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That's funny I just finished reading the Scanner Reading .pdf b4 I came back here just now. Btw, anyone willing, the latest hardware from Chevy above is solid. The "authentic" FTDI chip/board is probably why. All I really wanted was to recognize a value that screams oh oh. Your .pdf was very helpful for my rudimentary brain. Ironically, there are zero codes (kinda disappointing lol). I could've sworn the check engine light was there a couple of weeks ago. Maybe the pump replacement fixed it.
Btw, you guys kind of scared me on Gary's current MIA status so I started trolling the web earlier looking for info on him. I got side-tracked though when I found him on another forum (LT1LS1.com) when his scan app was so new he was still getting advice on what to name it. Pretty cool.
Since I already have the 16 pin OBD1-wired usb cable I just built for my '95, can't I just attach a 16 pin to 12 pin adapter for my '94?
I've seen plenty of the pre fab 12 pin male OBD1 to 16 pin female OBD2 but I can't be certain the pin crossover(s) are done correctly. I suppose it's not a very complicated setup. OBD1 is basically one data & one ground.
The next post below are screen grabs of my scan yesterday of my '95 Camaro. If anyone sees some ahhhh or aha! data feel free to comment.
Your 94 has the code “S” L32 V6 engine???? Why didn’t you put that info in the first post….. were we supposed to guess, did it not seem important to you? The topic you are posting in is specific to the LT1 V8? How did you even find out about the V6 version?
Please note that the scanning guide I linked is specific to the LT1 engine, and includes a caution that it does NOT apply to other engines.
Ok, in my defense, below is basically the same info I posted on several forums this past week. The info below was relevant in those threads as I was still troubleshooting. As a matter of fact, one of my posts in here (#553), comments how I was finally satisfied with the final assessment from a couple GM experts. Which, if you read it, assumes the below information was already posted on this forum also. Which, given the topic, would not be appropriate for this forum topic anyway. Makes sense now why no one replied to #553. Your LT1guide, btw, was just used as a reference for me to understand some of the acronyms which are universal. Finally, btw, the app was modified to work with a v6. It's even written in the download string. Why does that matter in you assessment. As long as I used the correct v6 app the variables/values should be valid.
I tried to keep fairly comprehensive notes as I went along. My Scan9495 (OBD1) hardware should be here soon to read some useful codes.
I have a '95 Camaro loaded with jen-u-wine blk leather, Bose, T-tops, etc. and a crappy 3.4L with 125,000 miles. It hasn't been started in prolly 6 years. Needed/needs a new cam. Number 1 intake cam lobe had worn prematurely but it still started, grant it, on 5 cylinders, but it still started. I used to start it every week until I stopped caring. I didn't want to spend $1500 to replace it at the time and I was pissed.
That said:
⦁ I live in a very humid area so interior fuse block/fuses was pretty corroded. The new pump wouldn't even purge after install until the pump's 10amp fuse connection was cleaned at the fuse block. I had to scrub every individual connection and stuck electro grease in each slot just in case. I've been using tons of those little dehumidifier containers from dollar tree for the last 5 years to absorb most of the humidity.
⦁ I put a relatively new 15 gallon tank with 4 gallons fresh gas in it, a new battery, a new TRQ pump, and a new fuel filter.
⦁ The relay tests good (resistance & power). I also used a different relay from my other (running) '94 just in case.
⦁ The first new TRQ fuel pump I installed had 40+ lbs. pressure to rail at 3 second start-up then back to 40+ while cranking. However, after 6 or 7 seconds of cranking, pressure dropped to 0 and stayed no matter how long you kept cranking. However if you turned key back and then on again (re-priming), 40 lbs came back again momentarily as b4.
⦁ After putting in second new TRQ pump in, pressure also went to 40+ lbs but this time it stayed at 40+ the whole time while cranking. Strange. However, pressure still drops immediately when you stop cranking.
