Paul94Z28

So lets say you decide to upgrade your LT1 front brakes to LS1 front brakes one day...

1) And you remove the driver side spindle with a combination of hammering on the top and a fork on the bottom ball joint (making it necessary to replace as you have destroyed the grease boot).
2) You rent the press to remove the bottom ball joint and it basically breaks the joint, removing the innards and leaving the outer shell in the control arm.
3) You need to remove the control arm the get it to a machine shop to have the remnants od the ball joint removed. You look at it and notice the back bushing is pretty much shot. You get the front bolt off, and the back nut off, and realize it may be impossible to get a wrench on the top of the back bolt as your shiny new pacesetter long tubes are blocking access.

How would you get the control arm off? Would you just replace the whole thing, or try and rebuild it?

Any thoughts or comments appreciated.

Lets just say this upgrade has been quite a slippery slope, much like my heater hose into long tube project last year...

GREGG 97Z

Wow, I'm getting ready to do this swap in the next week or two, this thread doesn't get me too excited, lol. I guess I should add a set of ball joints to the list. My car sits most of the time anyway, if my swap goes awry it's not a big deal. Hoping mine goes a little smoother though.

Paul94Z28

Hey Gregg-

Good news, I am only 1/2 screwed right now. I did get the rest of the ball joint out in a fit of rage.

The rear bushing is still frozen though. The nuts came off with no problem.

looks like another $50 per side for control arm bushings.

No huge rush to get this done but would like to drive the car sometime. I was down most of last season with a stripped posi and the long tube upgrade...

GREGG 97Z

That's better news. I'm thinking I should just start hitting everything with PB Blaster now too get ready, lol

shoebox

To remove tapered joints (like ball joints, tie rods, etc.), use the "shock" method. You will notice cast-in flat places on the sides of where the tapered joints fit in the steering knuckle. Place a large hammer for backup on one side and smack the other side with another hammer. The shock and vibration will pop the tapered joint loose for disassembly. Be careful when dealing with ball joints where spring tension is present. Make sure you account for what will happen when the joint comes loose. It is usually a good idea to loosen the castle nut, but not take it completely off (so things can't accidentally fly apart).
No pickle forks (torn boots) and no ball joint press to rent or buy.

GREGG 97Z

Thanks for the tip Rob, I'll be sure to try that method when I install mine.

Paul94Z28

Rob-

Is there a secret to getting the rear bolt out of the front control arm? The bushing is shot in that one. I installed long tubes and clearances are kinda tight in that area. I am soaking it like crazy. I don't understand, the front one practically jumped outta there.

shoebox

I have not had to remove that. Injuneer might have a tip. He's been through the bushings on his car.

dangalla

sounds like the inside of the bushing is "frozen" to the bolt, i am assuming that the bolt will not turn freely, it will turn but snaps right back to where it is

if that is the case there is no easy fix or way out, keep spraying it down that will help. if you have access to a oxy acetylene torch i would try to heat it up, just be prepared because the bushing will light on fire

hopefully someone will have some input on how they did it too

Paul94Z28

That is exactly the case. The bolt will not turn and the inside of the bushing is frozen to it. I already found out that the bushing burns The rubber part is pretty much cleared away now, seems too deep to get a sawz all in there

88irocz28

+1 on using the shock method to separate the spindle from the lower ball joint. I just replaced the lower ball joint and control arm bushings on my car, and tapping the side of the spindle with a hammer was far easier than jamming a pickle fork in it. Like the OP's predicament, my caster adjustment bolts were frozen in place too, i.e. rusted to the metal sleeve in the bushing. There's no point in trying to get a wrench around the bolt head because these bolts use a locking tab that keeps them from spinning when tightening things up. Keep soaking it with PB blaster, thread the nut back on and try a mini sledge on it. The heat from a torch will help break the rust bond but be prepared for the bushing to burn. Mine wouldn't budge even with a mini sledge and I was lucky enough to have an air hammer to drift the bolt out. Make sure you coat the bolt in grease before reinstalling it.

GREGG 97Z

I finally got started on my install today, been pretty busy lately. The shock method worked excellent on the tie rod end, and the upper and lower control arm bolts that hold the knuckle on. The only one that required some serious hits with the hammer was the large lower control arm bolt. I didnt use a pickle fork on any of them, they all popped apart nice with this method, didnt need to replace any bushings. I got the 98+ knuckles but was reusing my stock spindles. Realized the four stock bolts that hold the spindle to the knuckle arent really long enough, have to get longer ones. Going pretty smoothly other than that though. Just thought I'd mention how well the shock method worked for me, thanks for the tip Rob!

shoebox

Paul94Z28

Greg-

Sounds like you are off to a much better start than I am.

I got a mini sledge and no luck so far.

GREGG 97Z

I only did the driver side so far, it went very smooth. My car has pretty low mileage, 62k, I'm sure that helps some. Could have finished the pass side today but working on the car doesn't go over real well with the wife on mothers day, lol.