3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

what cam/head package should I get

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Old 09-09-2007, 11:51 PM
  #16  
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If you want the cheap route, get a set of aluminum L98 heads(about $5-600) and a zz4 cam.
If you want more potential down the road, go with AFR 195's and a bigger cam.

As for the LT1 intake and losing some low end torque, yes it happened to me. But the power after 3000 and up to 6000 is incredible. But the higher stall takes care of all that

The LT1 intake requires alot of work. If you can do everything yourself, go with that setup. If not for more $, go with the mini-ram.
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Old 09-10-2007, 01:07 AM
  #17  
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Carbs are great for a race car, but EFI is better for a street car that never sees 4500+ RPMs and that sees the race track once a month or less.

Since the Holley Stealth Ram came out for half the price, the TPIS MiniRam is practically worthless.
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Old 09-10-2007, 02:57 PM
  #18  
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i wouldnt even go with corvette l98 heads except for the higher compression.

for the cost of most L98 aluminum heads, you can have your stock L98 heads setup for screw in studs and do some minor porting/cleaning up of the ports and beat the flow numbers of the L98 aluminum heads. This is what i may do here soon just to see how much more power i can get out of this stock cammed L98
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Old 09-10-2007, 05:29 PM
  #19  
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Not a damn thing wrong with the SDPC Vortec TPI setups if you want to stay with an engine made for towing a camper as fast as possible.... Tuning something correctly seems to be the problem for 99% of TPI people.

StealthRam, AFR 195 Eliminators, 11:1 compression, Healthy Hyd Roller off the shelf of comp cams is what I'd do for a daily driver. Their 280XFI is a 230/236 Duration grind would make some noise and power to boot. .570" lift with a 1.6 rocker

When you're ready for a rebuild or 383 rebuild, these parts will still work great and will be slightly tamer on a 383 or larger engine. Focusing on bottom end torque is useless with a 4 speed auto and a 3200+ torque converter. Doing a long tube runner setup will cost you in the area of 50-100hp on the very top of the powerband.

If he's going this far with the engine, he needs to step up the torque converter to something in the 2500rpm range with a TPI style intake or somewhere near a 3200-3600 for a stealthram, higher rpm setup. You don't need to spend huge money here but getting it right the first time is really nice. $500 can get you a custom converter built for the car or up to $1000 if you go with higher end builders. Sticky tires are a must.

Goodluck!
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Old 09-16-2007, 08:17 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Orr89rocz
i wouldnt even go with corvette l98 heads except for the higher compression.

for the cost of most L98 aluminum heads, you can have your stock L98 heads setup for screw in studs and do some minor porting/cleaning up of the ports and beat the flow numbers of the L98 aluminum heads. This is what i may do here soon just to see how much more power i can get out of this stock cammed L98
But the iron heads still weigh 50 lbs more and you cant run as high of compression. But the flow difference between the two is so minor you might as well stick with what you have.
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Old 09-18-2007, 11:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Kevin91Z
But the iron heads still weigh 50 lbs more and you cant run as high of compression. But the flow difference between the two is so minor you might as well stick with what you have.
good point on the weight, it just wouldnt be worth it in my opinion to spend 400-500 dollars on those aluminum heads and not make that much more power. now if you ported them out abit yourself, they might be worth it with that higher compression... but then again you could spend 400 more dollars and get a set of aftermarket heads that could destroy the alum L98's.... its all in your budget and what power you want to make. either of the L98 heads is capable of making 400hp on motor and do so more easily once mildly cleaned up/ported.
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