Black6SpdTA

I've asked many people and am getting mixed opinions. I'm starting out with a 5-speed '92 and swapping to a T56. Here are my questions:

1. Do I have a hydraulic clutch? If so will I need the clutch hydros from an LT1 car? Would mine work?
2. Will my pedal assembly work?
3. Will my master/slave cylinder work?
4. I will have to get the crossmember (like the Spohn one) I know, but will I have to cut my floorpan/console?
5. For now, my TBI motor would be fine, as far as computer, correct? If/when I go TPI, would I need to get it programmed (where would this be done)?
6. Who knows how to fix the speedometer issue?
**Remember, I'm starting with a 305 TBI 5-speed car**

If I think of any, I'll post them but that's all for now. Thanks
-Rippin

Black6SpdTA

1. I now know that as for the clutch hydros, I could use mine but they may leak etc, so I'll get new ones from GM for 100 bucks
2. My pedal assembly will work (I thought it would)
3. Master cylinder is identical


6. Dakota Digital SGI-5 for 80 bucks
Now #'s 4-5...

TheGreatJ

1. Yes yours would work if you had a longer pressure line made.
2. Yes yours will work.
3. See #1. (Master and slave cylinders are part of the clutch hydros.)
4. Your shifter hole needs to be enlarged by about 2" toward the rear of the car.
5. You only need to have it programmed if you modify the engine. Programming has nothing to do with the tranny in these cars.
6. http://www.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=137054

Black6SpdTA

Thanks GreatJ. and sorry if I'm getting a bit annoying..

Slow91z

Please explain, I thought the master and slave cylinders worked fine w/a t-56

Black6SpdTA

Slow91z
Here's what he told me in another thread:

Rippin.....there is only one major difference in the clutch hydros. The high-pressure line for a T-56 is much longer than the T-5 piece. This is because the slave cylinder on a 6-speed mounts from the back to accomodate the pull-style clutch, unlike the T-5 slave which mounts from the front. You could get a piece of steel braided line and have the fittings from your stock pressure line put on it, but I don't see the point when you can buy brand new hydros filled with fluid and factory bled for about $100, and you won't have to worry about them leaking or going out from old age.

Slow91z

Y not just get some hard line and bend it yourself?? It's only hard brake line I thought (At least it is on every-other car I've ever worked on)....I have a automatic so it doesn't matter to me I'll just go ahead and use a 4th gen parts....Later

Black6SpdTA

Clutch Hydraulics: Do they include Master and Slave Cylinder? Or is a Master Cylinder for an automatic and Slave Cylinder for a manual?
TheGreatJ: Can you give me the part number for the hyrdos for 100 bucks? thanks

IgorT.455/406

Yes, I would like to know too, since I am going to have a T56 3rd gen now (see my last post).

Also, what about the McLeod adjustable unit you can buy? I heard they work really good and hit really hard. Thanks guys.

Slow91z

An automatic doesn't have any cylider's...The Slave Cylinder is on the bell housing, and it put's pressure on the clutch fork...The Master Cylinder is on the Fire wall, the pedal pushes a rod into the Master, therefore making fluid go in the line and puts pressure in the Slave, which moves the clutch fork, that pushes (or pulles) on the Throwout bearing, that pushes on the pressure plate, that releases the clitch....and the only thing connecting the Master to the Slave is a Hydraulic line

TheGreatJ

Clutch hydraulics consist of:
Reservoir---holds the spare fluid
Feed line---sends fluid from reservoir to master cylinder when necessary
Clutch Pedal---actuates master cylinder.....yes, 3rd gen pedals work fine with T-56 hydros and you don't have to cut them up to put them in...the only trick is that they have to come from a car with a hydraulic clutch ('82 and maybe '83 had mechanical clutches)
Master Cylinder---creates pressure in the system when the clutch pedal is pressed
Pressure Line---sends pressure from master cyl to slave cyl
Slave Cylinder---uses pressure to actuate the clutch fork which disengages the clutch

The T-5 hydros are identical to the T-56 hydros, except that the pressure line is different. The master and slave cylinders and the reservoir are all interchangable. However, the T-56 requires a much longer pressure line because the slave cylinder is mounted from the rear to accomodate the pull-style clutch. The T-5 slave mounts from the front to operate a regular-style clutch.

The T-5 uses a formed plastic pressure line and the T-56 uses a longer, braided steel line. The pressure lines have special fittings that use roll pins to hold the line into the cylinder. This is why you can't just bend some brake line to fit. You COULD take the plastic line out of your T-5 hydros, cut the fittings out of the ends, and crimp them into the ends of a braided steel line, but it may be prone to leaks and IMHO the savings aren't worth the trouble.

I got a brand new set of T-56 hydros from the local dealership for about $100 when I did the swap. I just walked up to the parts desk and said I needed the clutch hydraulics for a '95 T/A (that's what my tranny came out of.) They had to order them...it took 2 days. The hydros came from the factory filled with fluid and pre-bled. I just bolted them in. I don't have the part number but I'm sure any GM parts department can pull it up and order it.


Once again, this information is all for the T-56 that came stock in 4th gen LT1 cars. Aftermarket T-56's DO use T-5 style hydros and clutch. GM T-56's do not.



Any more questions?

TheGreatJ

Igor - I don't know anybody that has the McLeod hydros, but in my experience the stock LT1 hydros are more than adequate. The pedal is smooth and not too tight, even with a SPEC stage 3 clutch. After 2 years I have yet to see a leak or need to add fluid.

Slow91z

Wow....That is chincy as hell....I've never looked at a 3rd gen clutch car, but that setup sounds ignorant....Every clutch car I ever worked on and/or owned had a hard brake line....The braided line works though I like that.

TheGreatJ

The hard plastic lines aren't that bad...they dont tend to leak or anything...but yeah I think it's a pretty cheap setup as well.

I like the braided steel line because it's easy to move around to keep it off the headers.