Ryan94ZA4

Well, I did a search on what you told people to set the trans tables at and here is what I found:

1. what ever you do make sure you program the PCM for your mods so the transmission can live

And here's another good one:

2. Guys if you have not seen me post on this before it could be news to you. Your PCM has the power to kill your transmission in one pass If it is not programed correctly.

The moment you start changing the power out put of your car the PCM needs to be reprogrammed to match or it has no chance in hell to live.

Many early failures were related to the installation of a larger throttle body. This throws the entire power input curve off and the transmission has no chance to live.

You MUST program for power!

Oh, wait, THIS must be it!!

3. As far as making his trans live it will all be in his skill's. Parts selection helps but if you put them together crappy you wasted your time. Then he will need to learn how to use a tuning aid like LT1 Edit or TunerCats. Because no matter what parts you put in it if you do not program it CORRECTLY you are wasting your time.




Sorry, Ellis, but this is about all I can find that you have posted. I can't find a way to import any of the above into my transmission tables and make them work. Maybe I'm just reading wrong??????

Ryan

TurboSS

first off

who is your trans builder?

second

you need to know what is borken not guess or think you know
have your builder put a broken part in your handz and axe-plaine it to you

third

ever think about callin Chuck at FLP?

Notes:

IMHO any 4l60e that is going to live behind a turbo LT1 NEEDZ at least $2200's in parts tossed at it and some qualitly labor or dont even expect it to live. See below Then it needs to be tested and installed programmed loged and reprogramed. Adding the TransGo Vacuum modulator 46-MOD is a must as well as a trans cooler with the GVW cap for a aircraft carrier.

Looky

QUICK305

While I don't have any "technical" input, I can share my experience, which was similar to yours.

I bought my Z28 about a year and a half ago with 99k miles on it. I knew that any LT1 car that had that kind of mileage was going to need trans attention sooner or later. During my test drive, the trans shifted firmly and quickly, and hit all the gears like it should, so I figured it had been rebuilt before. I drove the car like that for about a month, and one day I hit it from about 35mph, and the engine free wheeled.

I checked with a lot of local transmission shops, and I finally decided on a place that seemed knowledgeable and supposedly had 700R4/4L60Es in 11 and 12 second cars, so I figured it would be fine for my bone stock LT1. To make a long story short, after about 4 attempts and (cumulatively) several weeks' time, I realized the transmission just wasn't going to stay together, even in my bone stock LT1 car. I ended up getting my money back from the guy (he was cool about it), and brought the car to the dealer for a SRTA.

Anyway, just my rambling...you aren't the only person who has had problems keeping a rebuild together behind a basically stock car. Good luck!

Ryan94ZA4

first off

who is your trans builder?*** Larry at CS Transmission. His career was working at GM Powertrain so he knows these transmissions like the back of his hand.

second

you need to know what is borken not guess or think you know
have your builder put a broken part in your handz and axe-plaine it to you*** We'll find out tomorrow for sure what is bad. However, I trust his judgement in saying the front sprag failed. He recently diagnosed a car over the phone as having a bad rear planet. he was right on the money.

third

ever think about callin Chuck at FLP? *** I tried to contact Dana at Pro-Built as recommended by another member and I guess I was just wasting his time. I e mailed instead of calling so he could get back to me at his leisure without compromising a customer elsewhere. Never heard back. Now I'm nervous about calling anyone else as I figure they'll have the same attitude.


Notes:

IMHO any 4l60e that is going to live behind a turbo LT1 NEEDZ at least $2200's in parts tossed at it and some qualitly labor or dont even expect it to live. See below Then it needs to be tested and installed programmed loged and reprogramed. Adding the TransGo Vacuum modulator 46-MOD is a must as well as a trans cooler with the GVW cap for a aircraft carrier.*** OK. I think I have all the parts you have pictured in that minus one or two. Here is what I have in mine: Art Carr Super Input Drum, Art Carr Super Sun Shell, Kevlar band, upgraded 3-4 clutch pack with blue clutches, upgraded pump, upgraded pump slide spring, new soft parts elsewhere in trans. Only parts that are from the previous trans are: Rear planet, sprags, valve body, input and output shaft. The valve body has been upgraded and the accumulators were removed because he said that would give a quicker shift. The shifts are not harsh, just quick like a manual valve body trans is.

96PolicePkg

This post might be helpful. A user 12SCNDZ said he could put together a "bulletproof" 4l60e for $800. I believe somewhere in the post he has a list of all parts needed.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...&threadid=6132

BTW I'm curious..in your sig you have "Vortech" listed, but you keep saying your car is "near BONE STOCK" from my simple understanding a Vortech would add a few ponies and hardly qualifing your car as near bone stock. Anyways check out the post it might help.

Ryan94ZA4

The Vortech is not installed on the engine. The only mods right now are cold air, exhaust and PCM tune.

New engine, however, will have a TurboTech kit with a T76..... That's why I want to get this thing to live; because it's getting ready to have a little harder life.