Pearl Z

Right now something isn't right with my motor. I don't know what I'm looking for (first build) so I am putting all my struggles up for you all to take a shot at...I'm seriously at a complete standstill with no clue where to go next to try to fix this motor.
Its been started maybe 20 times. Only a slight amount of driving done. Fresh rebuild.

Former 1991 305 TPI
383 2 bolt main roller block
Trickflow 23 degree heads
Comp 987 Springs
Comp 230/236 .510/.520 (.544/.555 with my 1.6 ProMags)
Comp Lifters
Melling M55A oil pump
SVO 30# injectors
Holley Stealthram w/BBK 58mm TB

1. There is much more metal in my oil than I'd expect from a hyd roller.

2. I have a loud valvetrain noise (SVO red tops are ticking very loudly....very loudly but I can hear another noise I think)

3. I'm only getting 10 PSI oil pressure at hot idle

4. At idle no oil is going to my heads throught the lifters...with RPM's a little starts to spit out.

5. JUST RECENTLY...I pulled the pass valve cover (see #4) and started the car it then started to backfire every 3 seconds!!! Replaced and it did not change. Before it didn't backfire.

6. All my plugs look different from another...some blacker than others.

7. #1 and #3 header primaries were much colder than the other 6

8. 'I think' some of my valves are opening less than others, this is just with naked eye.

9. Burns my eyes unless the timing is advanced a lot (I know this is probably chip related).

10. The other day I got a lot of rust on my pass side rockers (drivers has two breathers pass none; no PCV)

11. A little smoke coming out of my breathers (blow by?)

I also had a voltage problem (battery located to rear) but something else is going on for sure.


My friend came out and he thinks I got some bad lifters which could be causing all sorts of havoc. Possibly bad lifters?
We hooked up his scanner and all the electronics seem to be okay BUT...
his scanner kept cutting out saying no signal or something (something wrong here?)
Could my walls be washed down possibly?
Do you think I have a cam lobe(s) wiped?

I need any input here...some direction to go to fix this motor, I feel like selling the car

89Vert

you are going to need a custom chip for sure, no way your car is going to run any where close to right if at all with your mods and MAP
that cam on MAP is bad news unless you know your way around tuning custom chips, I just tuned a MAP car with a cam 1 step above stock and its tune was way out, still ran fine, average person probably couldn't tell, other the the exsessive fuel consumption but as far as it should run it wasn't even close
also did you change your injectors?

also sounds like you got some serious mechanical issues, I wouldn't run it any more, if you got money invested start tearing down and see whats wrong before you do so serious damage if you already haven't

if it was done at a shop, I'd be looking for warrenty

Pearl Z

A member of thirdgen.org burned a chip for me. I'm running 30# SVO injectors. I tried to run it on the 305 chip and NO WAY was that happening!

AZZKKER

sounds like the machine shop did not clean the block good enough after the machine work. all the metal that was still in the oil passages most likely clogged your lifters. also, did you make sure the oil pump is seated correctly, and that all the front and rear plugs are not leaking pressure? i have seen problem with the plugs in the timing cover area leak into the cover causing problems, but i would say the root cause is that the block was not cleaned well after machining.

i know its not good news, but that is what it sounds like to me.

Pearl Z

the block was machined and then assembled and it sat for a couple years before I got it. when I had it I covered it with oil many times butI guess it could be metal from the stroker clearancing.

Do you think this is a lifter problem and a new set of lifters would clear everything up?

If lifters can cause low oill pressure then I might be on to something.

Also, is there supposed to be oil squirting out of the rockers at idle???

AZZKKER

yes there is suppose to be oil flow up to the head at idle. new lifters might fix your problem, but you need to check the old ones to see if they are clogged. also, if they are clogged and you put new ones in and there is still metal in the block, you could have the same problem all over again.

i would take the intake off and check the lifters, then go from there.

Pearl Z

I'm thinking thats the way to go. Flowmatch the injectors, new lifters and if that doesn't work then out comes the motor. The last thing I wanted.

AZZKKER

once you get the lifters out, use an oil pump primer and run that to see if you can flush out all the crap. i cant stress how much the engine needs to be clean with oil flowing on the next start up, because you risk engine damage to the top end if it has low to no oil pressure, and you know replacing all this stuff adds up.
you might cut open the oil filter to see how much crud it traped to get an idea on how much debris could possibly be in the motor.

good luck

wbspoon

Here is my .02. I would not be as concerned about injectors as much as the lack of oil pressure. There are only a very few reasons why the oil pressure at idle is so low, and with the material in the oil, I strongly suggest that you look at "all" of the bearings. Cam bearing wear or misinstallation can starve the lifers of oil, but it is more likely rod or main bearing material that you are looking at. You can check bearings without pilling the motor if you have the ability to pull the pan and retorque bearing caps.
As far as the valves not opening, it sounds like those cylinders are weak or dead because the valve is not opening and hence no intake charge.
I don't know what your resorces are but this sounds like something that at best needs to come out of the car.

Pearl Z

It would be best to pull the pan, check the mains and check the rod bearings, check the oil pump and put in my high pressure spring but that requires me to lift the motor which I would have to get an engine hoist for.

How do you retorque rod bolts? I don't have a stretch gauge but do have TQ wrenches.

AZZKKER

a stretch gauge is not required. there are torque specs for the initial and specs for the re-tightening. use the the specs for the re-tightening. just make sure you use a thread lubricant on the threads and the bottom of the nut so you get the true torque reading.

BrandonKeith

I read that you have comp lifters.. Are they the CompR's roller lifters? There has been alot of issues with the CompR's lately with them coming apart. Comp Cams switched the design on the CompR's retainer clip.

Not a whole lot for ya, but something to look for. Definately pull the intake and have a look around.

Pearl Z

They are the 850-16 Comp Magnum lifters. Not the R's but I have heard of that problem they have been having.

I pulled the intake tonight and all looked well at first glance but there was a light film of fuel all over the inside of my plenum and intake runners. Holley Stealthram...that doesn't seem right.

s10er8

I think your rocker arms are too tight and the lifters aren't pumping oil, I have done this before and couldn't figure it out for weeks.

Try adjusting them with the engine running, back one off at a time until it starts to click then turn it barely enough to stop clicking and then tighten 1/2 turn more

white/blackss

thats the half *** way to adjust rockers and it makes a mess. use a feeler gauge and set the rocker arms to the proper clearance.

the oil pressure issue is NOT gonna have anything to do with the lifters. if the lifters were plugged it would raise the oil pressure way up. my sbc has a adjustable oil pump and it makes 45psi oil pressure at 220 degrees. something is very wrong in your engine. whats oil pressue when the engines cold?

i once had a small ford motor that did that and it was the cam bearings, they were never replaced when the bearings/rings were and somehow they were shot.

another thing is the fact that the motor sat for a few years, if there was moisture near that it will cause its own problems.


its only 11 bolts, pull the motor, your gonna have too anyway. have the bearings inspected by a machine shop that builds motors, dont ask the guy you bought it from. he may not wanna give u a refund and tell you there fine.