383 D-1 w/ LS1 coil packs and no more opti
#1
383 D-1 w/ LS1 coil packs and no more opti
Woooo Hoooo
There are a few of you out there that know what I've been up to and I'm physched to report that my Z/28 is now running on all cylinders
It's a 383, Callies crank, Oliver forged rods, JE Pistons, CNC heads, CC305 cam, D-1 15# w/ 3 core intercooler in the nose and custom 4" solid intake tube, F.A.S.T, T-com w/ Vigilante multi disc t/c and I've eliminated the opti.
I'm running an E-dist box w/ LS-1 coil packs, MSD crank trigger and MSD cam sync.
This is not the easiest setup to get going but it's running and I'm picking it up tomorrow.
Pics are at www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/383coilpacks.html
and www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/cranktrigger.html
Thanks go out to New England Dyno and Tuning www.nedyno.com and SRA Transmission for getting it running.
I was working with Quest racing and they messed it up.....hence the reason it hasn't been running all season. They kept dicking me around as they run a Pro-mod car (that can't qualify and when it does (once in the last six events) it gets blown out in the first round) so the world would stop whenever a pro-mod even would come around and they would not finish my Z. It was at their shop for 4 months before I yanked it out of there. They kept stringing me along and telling me next week, next week until I had it towed out of there it would only run on 5 cylinders (didn't think I wanted an Audi) anyway......they had the magnet in the wrong place so it would not pass under the cam sync so after one cam pulse and two crank trigger pulses it would fire and then when the next cam pulse cam around the cam pulse was so weak it would have to find itself again and wait for three more pulses so it would drop three cylinders (1,8 and 2). Well after taking it apart we moved the magnet so it would pass under the cam sync and we were getting a good cam sync pulse, then we had to move it again as it was overlapping into the next cycle, plus they had the polarity backwards and a few other things were outa whack.
I'll take some current pics over the weekend and post an "it lives" video also.
Just wanted to let you all know it can be done
Marc
There are a few of you out there that know what I've been up to and I'm physched to report that my Z/28 is now running on all cylinders
It's a 383, Callies crank, Oliver forged rods, JE Pistons, CNC heads, CC305 cam, D-1 15# w/ 3 core intercooler in the nose and custom 4" solid intake tube, F.A.S.T, T-com w/ Vigilante multi disc t/c and I've eliminated the opti.
I'm running an E-dist box w/ LS-1 coil packs, MSD crank trigger and MSD cam sync.
This is not the easiest setup to get going but it's running and I'm picking it up tomorrow.
Pics are at www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/383coilpacks.html
and www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/cranktrigger.html
Thanks go out to New England Dyno and Tuning www.nedyno.com and SRA Transmission for getting it running.
I was working with Quest racing and they messed it up.....hence the reason it hasn't been running all season. They kept dicking me around as they run a Pro-mod car (that can't qualify and when it does (once in the last six events) it gets blown out in the first round) so the world would stop whenever a pro-mod even would come around and they would not finish my Z. It was at their shop for 4 months before I yanked it out of there. They kept stringing me along and telling me next week, next week until I had it towed out of there it would only run on 5 cylinders (didn't think I wanted an Audi) anyway......they had the magnet in the wrong place so it would not pass under the cam sync so after one cam pulse and two crank trigger pulses it would fire and then when the next cam pulse cam around the cam pulse was so weak it would have to find itself again and wait for three more pulses so it would drop three cylinders (1,8 and 2). Well after taking it apart we moved the magnet so it would pass under the cam sync and we were getting a good cam sync pulse, then we had to move it again as it was overlapping into the next cycle, plus they had the polarity backwards and a few other things were outa whack.
I'll take some current pics over the weekend and post an "it lives" video also.
Just wanted to let you all know it can be done
Marc
Last edited by 1st and goal; 11-01-2002 at 09:29 AM.
#2
Awesome!
I'm glad you got it going!! I know you've been down well over a year now, and your dying to get out of that cav..
Would you mind giving us a list of part numbers? I want to get mine swapped over this winter, I personally don't think the opti is up to supplying adequate spark for 1000(ish) horsepower..
I've been having problems with my car missing at WOT @ 5500+ rpm, and I think it may be ignition related..
Anyway, congrats Bro~ I know you've put alot into it!
Would you mind giving us a list of part numbers? I want to get mine swapped over this winter, I personally don't think the opti is up to supplying adequate spark for 1000(ish) horsepower..
