98-02 front clip on a 93-97
11-02-2002, 12:00 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Collinsville IL
Posts: 162
98-02 front clip on a 93-97
i've seeen this done like 3 times or so what is needed is it just the hood and front bumper and the clip... do you need new fender or anything?? because i need a new front bumper and i was wondering since i want a new hood to why not just to do this!
11-02-2002, 08:51 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Akron/Canton Oh, USA
Posts: 533
He is rigth. You will need the front clip, both fenders, hood, headlights, foglights, and the bumper
Speed Automotive will see the whole kit, except the hood, for around 700 bucks...i think. They have an auction going on right now for the parts, currently 600.
Speed Automotive will see the whole kit, except the hood, for around 700 bucks...i think. They have an auction going on right now for the parts, currently 600.
11-02-2002, 11:00 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Allentown-Quakertown-Whitehall-Pottstown, PA
Posts: 123
I copy and paste this to everyone..I don't know how much it will help you. gigamp3z@hotmail.com
For the factory steel hood (no ram air) go to ls1.com and go to the classifieds section and type WTB: Factory Non Ram Air Hood Cheap...you could prolly get one for like 100 bucks or real cheap used.
The headlight wiring was easy, what you have is the old 5 wire setup off your 94, you can see the 2 wires coming of your old motor and new motor..so just tap those into where they used to go on the car (you will need to cut the connectors off and just run the wires together with a wire stripper or something). Then you have the other 3 wires (high beam, low beam, and i think a ground), just match the colors up there. When you do this and your lights are up wind them down all the way manually (when i did the wiring..mine were up) so when you turn the switch on in the car you have no problems (just a precaution).
The front turn signals and side markers they are a piece a cake (you just twist the bulb into the plastic whole on both the turn signal housing and side marker housing.
Before you redrill the foglight holes save yourself the trouble and just cut the wires off the foglights and bring them down out of the car and drill them on a bench or something. After u drill the foglight holes (instructions below) extend the wires about 8 inches to 1 foot (on left and right sides)..that will give you more than enough room and then it gives extra slack for turn signals because they are all in same area and use same wiring harness it seems.
I couldn't see buying new fogs from the dealer when they cost and arm and a leg. The foglights for my 94 would sit to far foward in the front fascia (looked like crap)..so i wanted the factory look so what i did was redrilled the holes about 1 1/4-1/2 inches infront of the old holes..then bolted them back in with the 2 bolts for each fog bracket..looks real good now and was easy.
It doesn't look like you can use ur existing motors, and when i bought my headlamp assemblies..they were together with motors in them and looked hard to take apart (put together really nice and allow for adjustablility)
The piece that stretches between the headlights that the top of the bumper secures too, you might be able to make it yourself, but it will be hard, because your kind of guessing the sizes you need to make it. I would just buy the piece..it was prolly lik 40 bucks tops..its a piece of plastic like 1 1/2 feet long..it can't be that much. It can be welded in tho if u get a custom piece made.
The front impact absorber..i hacked mine up because i wanted to get started and frogot to get the new 98+ style..it took forever...cutting ends off, cutting front off, trial fitting, etc. I bet it took 1-2 hours for that..those impact absorbers are hell to cut even with a saw-zaw. You can use your old one...it will save you about 80 bucks new. The foglight holes in the old absorber do line up with the new front piece. If i did the front end again, i would prolly buy a new one. When u rip your old one off, buy 2-4 5" or so bolts with some nice washers to bolt the new absorber on (u will see what i mean)
The fenders can be adjusted up and down. When i got my hood my fenders needed to be pulled in on the top about 1/2 on each side(i needed to pull them in closer to hood). So i didn't worry i went and bought a box of washers and put about 3-4 together with some scotch tape and stuck them up the back to pull the fender in, then ran the screws through them (the screw would puncture through the scotch/clear tape yet still hold the washers together). When putting the fenders on take out the inner fender well (around tire) so you can get to a piece that holds the center of fender (behind vents). Just hand tighten and tighten it fully when done aligning fender. I had some problems with the door rubbing the fender..this one screw makes a difference..just pull out the fender even with door and tighten that screw and i had no more rubbing of the door.
