Damon

Brad, take one thing at a time. You came in with oil-on-the-piston problems and possible detination issues. Start there THEN worrry about your tuning. Tuning issues did not put burnt oil on your pistons in 6000 miles. OIL DID. Where did it get in? There are basically 2 ways: Past the rings or through the intake valve. Rings should be fairly obvious. Coming in past the intake valve could happen several ways (shot guides, bad or wrong guide seals, or leaking past the intake gaskets or the rocker stud threads).

Look on the backs of the intake valves of the pistons that were badly oil-fouled. If the back of thise intake valve heads are all crusted up with burnt-on oil then it's coming past the intake valves. Note- you can consume a LOT of oil past the intake or rings and not really see much smoke out the tailpipe, so don't use that as your indication of oil consumption. I've had engines eating a quart every 500 miles with no visible smoke out the tailpipes.

Oil in the combustion chamber can DRAMATICALLY increase the engine's chance of expereincing detonation. Just a tiny bit can greatly reduce the efffective octane of the combustion mixture. That's you don't see many nitroused motors that burn oil last very long.

MAF equipped cars are very amenable to changes to the motor. They have a sensor that actually MEASURES how much air is flowing into the motor (unlike speed-density systems). As long as you are still using the same sized injectors that the chip was designed to work with it will do a fairly good job of keeping your A/F ratio where it should be for any streetable combo- until you max out either the MAF (which can't process flow rates over 255 g/s) or the injectors (over 90% duty cycle). Again, tuning is not your main issue, in my opinion. Oil control is.