87roc_t56

It goes on after the sealer coat which can be epoxy if you wish. You will have to put body filler over any patches first though as the putty is not nearly as strong and will crack after a while if you just put it on over welds and patches directly. Most pro shops now are using the stuff. I was at Legendary Motor Cars in Milton a few weeks back and they use it extensively. I would also recomend a good quality sanding float and file board sanding block and do all the shaping by hand. I find Norton paper to be the longest lasting but Diamond Grit is okay too.

Cool ZR

I got my dad's truck primed on the weekend and it looks really good. I ended up washing it down with soap and water, then metal prepping it to remove any surface rust that formed ffrom the last process, scrubbed it with a scotch pad, and then cleaned it up with wax and grease remover. The paint went down really well. It went down so well that I got too confident and sprayed it a touch heavy in a few places, but otherwise looks really good

Now for the bondo fun.... I will look into that putty suff for a future project. This truck has been off the road for like 3 summers now so my dad is getting ancy to get it back on the road now that the mechanical is done and only the body is left!

Thanks for tips/help!

Cool ZR

87roc_t56

No problem glad to be of help.

Cool ZR

Hey,

I've recently had some bad luck.... I hit a racoon on my way home like 30 seconds from the house... It ripped the ground skirt off the car, spidered all the nose and then I ran over the lower skirt, cracked it and it flipped up and marked the rear valence..

I started stripping the bumper to find out it has been painted 3 times in it's life. The paint is coming off with a putty knife in huge sections, but the valley that runs left to right (93+ Z28) is very difficult to sand back to the urethane to get the cracking out. I asked about urethane stripper but some places didn't sell it and others didn't reccommend it.

Have you used it? or have any other way to stip it short of lost of time??

Thanks
Cool ZR

87roc_t56

I wish I could tell you there is an easy fix here but... The only good/safe way to ensure the cracks do not reappear is to sand them out by hand. You may be able to get it sand/media blasted but it is tricky to not damage the urethane so use caution if you decide to go this route. If you decide to sand it out buy a high quality sand paper like Norton start with a 120 grit until the top layers of paint are off then use a 180 grit and it won't take that long. Thats as far as you need to go if you use a quality primer it with flex it will fill the 180 scratches and not sink. Sometimes the cracks actually migrate into the urethane a little and those will need to be sanded out too. If you have a jitterbug sander it can be used for the flat spots. The quality sand paper makes a big difference in speed as it won't clog near as fast. Good luck

Cool ZR

I figured thats the answer I would get.... oh well one can wish for a quick solution. I am using the Norton paper, and it makes a big difference over the swap meet crap I had bought before b/c it was a good deal. *L* The funny thing with body supplies, is the better the deal the worse the product.

Is there anything you use to wrap the paper around that fits that valley nicely?

The bumper has a bunch of cracks in it, and I am worried about them migrating deeply, but they should just be able to be sanded out with some effort eh? The other thing I wanted to ask, what and who makes a good product to repair the small tear in the lower valence??

Thanks
Cool ZR