What size carb for a 350
#1
What size carb for a 350
I test drove a camaro the other day, and i think i'm buying it, but I noticed one major thing wrong with it, and i'm startin to wonder what is wrong with it..it has a 350 crate engine in it(300 horses) and then he has a holley 750 carb on it...and when you take off, it feels kinda boggy, it doesn't snap really good like it should...Could this be because the carb is too big? How big should the carb be? From what I read, most people only have like a 600 or 650 carb on there...Could the slow take off be from the carb being too big, because it kinda sounds like the engine is getting flooded at first...And 1 other question, what would be the best carb for this engine (600, 650, 700, edelbrock, holley etc)..
#4
Is Holley the best? Cuase I've read some stuff that edelbrock is better for the street, because it is more consistance, and people say that holley carbs are really touchy, like when its raining out, they will run like crap..is this stuff true? And is Holley the best carb to buy or what?
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Teeter-tottering between Brilliance and Insanity
Posts: 1,292
Originally posted by klumb15
Is Holley the best? Cuase I've read some stuff that edelbrock is better for the street, because it is more consistance, and people say that holley carbs are really touchy, like when its raining out, they will run like crap..is this stuff true? And is Holley the best carb to buy or what?
Is Holley the best? Cuase I've read some stuff that edelbrock is better for the street, because it is more consistance, and people say that holley carbs are really touchy, like when its raining out, they will run like crap..is this stuff true? And is Holley the best carb to buy or what?
I think that a 750 could easily work on that motor, if its vacuum secondary. It also depends ont eh tranny, if your on a stock convertor, that will make you bog with a big carb. But if your running a manual or a decent stall you will be fine.
#6
everything is stock except the motor and the shift kit in the tranny....it is an automatic 700r4 with the shift kit in it...so if i get the car should I sell the 750 and buy a smaller one or what? I don't know much about it so I don't know if it's a vacuum secondary...
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Teeter-tottering between Brilliance and Insanity
Posts: 1,292
Originally posted by klumb15
everything is stock except the motor and the shift kit in the tranny....it is an automatic 700r4 with the shift kit in it...so if i get the car should I sell the 750 and buy a smaller one or what? I don't know much about it so I don't know if it's a vacuum secondary...
everything is stock except the motor and the shift kit in the tranny....it is an automatic 700r4 with the shift kit in it...so if i get the car should I sell the 750 and buy a smaller one or what? I don't know much about it so I don't know if it's a vacuum secondary...
#8
Originally posted by klumb15
everything is stock except the motor and the shift kit in the tranny....it is an automatic 700r4 with the shift kit in it...so if i get the car should I sell the 750 and buy a smaller one or what? I don't know much about it so I don't know if it's a vacuum secondary...
everything is stock except the motor and the shift kit in the tranny....it is an automatic 700r4 with the shift kit in it...so if i get the car should I sell the 750 and buy a smaller one or what? I don't know much about it so I don't know if it's a vacuum secondary...
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Teeter-tottering between Brilliance and Insanity
Posts: 1,292
Originally posted by transxtreme
If you plan on modding then keep the 750 and follow darthIROCs advice. Since the motor is stock and if you do not plan on modding then get the 600.
If you plan on modding then keep the 750 and follow darthIROCs advice. Since the motor is stock and if you do not plan on modding then get the 600.
#10
A 750 vacuum secondary will do fine on a 350. 750 double pumper, depends on setup.
Heads up: a lot of times with a th700, guys will not use the correct bracket for the TV cable on a Holley. So TV adjustment (critical on th700) is wrong. So the line pressures can be off. It makes the car feel weak, shift wrong, etc and it's burning up the clutches while this is all going on.
Heads up: a lot of times with a th700, guys will not use the correct bracket for the TV cable on a Holley. So TV adjustment (critical on th700) is wrong. So the line pressures can be off. It makes the car feel weak, shift wrong, etc and it's burning up the clutches while this is all going on.
#12
Depends how much you drive the car, if it were me, I would leave the 750 on, make sure its tuned right and go to like a 2800-3200 stall. Should work fine.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Teeter-tottering between Brilliance and Insanity
Posts: 1,292
Originally posted by klumb15
well the car is gonna be a daily driver, because being 17 you can't really afford having more than 1 car...so if its a daily driver, do you still suggest leaving the 750 on there, if I switched to say a 600 or something, would i get alot better gas mileage? Because every mile helps because he says the car gets around 10 miles to the gallon...I was looking at stalls on the internet, and just curious, what exactly do those things do? And they are like 400 bucks, are they really that worth it?
well the car is gonna be a daily driver, because being 17 you can't really afford having more than 1 car...so if its a daily driver, do you still suggest leaving the 750 on there, if I switched to say a 600 or something, would i get alot better gas mileage? Because every mile helps because he says the car gets around 10 miles to the gallon...I was looking at stalls on the internet, and just curious, what exactly do those things do? And they are like 400 bucks, are they really that worth it?
As far as the stall being important, a stall convertor is maybe the most important mod if you are running an auto trany. However, with a near stock tranny, it will shorten th elife of it. But honestly in the hands of a 17 year old the tranny wasnt gona last long anyway, so buy the stalll, and when it killsht etranny have it rebuilt tougher.
#14
Providing your 17, and want good gas mileage from a daily driver, I would get the 600 carb and not go with a stall. Not bashing darthirocs great advice but those basically turn the car into a weekened warrior. A stall is basically a torque convertor that allows the car to get to the stated RPM before the car will move. This allows you to have better launches. So your at a stop light, you will have to rev to the stall (2700 RPM or watever you choose) before you will move. With that 750 carb and that stall you will have horrible gas mileage. I say go with the 600 and no stall, you will still see good results.
#15
alright so the stall is out of the question, but I still wanna figure out why it is kinda doggy off the start...i was kinda thinking timing, this could make it boggy off the start, couldn't it? and about the tranny getting worn out, what would be a good automatic tranny that would just bolt in without too much fabrication? do you guys think i should buy this car, even if I don't really know what is wrong with it? I think its just a carb problem, but its a 90 camaro iroc z, a few minor body damage, but he probably has like 3000 bucks into the motor itsself, and I could probably get the car for 2700 or so(80,000 miles on body, 15,000 miles on motor)..is this a good deal you think?