I've been having problems with my car missing at WOT @ 5500+ rpm, and I think it may be ignition related..
Anyway, congrats Bro~ I know you've put alot into it!
#3
Glad to hear its running. Gotta be worth the wait. Why is it these big shops feel they can just jerk everyone around for months?
Do you have any measure of what the "resolution" is on the cam sensor? I realize it only needs to indicate when the cam has made a complete revolution, but is the signal accurate to 1deg, 5deg ????? Just curious. I'm not familiar with what the magnet or the sensor looks like.
Do you have any measure of what the "resolution" is on the cam sensor? I realize it only needs to indicate when the cam has made a complete revolution, but is the signal accurate to 1deg, 5deg ????? Just curious. I'm not familiar with what the magnet or the sensor looks like.
#6
Marc, I was told to expect a couple weeks for my front cover cam sensor modification and it's now been a month and a half (probably closer to two) and it's not back yet. I'm not sure who it was sent to, since Mark is handling it, but it doesn't seem like it should take so long. Apparently you experienced some of the same "teething pains". Hopefully they'll get mine set up correctly on the first try.
Congratulations on your engine. It looks factory issue with the coil packs on the valve covers. Unfortunately my hood clearance and tall valve covers won't allow me to mount the packs there. Sure makes it look clean and professional, though.
Congratulations on your engine. It looks factory issue with the coil packs on the valve covers. Unfortunately my hood clearance and tall valve covers won't allow me to mount the packs there. Sure makes it look clean and professional, though.
#7
Thanks guys
Let me see what I can round up for part numbers.
I am friends with Dean from New England Dyno and Tuning and after my experiences I would not recommend him putting together a kit for this as this is a pain in the ***.
In speaking with Buddy from SRA the wave form takes about 15 degrees to go up and down.
The cam sync needs a minimum of .7 volts, when I got it back from Quest it was producing .2 volts, now it is producing 1.2 volts.
I'll be posting some pictures and a video tomorrow.
I ended up waiting till tomorrow morning to pick it up as the car is a few hours away from my house and I had some issues with the lights working on the trailer I was using so what's one more day ?
I'll post more pics and details tomorrow.
Marc
Let me see what I can round up for part numbers.
I am friends with Dean from New England Dyno and Tuning and after my experiences I would not recommend him putting together a kit for this as this is a pain in the ***.
In speaking with Buddy from SRA the wave form takes about 15 degrees to go up and down.
The cam sync needs a minimum of .7 volts, when I got it back from Quest it was producing .2 volts, now it is producing 1.2 volts.
I'll be posting some pictures and a video tomorrow.
I ended up waiting till tomorrow morning to pick it up as the car is a few hours away from my house and I had some issues with the lights working on the trailer I was using so what's one more day ?
I'll post more pics and details tomorrow.
Marc
#8
Marc, Are you still running the 4L60E trans with your F.A.S.T. EFI? I am going with Fast with my new 383 and was wondering if you have to use some type of jumper harness to retain the factory pcm to controll the trans.
#12
kit
It not that easy to put a kit together cause of the parts involved and there are a lot of issues that can't be resolved byt the do-it-yourselfer, like the exact placement of cam sync and magnet.
Also the kit cost is out of reach for most people.
Fast/Speed-Pro or Motech approx $2000
8 coils $230
2 harnesses $30
edist box $300
and misc brackets screws new plug wires.
The kit gets expensive.
John Denver Fast Track Performance makes a harness that you can splice the Fast/Speedpro in to the factory wiring and still use the factory computer for the tranny/ac/instrument panel etc...
Rob
96 Z28 SS
396 LT4 w/ NOS and Fast/Speedpro
Also the kit cost is out of reach for most people.
Fast/Speed-Pro or Motech approx $2000
8 coils $230
2 harnesses $30
edist box $300
and misc brackets screws new plug wires.
The kit gets expensive.
John Denver Fast Track Performance makes a harness that you can splice the Fast/Speedpro in to the factory wiring and still use the factory computer for the tranny/ac/instrument panel etc...
Rob
96 Z28 SS
396 LT4 w/ NOS and Fast/Speedpro
#14
JD,
Try www.fasttrackperformance.com
Brady,
I'll be in touch when I get back to the good old US of A as I need to look into that for ya
Marc
Try www.fasttrackperformance.com
Brady,
I'll be in touch when I get back to the good old US of A as I need to look into that for ya
Marc