How do you mold ground effects?
10-07-2003, 12:09 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Surprise, AZ
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Cool. What do you mean by fisheyes? Never heard that term, is it like orange peel or something? And what is the basecoat, the basecoat of paint right? If so, the body shop can do that.
Do you have any idea who sells fibertech?
Do you have any idea who sells fibertech?
10-07-2003, 04:09 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 48
I dont recommend using Fibertech like I did, it does not sand very well at all... If you plan on sanding this all by hand I hope you have a whole lot of time free.
If you use FIbertech its for fiberglass repair for spoilers, gfx, etc. You should use like 80 grit then 100 then 220 then 320 or so. Then after all that you can put on another coat to fill all the thousands of air bubbles and gaps because you will have to put on about 6 layers of the Fibertech to achieve the proper conture of the body. This stuff dries quite quickly and it will begin to roll on itself when you try to smooth it out accross the body creating tons of gaps that will need to be filled again later when you go to sand it all down.
And btw Fibertech does not bond to Duramix (so it says on the label) so you need to make sure to prep the surfaces very well in the cracks of the gfx and the body of the car.
I do recommend you use Duramix 2 part epoxy resin (you will need to buy or rent a special gun dispenser for it) Its ~50 bucks a tube you will need about 2 of them if you apply it liberally to the surfaces. Once it dries the bond it makes is very solid so be sure to have everything set up around the car to prop up and shim the gfx. I did not remove the bumpers for this I put the car up on 4 jack stands and did each side one at a time. If you use this method I recommend using duct tape about every 6 inches on the gfx as you epoxy it to the car to secure it in place along with any 'braces' or 'shims' to support the weight of the gfx.
Duramix adhesives and Fibertech are specialty items that can only really be found in autobody supply stores. I bought all my products at a local place called Wesco autobody supply. If you want the numbers for the exact Duramix and Fibertech I used I can get them for you later tomarrow.
Lemme know if any of this didnt make sense its like 2am
If you use FIbertech its for fiberglass repair for spoilers, gfx, etc. You should use like 80 grit then 100 then 220 then 320 or so. Then after all that you can put on another coat to fill all the thousands of air bubbles and gaps because you will have to put on about 6 layers of the Fibertech to achieve the proper conture of the body. This stuff dries quite quickly and it will begin to roll on itself when you try to smooth it out accross the body creating tons of gaps that will need to be filled again later when you go to sand it all down.
And btw Fibertech does not bond to Duramix (so it says on the label) so you need to make sure to prep the surfaces very well in the cracks of the gfx and the body of the car.
I do recommend you use Duramix 2 part epoxy resin (you will need to buy or rent a special gun dispenser for it) Its ~50 bucks a tube you will need about 2 of them if you apply it liberally to the surfaces. Once it dries the bond it makes is very solid so be sure to have everything set up around the car to prop up and shim the gfx. I did not remove the bumpers for this I put the car up on 4 jack stands and did each side one at a time. If you use this method I recommend using duct tape about every 6 inches on the gfx as you epoxy it to the car to secure it in place along with any 'braces' or 'shims' to support the weight of the gfx.
Duramix adhesives and Fibertech are specialty items that can only really be found in autobody supply stores. I bought all my products at a local place called Wesco autobody supply. If you want the numbers for the exact Duramix and Fibertech I used I can get them for you later tomarrow.
Lemme know if any of this didnt make sense its like 2am
10-07-2003, 04:19 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 48
How did you shave the nose emblem Mach5, just sand it off? And how did you do the door locks? Did you use the fibertech stuff, and just put it on over the locks, or remove them first. Thanks guys
With the locks you can apply over them if you dont want to pop them off and just sand it smooth. But if you pop the locks off you will need to put a backer behind the opening so you can pack the filler into the hole etc (Like what BigKerneL44 was saying).
With the antenna I had to epoxy a little plate on the inside before I started applying the filler on the outside to get it perfectly smooth.
