Black6SpdTA

I'm picking up the car in January. I found a new rotating assembly for $800. Scat 9000, I-beams, forged pistons, balanced. I'm going to buy it. Saving up an extra 800 for the heads (Pro-Topline 200) will take a while. In the meantime how much would the engine suffer with stock heads? And would it be a pain changing heads while the engine is in the car? Thanks

-Corey

97WS6SCharged

Changing the heads in the car isn't that hard to do. The biggest part, in my opinion, is removing the accessories/brackets from the front of the engine. Once that's done, it's all pretty much straight forward.

Since you're already paying $800 for the Protoplines, why not spend an extra $200 for a nicer set of aluminum heads?

Sitting Bull

Why don't you port and polish those L98 heads and have terrific performance for a lot less? Follow the link at the end of my sig.

90rocz

Don't expect too much out of the 383 with stock heads and 350 style cam. It can really use much more air and much bigger cam events with tight lob separation to shine!...But you'll know you have some potential under the hood!...

97WS6SCharged

I'd say to wait and do it right the first time.

There's a reason aftermarket heads are more expensive than L98 heads... they work better. 15+ years of technological development.

formularpm

What heads are you refering to?

Black6SpdTA

I'll be using the cam for the 383 (07-305-8 I think). And for $1k, what kind of aluminum heads can I get?

Ok, how about this, while building the shortblock and getting misc. pieces for the swap, P/P the stock heads THEN change them when I get the money? I think that sounds like a plan.

-Corey

NOTE: I got pics of the donor car: www.cardomain.com/id/sixspeedinstall Go to page 4

Sitting Bull

That's a good plan.

But once you do a good job of porting and polishing the L98s you might not care about aluminum heads anymore and end up with an extra $1000 to spend on other things.

No kidding, lots of us have done it and surpassed the flow L31 Vortecs can provide.

Black6SpdTA

That'd be nice, but we'll see how it turns out. I've never ported or polished anything...I'm 16 with no experience.

Will the SLP runners be worth getting? Instead of just porting the stock ones that is. I figure by my 18th birthday (March, '05) I will be able to afford the Miniram...

Last thing:
What kind of horsepower/torque do you see at the wheels?
-383 Shortblock (2-bolt main, Scat 9000, I-beams, Forged Pistons)
-Ported/Polished L98 Iron heads
-Ported TPI setup with ported SLP runners
-Proper tuning
-30lb injectors
-CC 07-305-8 Cam (220/230 @.050 .510/.510" lift)

Thanks!

-Corey

97WS6SCharged

I know I'm going to catch it for this, but ditch the TPI intake and find an LT1 intake thats been drilled for a distributor. It will work alot better. As far as aluminum heads goes...

Edelbrock

350-60739
Performer RPM, Straight Plugs, 70cc, Complete (each)

$479.99/ea from Jegs

Or, my favorite...

Dart Pro 1's
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...DRT%2D11621122

$599.99/ea from Summit

Note, these heads have large intake runners that do not promote the high velocity air intake that a TPI intake requires. That being said, a TPI manifold will not allow these heads to see their full potential (especially the Darts).

Black6SpdTA

I'd love to, but whatever I get has to be emissions legal. That leaves me with the Superram ($800) and Miniram ($1100). I'll just save up and until then run the torquey TPI setup. So any ideas of rwhp/tq?

-Corey

Sitting Bull

You are certainly old enough to produce first class work in porting the heads, don't worry. Just follow the instructions laid out at the link I provided. Take your time because only time will produce the results you want. But it is NOT beyond your abilities

90rocz

If I didn't have much experience porting, I think I'd use inexpensive aftermarket parts for a healthy 383..
For an intake it would be; Holley Stealth Ram, hands down...roughly $300 for the intake and another $200 for the fuel rails.
For the heads; World Products heads are very tough to beat in the "Best Bang for the Buck" catagory...Which ones depends on what cam, what rpm, intake and intensions for the vehicle..it's always better to er on the small side to ensure throttle response and low rpm performance.
Usually for less than $800/pair if you shop....
I'd start with 26# injectors, that way you can use enough fuel pressure to get an excellently atomized spray pattern...too big might cause you to run a low fuel pressure that would be more like a stream than a mist...(exageration..)

Black6SpdTA

I can't/won't use a HSR. I need to be emissions legal!

The Pro Toplines I'm going to get are $800/pair fully assembled.

Would lower fuel pressure be more of a mist? Turn on your hose, low pressure, drops out. Put your thumb over it, higher pressure, stream-like.

90rocz

The larger the injector / the larger the opening..
If you have a spray nozzle for your hose use it and gradually turn off the water, don't adjust the spray nozzle, you'll see what I mean...
Do they check under the hood at your states E-Check station??B/c you'll pass the sniffer with the HSR....if you use a custom PROM to correct the fuel mix...30#ers will make it harder...