tjwong, I also work for Intel and actually probably made some of the AN28F512's when they were still in production if I remember right. We make so many different flash devices. They've been out of production for a while. Anyway, when we lose our PCM's (basically your losing the flash on the chip), it depends on how far you've got through on your programming. the first 50% of th eprogramming cycle is for one chip, and the second 50% is for the other. So say you lose it at 75%. I believe then that one chip is ok and the other is lost because it didn't get completely programmed. Someone can correct me if i'm wrong here cause i'm still learning. Andrew at AKM has a quick check to find out which chip you lost. You don't need to pop in new chips. You can re-flash the originals. You just have to make sure you put the right chips in the right boards because the .bin on each of them is different. I tried using Andrew's .bins and they didn't work for me. But what I did do was take the .bin file off each chip in my backup PCM and saved them. The .bins were complete with my program on them also. So, when I reprogrammed each of the bad chips I had, I basically flashed each chip with my complete .bin files therefore not even needing to program after putting the PCM back in the car. If Andrew has .bin files that do work though, you would need them to start off with first if you don't have a copy of your flash chips current .bin files, then you would program your current cal file into the PCM. If you get socketed, then I would pop the chips out and do a read on each chip with your e-prom programmer, if you have one, and save them incase you ever need to reflash. It's a lot easier. I don't know about that initiation bin or hex file. I'm thinking Andrews bins may just be a copy of a stock LT1's flash chip bin. Then you would have to put your own cal file on them. If this is the case and the initiation bin exists, then it would already be included in Andrews bins or a copy of your own if you make it. And if I didn't already answer your other question, Yes, I do flash the chips with files before installing them in the PCM since I have original copies of my flash .bin files. Hope this helps you out. Let me know if you have any more questions and i'll try and help if I know about it. Still on a learning curve with this stuff myself.

Ken R. 95Z

 

Thanks for the info,

The files that I got from Andy are just files that has enough to get the PCM talking again. Enough so that it can communicate so that you can flash them with your own calibration.

When you removed your chips did you use a heat gun to remove them as in Andys description on his website? I looked at them in my personal PCMs which at this time are working fine. I have several on hand and up to know I had not thought of socketing or reading the chips. I was worried to use a heat gun at 800 degrees to remove the chips without damaging them. I do have a prom programmer that can read and program these chips. So did you use a desoldering tool to remove them or the heat gun as Andy describes?

It sounds like your method of removing and reading the original BINs is the way to go. I got two files from Andy, one for the "T" and the other for the "E" chip, and I do have the check that Andy describes as to how to determine which chip is corrupted.

I have always in case of failure gone back to GM and purchased another at dealer cost of about $100. I would then use their SPS system to download a GM flash into my TECH2 and then flash the PCM at home as I have a bench programming setup.

But as stated in my previous post the remanufacturer that Delphi has chosen is not one I would care to use. Before Delphi had always gave us quality remanufactured PCMs to work with. I bet now you are wondering why I have several PCMs on hand... Well I don't tune for a living but I do a lot of it as a hobby. In the last couple of months I think I burned over 30 proms for different applications and helped several guys in the local F & Y body clubs here with some tuningissues.

My friend has three general repair shops and I get a lot of work from them, either tuning for mods in GM cars and trucks or adding a blower to a F body or a GM SUV. At one time I was going to purchase a chassis dyno that I found here in town but due to the uncertainty of our present economy I chose not to invest about $20k at this time. So thats why I have a stack of ECMs and PCMs for F & Y cars here in my little shop. Not to mention a supply of various Eproms and EEproms. I am working on getting a supply of these flash memory chips soon as well just in case to have on hand when needed.

Thanks for your help.

 

tjwong, I didn't do the re-socketing myself. Tunercat did it for me the last time they had to fix my PCM's. Thats when I decided I didn't want to depend on anyone else to fix them because it started to be a pain. So I bought the eprom programmer and socket and now do it myself. I've seen Andrews procedure on removing the chips. Don't know how it would work though, but obviously it must since he did a lot of re-socketing himself. As far as his .bin files for the T and E chips to get them talking again, I did try them, and they seemed to program in fine, but when I went to read the PCM, it wouldn't communicate. And it never worked until I programmed the copy of the original .bin files in each flash chip with my cal file already in the .bin also But that might have been the eprom programmer software version that I was using. I have the same programmer as Andrew and he was saying that he also had the same issues with this programmer software version. He is using an older version that seems to work better then the newer version. Anyway, good luck.
Ken R. 95Z

 

Rougedriver

Would you mind to send me your two bin files for your flash chips? I would like to add them to my bin library. I am in the process of removing a set of flash chips from a Corvette PCM to read the files stored into them. I beleive that the Vette chips will have a different file in them because of the difference in hardware. I would appreciate it if you could send me the a copy of your files.