BTW - When you smooth these surfaces with about 320 grit you will need to spray all the surfaces with primer to make sure you got every single pin hole, the primer allows you to see it 10X easier and you can fill the pin holes with some like rock chip fixer stuff that comes in a tube and just lightly sand it down by hand to make the surfaces nice and clean throughout.
Hope this helps. I will try to develop some pictures soon and get them up. I dont have a digital camera.
I'm glad someone else has molded their kit seamlessly themselves. Kick *** ! And you are right about the primer. It lets you see any lil flaws.
10-07-2003, 09:21 AM
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 3,007
Originally posted by notstock4long
You guys have a link to this duramax stuff? It sounds cool.
I want to mold the sides on, but I don't see how you would do it where the fender meets the door, since there is a vertical gap there. If one of you guys could take close up pics of stuff like that, that would be awesome, like where the gfx connect in the wheel wells, and the seams.
You guys have a link to this duramax stuff? It sounds cool.
I want to mold the sides on, but I don't see how you would do it where the fender meets the door, since there is a vertical gap there. If one of you guys could take close up pics of stuff like that, that would be awesome, like where the gfx connect in the wheel wells, and the seams.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...98_32_full.jpg
Here it is months later.. almost finished:
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_951_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_329_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_328_full.jpg
Front and sides, pretty much done:
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_827_full.jpg
Last edited by pu12en12g; 10-07-2003 at 09:44 AM.
10-07-2003, 11:32 AM
#21
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 1,152
Do they sell the microspheres on that sight too, because I couldn't find them? And why not go with the 1/32 fiberglass?
Do I need to buy the resin, and that MEKP stuff too Bigkernal? And how does primer help, I thought it was dull, so it wouldn't do much for seeing it better or anything. I think I am going to order some of this stuff on Friday, but it keeps getting more expensive.
Do you guys know of any sites that talk about fiberglassing in general, becuase I am going to be writing a paper on this as I do it, and I need sources.
So you think I should go with SMC duramix for glueing the gfx on, and shaving the door locks and rear side markers? Or should I use something else since those are metal? Thanks a lot guys.
Do I need to buy the resin, and that MEKP stuff too Bigkernal? And how does primer help, I thought it was dull, so it wouldn't do much for seeing it better or anything. I think I am going to order some of this stuff on Friday, but it keeps getting more expensive.
Do you guys know of any sites that talk about fiberglassing in general, becuase I am going to be writing a paper on this as I do it, and I need sources.
So you think I should go with SMC duramix for glueing the gfx on, and shaving the door locks and rear side markers? Or should I use something else since those are metal? Thanks a lot guys.
10-07-2003, 03:08 PM
#22
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: NYC, NY
Posts: 776
my two cents, the bird on your front bumper is just a sticker, it'll pop right off and then there is only paint work needed to fix any discoloation below it.
Fibreglast.com has some really good write ups on glass work, I would look there as it's very informative
UScomposites is another places you can get the microballons at
Fibreglast.com has some really good write ups on glass work, I would look there as it's very informative
UScomposites is another places you can get the microballons at
10-07-2003, 04:05 PM
#23
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fabulous Lucerne Valley Ca USA
Posts: 459
I personally wouldn't do it...Too much chance of damage if you scrape or hit them. The car cracks as it is with regular shaving and stuff after a while, trust me. I have a fullblown show paint job by a SUPERpro shop and still have problems. Glad I did not do it myself.
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10-07-2003, 09:43 PM
#24
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Surprise, AZ
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Yeah, thanks for advice casanova, and in a year I will probably be saying that you were right, but I am gonna try it anyway. Like I was just telling my dad, I'm 18, and I didn't but this car to be economical or 'smart'. I want to make it the exact way I want it, and I will pay the consequences when the time comes.I am just gonna have to be careful whenever I go somewhere that has a steep incline to the parking lot or anything. I am droping insurance this week so I can have everything worked out, and let it sit for a good chunk of the winter to see if it will crack or anything, and make repairs if I have to. Thanks for the help guys
10-07-2003, 09:44 PM
#25
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Originally posted by nov194
my two cents, the bird on your front bumper is just a sticker, it'll pop right off and then there is only paint work needed to fix any discoloation below it.
