Whats a good rear end?
#16
I'm running a 10 bolt in both the cars in my sig. The 85 Z28 runs mid 12s, while the 00 TA recently went high 10s, both NA. The Z28 has a budget/economy minded 355, and the TA has an aggressive H/C 346 setup. Both cars are full weight autos and run well for the mods because the combos were well researched
EDIT: I love FAST NA cars
#17
what do u mean "how retarded it looks" what could it look like? i guess im confused, but id like to see it
#18
The wheels/tires move outward nearly 2" per side. Not only do they stick out minimally past the quarter panel, but having a tire stick out like they do with the narrow width just looks dumb. If you're familiar with the Glen Burnie/Pasadena area I'll point you towards one of these turds.
#19
I got a rear from a 95 z28, 3.23 posi from crazy rays for $80 (minus the rotors and calipers). I just cleaned it up, and pulled the axles. Everything looks great, so I painted it and installed new seals and bearings. I got the LS1 style brakes to install on it, along with a new 1LE prop valve and LS1 master cly (my car currently has drum rears). I have ZR1 rims on my car now, so I'll just drop the rear spacer/adapters that I currently have on the rear.
#20
The wheels/tires move outward nearly 2" per side. Not only do they stick out minimally past the quarter panel, but having a tire stick out like they do with the narrow width just looks dumb. If you're familiar with the Glen Burnie/Pasadena area I'll point you towards one of these turds.
I got a rear from a 95 z28, 3.23 posi from crazy rays for $80 (minus the rotors and calipers). I just cleaned it up, and pulled the axles. Everything looks great, so I painted it and installed new seals and bearings. I got the LS1 style brakes to install on it, along with a new 1LE prop valve and LS1 master cly (my car currently has drum rears). I have ZR1 rims on my car now, so I'll just drop the rear spacer/adapters that I currently have on the rear.
Thanks!
#21
I got a rear from a 95 z28, 3.23 posi from crazy rays for $80 (minus the rotors and calipers). I just cleaned it up, and pulled the axles. Everything looks great, so I painted it and installed new seals and bearings. I got the LS1 style brakes to install on it, along with a new 1LE prop valve and LS1 master cly (my car currently has drum rears). I have ZR1 rims on my car now, so I'll just drop the rear spacer/adapters that I currently have on the rear.
1. The LS1 and LT1 axle assemblies are a different length. I went with an LS1 rear, and attempted to put LT1 brakes on it. It required a good bit of modification to fit - you'll have to do the same for LS1 brakes on the LT1 rear.
2. The 1LE proportioning valve is designed to work with a dual piston front caliper which you do not have. The LS1 master cylinder also is designed for dual piston front calipers. I would not use those parts!!
3. The stock master cylinder and combination valve for an original front disc / rear drum setup will work fine with keeping the stock front brakes and swapping to the LT1 or LS1 style rear disc brakes.
85305Z: As stated before the 93-97 rears are 4" wider than the 3rd gen rear, and the 98+ are almost 3.5" wider. The difference in widths between the 4th gens rears are where the brake interference issues come from.
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; 09-06-2007 at 03:33 PM.
#22
Just a couple of things:
1. The LS1 and LT1 axle assemblies are a different length. I went with an LS1 rear, and attempted to put LT1 brakes on it. It required a good bit of modification to fit - you'll have to do the same for LS1 brakes on the LT1 rear.
2. The 1LE proportioning valve is designed to work with a dual piston front caliper which you do not have. The LS1 master cylinder also is designed for dual piston front calipers. I would not use those parts!!
3. The stock master cylinder and combination valve for an original front disc / rear drum setup will work fine with keeping the stock front brakes and swapping to the LT1 or LS1 style rear disc brakes.
85305Z: As stated before the 93-97 rears are 4" wider than the 3rd gen rear, and the 98+ are almost 3.5" wider. The difference in widths between the 4th gens rears are where the brake interference issues come from.
1. The LS1 and LT1 axle assemblies are a different length. I went with an LS1 rear, and attempted to put LT1 brakes on it. It required a good bit of modification to fit - you'll have to do the same for LS1 brakes on the LT1 rear.
2. The 1LE proportioning valve is designed to work with a dual piston front caliper which you do not have. The LS1 master cylinder also is designed for dual piston front calipers. I would not use those parts!!
3. The stock master cylinder and combination valve for an original front disc / rear drum setup will work fine with keeping the stock front brakes and swapping to the LT1 or LS1 style rear disc brakes.
85305Z: As stated before the 93-97 rears are 4" wider than the 3rd gen rear, and the 98+ are almost 3.5" wider. The difference in widths between the 4th gens rears are where the brake interference issues come from.
2. I'll be putting on C5 front vette brakes.
Edit: My buddy did this 1LE prop and LS1 MC on his 91 RS with 1LE rear brakes and stock fronts brakes with no issues.
On a side note:
I won't have a parking brake until I modify some cables myself or someone offers them for sale, but since I have an automatic trans, I don't use it much anyways.
Last edited by krisb410; 09-06-2007 at 04:23 PM.
#24
got ya, thanks....but i guess if you find a wheel with the right offset then it shouldn't be a problem?
#25
A lot of people go with 4th generation F-body wheels when they put the 4th gen rear in. Like many others, I did the same, and put some 17x9 ZR1 style SS wheels on. The wheels are easy to come by and inexpensive. Some may say the ZR1 wheel is overdone, but they look really good, moreso on the 3rd gens... If you want to go this route, you will need spacers/adapters for the front wheels. You can find more info at www.skulte.com
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