 new but I got it for $600 used, my torque converter was 800+ new and I nabbed it locally for $300. I've bought 2 of them used now with great results, just be sure the seller is somewhat reputable..
1. Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials(255/50/16)
2. 2600rpm torque converter
3. 75-100 shot of nitrous.
*A TPI car is useless if it doesn't hook up when you plant the GO pedal.
**The converter feels like a 50hp gain because it puts you AT the torque peak when your press said GO pedal.
***Nitrous speaks for itself. Instant 100hp/200ft-lbs of torque.
None of them mess with the tune in the computer. Easy installs. Use a lift to make the converter swap MUCH easier.
The "bolt on" mods get really old. There are about 6 mods you listed that May or may not do anything for power. You almost have to install each one and test it to actually make sure it's not shooting you in the foot.
Goodluck!
1. Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials(255/50/16)
2. 2600rpm torque converter
3. 75-100 shot of nitrous.
*A TPI car is useless if it doesn't hook up when you plant the GO pedal.
**The converter feels like a 50hp gain because it puts you AT the torque peak when your press said GO pedal.
***Nitrous speaks for itself. Instant 100hp/200ft-lbs of torque.
None of them mess with the tune in the computer. Easy installs. Use a lift to make the converter swap MUCH easier.
The "bolt on" mods get really old. There are about 6 mods you listed that May or may not do anything for power. You almost have to install each one and test it to actually make sure it's not shooting you in the foot.
Goodluck!
#12
I personally like the TPI set-up, but yes it can get expensive. You can always port your original parts (like the heads and intake manifold), but that can cost a little when done by an experienced machinist. You could pull a set of corvette heads and port them, they should be cheap to find. But to buy them without porting I would say is a waste. Looks like you exhausted most of the bolt-ons. Ive been there....its not fulfulling. I got the SLP runners, but had to polish them (they come a little rough that what you would like). The TPI must flow smooth. It seems the runners are the limiting intake factor in your system. You could install them and should be OK with the base manifold (some say up to 350hp until you change it).
With the heads, I got the Trickflow heads ($1200) that are basically a drop in; they claim up to additional 40-55hp as is???? I took the extra step and had my machinist port match and polish everything. But if you are going to change the heads, may as well change the cam. Many people by the crate ZZ4 and junk the performance cam for a hotcam. You could prob. find one under $150. That is what I use to keep my torque curve to the low and mid range.
So in my humble opinion. Get a set of used corvette alum heads and port them, if you have the SLP runners, then use them. Replace the cam with a mild GM performance cam (from the ZZ4 setup), and then retune. If you do all the work, then the parts (including the SLP runners) should be under $700-800.
The point is, you will never be happy until you replace the heads and cam. The only other way to go for cheap power is the nitrous. Add a torque converter like AutoRoc said and you will see a difference with the TC alone. (PS put some subframe connectors on your car if not already.)
With the heads, I got the Trickflow heads ($1200) that are basically a drop in; they claim up to additional 40-55hp as is???? I took the extra step and had my machinist port match and polish everything. But if you are going to change the heads, may as well change the cam. Many people by the crate ZZ4 and junk the performance cam for a hotcam. You could prob. find one under $150. That is what I use to keep my torque curve to the low and mid range.
So in my humble opinion. Get a set of used corvette alum heads and port them, if you have the SLP runners, then use them. Replace the cam with a mild GM performance cam (from the ZZ4 setup), and then retune. If you do all the work, then the parts (including the SLP runners) should be under $700-800.
The point is, you will never be happy until you replace the heads and cam. The only other way to go for cheap power is the nitrous. Add a torque converter like AutoRoc said and you will see a difference with the TC alone. (PS put some subframe connectors on your car if not already.)
#13
The problem with used stock heads can be scary. They can be cracked, warped from overheating, dirty as hell, 20+ year old springs, a valvejob never hurts, assembly and dissassembly. Pocket porting and runner porting on top of that? Unless you are in the cylinder head business, revamping a set of old heads adds up FAST. Spending money on porting tools/abrasives and then assuming you have a compressor and a love for aluminum shavings in your hair and grinding in between your toes....
Magnaflux for cracks
hot tank/bead blast cleaning
assembly
milling
valvejob
new springs
Pocket porting/runner polishing (your basic HI-PO shop port job)
Flowbench
This is what you're looking at if you DON'T throw caution to the wind. Even with CHEAP OEM replacement parts, you're looking at $700 added to the cost of your new totally awesome Ebay vette heads. Another reason why aftermarket cylinder heads sell.
Goodluck!
Magnaflux for cracks
hot tank/bead blast cleaning
assembly
milling
valvejob
new springs
Pocket porting/runner polishing (your basic HI-PO shop port job)
Flowbench
This is what you're looking at if you DON'T throw caution to the wind. Even with CHEAP OEM replacement parts, you're looking at $700 added to the cost of your new totally awesome Ebay vette heads. Another reason why aftermarket cylinder heads sell.
Goodluck!