You don't need to replace any radiator supports or anything (maybe it was a crashed car..and he needed to do fix that..i know of one guy that did the front end change on a once wrecked 95 formula and he replaced the radiator support).
If you go out to your car now and look at where the top of the fenders meets the top of your door..near the mirror. Plan on stealing the bracket off that fender (you will need to drill out rivets) and mount only the upper half (the "L" part) on your new 98+ fenders.
The underskirting of your car is basically the same for the 98+ years..so that stuff fits decently..2 or 4 holes don't line up but it fits in the area pretty much perfect. So no need to worry.
Gm hasn't changed the 93-2002 f-body platform..so the new 98+ trans am front will on a trans am/firebird (93+)
here is a pic of a headlamp assembly..thats how they come from gm. (minus the yellow cover on top..those are medal and are ordered separately) http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...11_JPG_jpg.jpg
here is a picture of the owner of these pictures wiring up his stationary lights (a picture for you to see how easy the wiring is)
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...14_JPG_jpg.jpg
here is a picture of that plastic piece..see the 3 plastic rivets that hold the bumper on to this piece..(i didn't use plastic rivets..i went and bought bolts and washers)
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...20_JPG_jpg.jpg
if you look to the somewhat upper left of this stationary headlight picture you can see where the headlamp assemblies, the cross member piece will bolt up, and how they bolt up.
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...13_JPG_jpg.jpg
and here is a pic of stationary of headlights that just came out...
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...es/a17_JPG.jpg
AND A PARTS LIST....
2 fenders
Hood (can use old hood parts..they work fine)
headlamp assemblies
headlight covers
headlamp covers
front bumper
turn signals (they are complete housings..so they are easy to put in)
u need a new impact absorber (can hack ur old one up..but it takes forver)
need cross piece thats holds bumper on and runs between lights
redrill ur existing foglight brackets so they sit back farther
then all u need to do is splice into ur old wiring harness (still a 5 wire setup like ur old lights)
For the factory steel hood (no ram air) go to ls1.com and go to the classifieds section and type WTB: Factory Non Ram Air Hood Cheap...you could prolly get one for like 100 bucks or real cheap used.
The headlight wiring was easy, what you have is the old 5 wire setup off your 94, you can see the 2 wires coming of your old motor and new motor..so just tap those into where they used to go on the car (you will need to cut the connectors off and just run the wires together with a wire stripper or something). Then you have the other 3 wires (high beam, low beam, and i think a ground), just match the colors up there. When you do this and your lights are up wind them down all the way manually (when i did the wiring..mine were up) so when you turn the switch on in the car you have no problems (just a precaution).
The front turn signals and side markers they are a piece a cake (you just twist the bulb into the plastic whole on both the turn signal housing and side marker housing.
Before you redrill the foglight holes save yourself the trouble and just cut the wires off the foglights and bring them down out of the car and drill them on a bench or something. After u drill the foglight holes (instructions below) extend the wires about 8 inches to 1 foot (on left and right sides)..that will give you more than enough room and then it gives extra slack for turn signals because they are all in same area and use same wiring harness it seems.
I couldn't see buying new fogs from the dealer when they cost and arm and a leg. The foglights for my 94 would sit to far foward in the front fascia (looked like crap)..so i wanted the factory look so what i did was redrilled the holes about 1 1/4-1/2 inches infront of the old holes..then bolted them back in with the 2 bolts for each fog bracket..looks real good now and was easy.