 

I am having the same problem, the files that I got from Andrew arent communicating, could you send me the ones from your 95z?? pthompson@userid.net

 

Sorry to bring up this thread, but I have a question..

I know there are 2 chips in a '94-'95 computer, so if I've got a file, how are you going to program them, do you have to split the file for the two chips, and burn them separately?
I live in Hungary, and I just found a programmer for like $30

Thanks!

 

Each chip has it's own seperate (and different) .bin file and you burn them seperately. You can't mix them up either. The right file has to be on the chip and the chip has to be in the right board when you reinstall them.

Ken R. 95Z

 

Alright,

I'm about to come out of the pocket for the pocket programmer. I found the website for the programmer ($150), but I need to know where to get the "socket" that I can solder in place of the chips. (to put the chips into)

I'm also going to need the hex files to put on my chips in case of the "ol pcm'o getting stucko".

Whats the price on this socket also?
Can we get spare chips?

Thanks,

David Moss

 

You can buy spare chips from me if you want. And if you send me your BIN I will program them with your file. Email me off list if interested.

 

are most of the people killing pcm's flashing in the car or on a desktop programmer. i trashed 4 pcm's before building my desktop programmer. i have flashed about 100 times after without a problem. i think there are too many variables programming the pcm on the vehicle. it is a little pain to remove and carry it into the house but it beats changing chips every five or ten flashes.

 

Seems like for the most part it is when people program their PCMs while it is in the car. I am like you using a bench harness for tuning. I also connect my 12v power supply to my PC UPS as well just in case.

Another thing even when a dealer who flashes your PCM in the car has been known to crash a PCM once in awhile. Even though the use a GM TECH2 scan tool download a PCM file to your PCM, if the car battery dies or if the cable is somehow disconnected, the very same thing happens to them. I repaired a couple PCMs for my buddys dealership when that has happened to them here in Portland. Yes they could have just got another PCM but the warehouse was out of them at that time.

So it was either buy one from me or have me fix it. The customer that owned the car decided to have me fix it so he could have a socketed PCM, it seems he knew about the advantages of it at the time.

 

I've done mine about 10-15 times so far and haven't had a problem.

I use Windows 2000 on a Dell Inspiron 7500 (400Mhz Celeron, 256MB Ram). When I do the flashing, I have absolutely every application shutdown including virus software. I also plug my laptop's charger into a wall outlet for extra protection.

I've managed compter networks for 18 years or so and know that if anything can go wrong with a computer, it will, and at the most critical time. You have to do everything you can to make sure that nothing will interfere with the programming process.

 

pocket programmer......

1. Can I also use this to program the proms in my 1993 chevy truck?

benchtop harness.....

1. Does someone have a picture of a complete benchtop harness?

2. Will it match the diagram that the link sends me to?

3. I'm not trying to be choosy, but I'm about to build one and want to do it right.

4. I need to know also how my PC cable end attaches also.

sockets.....

1. where to buy my sockets from. I'm sure that I'm going to need more than one.

2. extra chips? (thanks tjwong)

I'm going to flash my new PCM today, so I'll see how fast I need these things today.

Thanks yall

David Moss

 

Ok so I took apart my 95 PCM and its next to me, I see 2 flash chips, one on each side. I dont see what everyone is talkinga bout with the "E" chip and "T" chip. I just fried the chips yesterday with tunercat, and my friend has an EEPROM programmer, so what files do I need to place on each flash chip, and where do I get them. Thanks in advacnce

 

I wouldn't recommend doing this unless you or your friend have at least average soldering skills and access to a heat gun and a soldering iron with a fine tip. Also make sure that he has a PLCC32 adapter for the programmer. If you have all that, you can email me and I'll send you the right files.

The T chip is the chip on the board with the BLUE and WHITE connector and the E chip is on the other board.