will 2 bolt hold?
02-20-2004, 02:54 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Clinton, MS
Posts: 162
will 2 bolt hold?
aight you all know what i've got 383 eagle kit no heads or cam yet, but my block is a two bolt main, i've already had it machined and the bearings installed. I've just started worrying about the strenght of the block. any opinions welcome.
Thanks,
Derrick
Thanks,
Derrick
02-20-2004, 07:22 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Southwest Iowa
Posts: 87
Well, you left out the most important factor. How much power is it going to make? Its almost impossible to gauge exactly how much a given block can take, but given a well-balanced rotating assembly and some restraint on the redline, Id say you should be good to 500hp. This is just a ballpark figure, however, so dont take it as anything else. Id be sure everything else is strong before you worry about the block.
02-20-2004, 07:29 PM
#3
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Location: Mooresville, NC
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Originally posted by formularpm
Id say you should be good to 500hp.
Id say you should be good to 500hp.
That's the number I've heard. Although every block is different, that should be an acceptable ballpark figure. I've also read that 2-bolt's can be spun faster? No verification though, just word of MOUF 
02-20-2004, 09:43 PM
#6
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Posts: 3,249
Well, that all depends. If you have sonic checked the block for core shift and did all the machining like you should, LPE will use a cast crank and recon rods for up to 500HP. I figure it can't be too bad because they give a 2 yr 24K warranty on it.
02-24-2004, 04:31 PM
#14
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Location: So.Cal on the Best coast
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I may be off base here ,but doesn't RPM's have something to do with this matter,seems I heard something about this awhile back and up to a certain RPM two bolts hold just fine,I may be wrong but is something to check out.
02-24-2004, 04:46 PM
#15
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Location: Columbus, OH
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Generally, a 2 bolt is good for 450-500 hp and about 6100-6300 rpm. Above that RPM, the main caps can "walk" in some cases causing funny things to happen to the bearings.
Oliver (as in Oliver connecting rods) makes billet front and rear main caps (and splayed mains as well) to work as a set. Or, GM used to sell a billet front main cap (and the rest if you need them. That is what I put on the 1995 block that I did with splayed main caps, Milodon mains and a GM billet front cap with ARP studs.
Again, these are "rule of thumb" numbers and can vary.
Oliver (as in Oliver connecting rods) makes billet front and rear main caps (and splayed mains as well) to work as a set. Or, GM used to sell a billet front main cap (and the rest if you need them. That is what I put on the 1995 block that I did with splayed main caps, Milodon mains and a GM billet front cap with ARP studs.
Again, these are "rule of thumb" numbers and can vary.