It doesn't look like you can use ur existing motors, and when i bought my headlamp assemblies..they were together with motors in them and looked hard to take apart (put together really nice and allow for adjustablility)
The piece that stretches between the headlights that the top of the bumper secures too, you might be able to make it yourself, but it will be hard, because your kind of guessing the sizes you need to make it. I would just buy the piece..it was prolly lik 40 bucks tops..its a piece of plastic like 1 1/2 feet long..it can't be that much. It can be welded in tho if u get a custom piece made.
The front impact absorber..i hacked mine up because i wanted to get started and frogot to get the new 98+ style..it took forever...cutting ends off, cutting front off, trial fitting, etc. I bet it took 1-2 hours for that..those impact absorbers are hell to cut even with a saw-zaw. You can use your old one...it will save you about 80 bucks new. The foglight holes in the old absorber do line up with the new front piece. If i did the front end again, i would prolly buy a new one. When u rip your old one off, buy 2-4 5" or so bolts with some nice washers to bolt the new absorber on (u will see what i mean)
The fenders can be adjusted up and down. When i got my hood my fenders needed to be pulled in on the top about 1/2 on each side(i needed to pull them in closer to hood). So i didn't worry i went and bought a box of washers and put about 3-4 together with some scotch tape and stuck them up the back to pull the fender in, then ran the screws through them (the screw would puncture through the scotch/clear tape yet still hold the washers together). When putting the fenders on take out the inner fender well (around tire) so you can get to a piece that holds the center of fender (behind vents). Just hand tighten and tighten it fully when done aligning fender. I had some problems with the door rubbing the fender..this one screw makes a difference..just pull out the fender even with door and tighten that screw and i had no more rubbing of the door.
You don't need to replace any radiator supports or anything (maybe it was a crashed car..and he needed to do fix that..i know of one guy that did the front end change on a once wrecked 95 formula and he replaced the radiator support).
If you go out to your car now and look at where the top of the fenders meets the top of your door..near the mirror. Plan on stealing the bracket off that fender (you will need to drill out rivets) and mount only the upper half (the "L" part) on your new 98+ fenders.
The underskirting of your car is basically the same for the 98+ years..so that stuff fits decently..2 or 4 holes don't line up but it fits in the area pretty much perfect. So no need to worry.
Gm hasn't changed the 93-2002 f-body platform..so the new 98+ trans am front will on a trans am/firebird (93+)
here is a pic of a headlamp assembly..thats how they come from gm. (minus the yellow cover on top..those are medal and are ordered separately) http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...11_JPG_jpg.jpg
here is a picture of the owner of these pictures wiring up his stationary lights (a picture for you to see how easy the wiring is)
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...14_JPG_jpg.jpg
here is a picture of that plastic piece..see the 3 plastic rivets that hold the bumper on to this piece..(i didn't use plastic rivets..i went and bought bolts and washers)
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...20_JPG_jpg.jpg
if you look to the somewhat upper left of this stationary headlight picture you can see where the headlamp assemblies, the cross member piece will bolt up, and how they bolt up.
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...13_JPG_jpg.jpg
and here is a pic of stationary of headlights that just came out...
http://www.zbaron.com/images/TAlight...es/a17_JPG.jpg
AND A PARTS LIST....
2 fenders
Hood (can use old hood parts..they work fine)
headlamp assemblies
headlight covers
headlamp covers
front bumper
turn signals (they are complete housings..so they are easy to put in)
u need a new impact absorber (can hack ur old one up..but it takes forver)
need cross piece thats holds bumper on and runs between lights
redrill ur existing foglight brackets so they sit back farther
then all u need to do is splice into ur old wiring harness (still a 5 wire setup like ur old lights)
11-03-2002, 09:18 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Allentown-Quakertown-Whitehall-Pottstown, PA
Posts: 123
yeah..i had it on there..i just added the cam/headers/clutch after the auction. Its running strong..but I still want to get rid of the false engine knock im getting with my cutout.
-Corey
-Corey
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
carguyshu
Parts For Sale
20
01-22-2017 11:19 AM
Caps94ZODG
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
25
10-02-2003 06:30 AM