Pearl Z

Adjusting them with the motor running isn't really half assed (it takes just as long) but it isn't the "correct method". But it wouldn't make a mess with mine...no oil to the heads!!! I did start the car with the valve cover off and at idle nothing trickled out. With hydraulic lifters a feeler gauge isn't needed, especially to get them close enough to run very well.

Pulling the motor is a lot more involved than 11 bolts but its just about ready to come out anyway. I just accepted it needs to come out to properly diagnose this. Just got to get a hoist and seperate the bellhousing then pull it.

My oil pressure is at 60 PSI at start up and when hot gets to about 50 PSI with some RPM's. But at hot idle it drops all the way to only 10. I've heard 10 PSI for every 1000RPM is acceptable but this just worries me. I've heard that bad lifters can cause oil pressure problems and I've heard they won't make a difference.

I did notice that my oil pump driveshaft was rubbing a washer on the bolt right next to it. Machined a groove out of the shaft (unless the shaft was designed with this groove) and I think that was the source of all my oil contamination.

Hopefully it comes out smooth and I can get someone over here that knows more than me to look at it. I didn't want to pull the cam to inspect the bearings but I also should look at the walls so I think the heads are coming off too. FULL REBUILD HERE I COME!!!

Black305RS

you get a fals torqu reading from this. you need to make sure that the bolts and the holse they go into are completely dry otherwise you will get a false reading because the oil or thread lubricant is pusshing against the bolt as you tighten and causeing the torque wrench to read for example 15 ft/lbs when in actuality the bolt itself may be at 10 ft/lbs.(these are not specs for anything just example readings.

Black305RS

tighten them a 1/4 turn more not a half turn.

84firebird

way back you said you were going to replace lifters... i'm not sure about that, with non roller this is I dont know about rollers but I know that you cant use old lifters on a new cam, or change two lifters' positions on the cam lobes.

the wear patterns on the lifter and cam lobe are determined and made during break in, and since the cam is broken in, the lifters wont develop correct wear pattern.

i'd look into that, just my two cents

problem and cause just because most the posts dont go in depth

1. There is much more metal in my oil than I'd expect from a hyd roller.

after break in you change oil to get metal out, then 500 miles again, then normal oil changes, this is usually rings seating and cam pattern wear, mostly ring seating for first 500

2. I have a loud valvetrain noise (SVO red tops are ticking very loudly....very loudly but I can hear another noise I think)

rockers tick when loose, have no oil... and other reasons, springs will make some interesting sounds if they bind because of overlifting them.

3. I'm only getting 10 PSI oil pressure at hot idle

make sure your oil isnt breaking down from high heat, do what these guys are all sayin with the lifter checks etc. but maybe a good 10w-40 will keep your pressure up at hot idle

4. At idle no oil is going to my heads throught the lifters...with RPM's a little starts to spit out.

little oil will travel through the pushrods at idle, thicker oil will help, cleaning the holes in the pushrods will help, and low pressure is the main reason this should get fixed when you fix the pressure, but you need some sort of oil passing at idle, not a ton, but noticeable

5. JUST RECENTLY...I pulled the pass valve cover (see #4) and started the car it then started to backfire every 3 seconds!!! Replaced and it did not change. Before it didn't backfire.

probably knocked something that caused the backfire, plug wire, timing...

6. All my plugs look different from another...some blacker than others.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html
good site for plug diagnosis

could be ignition, fuel, valves, timing....

7. #1 and #3 header primaries were much colder than the other 6

primaries will cook when fuel is burning inside of them, usually because you're running too rich, don't touch primaries while running, but could be airflow and air cooling the others faster... could be a lot of stuff. check out the 1 and 3 plugs and the diagnosis

8. 'I think' some of my valves are opening less than others, this is just with naked eye.

check the cam, if you're going to wipe a lobe, you wipe it fast, could be valvetrain adjustment, could be illusion, could be seeing a split lift cam, are they all exhaust or intake valves that you notice?

9. Burns my eyes unless the timing is advanced a lot (I know this is probably chip related).

running rich, double check timing and marks, could be ignition voltage, or fouled plugs... you said some were black? well fouled plugs dont fire as well and advancing can get them to fire.... somewhat

10. The other day I got a lot of rust on my pass side rockers (drivers has two breathers pass none; no PCV)

low oil flow, gas in oil? fouled plugs usually dump some gas past the rings and into the oil, this'll cause crap to rust sometimes

11. A little smoke coming out of my breathers (blow by?)

blow by yea, sometimes gas and water in oil, water from the fact that the heat variance gives a bit of a moisture procuring environment, sometimes it's just oil that doesnt have high heat tolerance. I usually have some smoke blowing through breathers, and i had a friend with a roots blower that always blew smoke through the breather, strip em down and check em didnt find anything... in my experience it isnt a big issue

AZZKKER

my arp rod bod bolts instructions said to do this, and they recommend arp thread lubricant or a suitable motor oil. Tech manuals also say to do this. with head bolts, lubricate the bottom of the head only and use thread sealant on the threads, which will also act as a lubricant. a false reading will occur if no lubricant is used from the extra friction that will occur between the thread and head contact. they key is not to over saturate the threads, just put enough to work.

but don't take my word for it, call arp, they will explain it to you.

EDIT: i just re read your post, sounds like you misunderstood what i said, by bottom of nut i am talking about the mating surfaces like the bottom of the head on the head bolt and the head boss for the bolt, not to squirt a bunch of lubricant down a blind hole then tighten the bolt as this will yield the result you explained.

AZZKKER

as long as a new flat tappet lifter is installed, it will do no damage to the camshaft because there is no wear pattern on a new lifter, and the correct one will be worn into it at the initial 20 min of start up. with new lifters, the break in period for the cam needs to be done again.

with roller lifters, you can use new, old lifters in any position without damaging the cam or lifter. the reason is the roller on the lifter does not wear. but if one lifter needs replaced, i would go ahead and replace all of them just to be safe.

Black305RS

sorry i did misunderstand what you were saying.