⦁ Not ever having ANY pressure retention since starting this project, and to eliminate the pump check valve from the list, I setup my own little modded fuel line tap. I bypassed the plenum/rail system (return line, etc.) completely. I was curious to see if the pump and the single stretch of supply line from the tank/filter to the rail quick connect would hold any pressure at all. It did. It went to 70lbs pressure and stayed. Initially, I accidently held the jump wire to power too long at first to charge the pump. For some odd reason, in my brain, I guess I thought since I never saw the pump go higher than 40 lbs, that it would magically stop all by itself, even though I had just bypassed all/any safety measures to protect the pump, duh. The homemade rig I made was solid except that the 8"piece of fuel line I needed from O'Reilly's didn't seat super tight in the supply line quick-connect "spring". All of their (O'Reilly's) short steel lines have that soft vinyl protective coating which was probably why it wasn't as snug as it could have been. Ironically, the lack of snugness was the only reason I monitored "holding" the power supply wire lead to the battery post at all. I didn't know if that little piece of fuel line would pop out or I would have just attached the alligator chip to the terminal as before during previous troubleshooting and overcharged it even more.
⦁ The rail Schrader valve does have a leak but its not gushing. At first, it looked like it was leaking around the Schrader valves base but I think its just leaking through the needle seal and its just creeping up and over external threads onto the base.
⦁ The "Canister Purge Valve" near the fuel rail was completely clogged with what looked like hard-packed charcoal granules. Easily cleaned though. Its just a vapor line so that may affect with the idle later but it should not be relevant right now, I assume.
⦁ I've used about a half can of carb cleaner over a few different attempts and she sucks it all in and coughs like she really wants to start. I don't have a noid set in my toolset so I'm definitely going to get a set manana. The needle valve in the Schrader was a bit corroded on the end/tip when I pulled it check on the seal.
⦁ The steel line side of the quick-connect at beginning of the rail system was a bit rusty inside. Not flakey chunk rusty like the fuel tank was but oxidation in something that's supposed to be oxygen-free is no bueno. The whole rail system needs to be removed and cleaned obviously. I can't imagine the injectors aren't beyond saving either.
⦁ Can you give me some advice on anything else I should do or expect beyond the by-the-book instructions while tearing into plenum? Btw, if the noid(s) light up the injectors then the ECM is probably functioning correctly, yes?
Possible issues left:
1. Bad regulator (no fuel in regulator vacuum line but it could be that not enough fuel ever circulated through rail to indicate faulty diaphragm, idk).
2. Fuel injector O-ring leak
3. Schrader valve O-ring leak? UPDATE: Replacing today before I tear into fuel rail/injectors.
4. Stuck open valve due to flawed cam.
I was glad to hear Gary was safe. Why is he so salty towards this forum? He seems like an invaluable asset for this site, especially given they're down to a handful of regulars.
Anyone recognize useful information in the above screen grabs? Given my extensive knowledge, imho, the values all fall within acceptable limits. Thoughts?
Anyone recognize useful information in the above screen grabs? Given my extensive knowledge, imho, the values all fall within acceptable limits. Thoughts?
jfitzmo:
POST ALL FUTURE DISCUSSION IN THE CORRECT "V6 FORUM".
When you start a new thread there, most of the above will be moved into that thread. The current thread is not for the purposes of diagnosing vehicle problems. It is intended for issues with the Scan9495 software for the LT1.
Yeah, I subscribed to that thread but then I noticed the last post was 10 years ago (Scan9495 software for the v6) . So, I figured since you're like the last person on the site, protocol would be less of an issue. I understand your expertise is only LT1's. Do you know where I may find someone that can interpret v6 data?
I'm trying to read camaro 95 codes and as the links on the original post dont really work anymore, could someone tell me if these two products are the ones I need to make the cable:
I'm trying to read camaro 95 codes and as the links on the original post dont really work anymore, could someone tell me if these two products are the ones I need to make the cable:
Thanks for the help, I have ordered the products.
On your old post of the inside of the cable and you wrote that "black goes to pins 4 and 5" but in the picture itself it doesnt seem like black is connected to 4 and 5? Image below
05-01-2024, 04:34 PM