Fibreglast.com has some really good write ups on glass work, I would look there as it's very informative
UScomposites is another places you can get the microballons at
my two cents, the bird on your front bumper is just a sticker, it'll pop right off and then there is only paint work needed to fix any discoloation below it.
Fibreglast.com has some really good write ups on glass work, I would look there as it's very informative
UScomposites is another places you can get the microballons at
10-08-2003, 12:46 PM
#27
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: NYC, NY
Posts: 776
I guarantee that if you have the stock front bumper (not sure on the aftrmrkt ones) that the bird is a sticker, it a raised textured vinyl sticker that will come off with a putty knife, and with your fingernail if your front end hasn't been repainted and the sticker covered too. A new one from the dealer is 26.75 and the part number is 1251 4358, it's the same for all firebirds, formulas and TAs from 93-97. If you don't believe me look it up. I realize that it doesn't look like a sticker, I though the same as you until I replaced a few on a few cars, but it is in fact a really cool 3D sticker. I have a couple laying around right now lol
The MEKP and resin is going to depend on how much glass you use, fiberglast has a nice chart that you can get a rough idea for
The MEKP and resin is going to depend on how much glass you use, fiberglast has a nice chart that you can get a rough idea for
10-08-2003, 01:29 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 3,007
Durability:
For what it's worth, I hit a deer after my front clip and sides were molded, and the front clip held up perfectly. My left ground effect slammed into the ground, and was just barely damaged at the corner seam/weakpoint. The durability of the stuff will be the LEAST OF YOUR CONCERNS VERY SOON TRUST ME.
You may have the materials you need but I can assure you you have no concept of the time and effort it takes to get it right THE FIRST AND ONLY TIME, because once this stuff dries it's done. So it is either permantenly perfect, or permanently ****ED.
I thought it SOUNDED fairly simple too, attach the ground effects, mold them seamless... I cannot caution you enough, about how hard it is to do IN REALITY.
For what it's worth, I hit a deer after my front clip and sides were molded, and the front clip held up perfectly. My left ground effect slammed into the ground, and was just barely damaged at the corner seam/weakpoint. The durability of the stuff will be the LEAST OF YOUR CONCERNS VERY SOON TRUST ME.
You may have the materials you need but I can assure you you have no concept of the time and effort it takes to get it right THE FIRST AND ONLY TIME, because once this stuff dries it's done. So it is either permantenly perfect, or permanently ****ED.
I thought it SOUNDED fairly simple too, attach the ground effects, mold them seamless... I cannot caution you enough, about how hard it is to do IN REALITY.
10-08-2003, 07:42 PM
#30
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Location: USA
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Ok notstock, I'm doing my best to help ya out here.
Here are some photos of the seamless molded sideskirts (primered and dusty):
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_982_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_983_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_984_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_985_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_986_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_987_full.jpg
Notice how there is NO OVERLAP, they are seamlessly integrated into the lower side panels of the car as if they were one piece.
This tells you that you can't attach the sideskirts like normal and then mold them on, because as attached like normal, there would be a overlap.
This also tells you that the kit is going to have to be modified to fit, and it is going to sit 1/2 inch to 1 inch lower than the typical wings west sides (which I think you can see in the pics).
Here are some photos of the seamless molded sideskirts (primered and dusty):
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_982_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_983_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_984_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_985_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_986_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...8_987_full.jpg
Notice how there is NO OVERLAP, they are seamlessly integrated into the lower side panels of the car as if they were one piece.
This tells you that you can't attach the sideskirts like normal and then mold them on, because as attached like normal, there would be a overlap.
This also tells you that the kit is going to have to be modified to fit, and it is going to sit 1/2 inch to 1 inch lower than the typical wings west sides (which I think you can see in the pics).