Pics of new rear Draglites.
08-28-2002, 05:31 PM
#16
Moderator
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Cinnaminson, NJ
Posts: 2,713
Thanks Ken!! Now all I have to do is find a set of 15x10's 
. BTW, the ARP studs come out to be the same price as the GM studs... if you pay full list price at the dealer. Most of the time you can talk the dealer down. I know my guy wont charge me full price for them. Thanks again Ken.
------------------
Brian
96 Red z28, A4, Flowmaster, SLP CAI, AFPR, B&M transpack & cooler, LT4 KM, 3.73's, T/A girdle, LS1 driveshaft, cc305, Crane 1.6's, MSD 6AL, Meziere, ST3500, JetHot/Hooker LT's
The Project!!!
Best ET: 11.91 Best MPH: 113.54 Best 60': 1.59
327RWHP/380RWTQ
East Coast F-body Nats
It's god's responsibility to forgive Bin Laden, it's our responsibility to arrange the meeting...
-United States Marines
. BTW, the ARP studs come out to be the same price as the GM studs... if you pay full list price at the dealer. Most of the time you can talk the dealer down. I know my guy wont charge me full price for them. Thanks again Ken.------------------
Brian
96 Red z28, A4, Flowmaster, SLP CAI, AFPR, B&M transpack & cooler, LT4 KM, 3.73's, T/A girdle, LS1 driveshaft, cc305, Crane 1.6's, MSD 6AL, Meziere, ST3500, JetHot/Hooker LT's
The Project!!!
Best ET: 11.91 Best MPH: 113.54 Best 60': 1.59
327RWHP/380RWTQ
East Coast F-body Nats
It's god's responsibility to forgive Bin Laden, it's our responsibility to arrange the meeting...
-United States Marines
08-28-2002, 11:22 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 209
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by speedmiser:
Looks nice Ken.
Hey Wicked - Did you have fun clearancing the rear for the 28 x 13.5 Hoosiers? Took a lot of "Hammer Time", a jig saw, and sawzal to get mine to tuck under without slicing the 28 x 13.5 MT ET's
</font>
Looks nice Ken.
Hey Wicked - Did you have fun clearancing the rear for the 28 x 13.5 Hoosiers? Took a lot of "Hammer Time", a jig saw, and sawzal to get mine to tuck under without slicing the 28 x 13.5 MT ET's
</font>
It is going to fit with very minimal effort! 28x13.5 MTs have over an Inch MORE section diameter than 28x13.5 Hoosher Quick Times, yet they both have 11" of tread. You can actually go with a 28x14.5 Hoosher Quick Time and still have .1" LESS section diameter and 1" Extra tread vs the 28x13.5 Mickies.That's why I went with Hoosier over MT.
I do have a question for ya though. My 28s want to hit my bumper without even moving! I thought most people didn't have this problem? From the looks of it I'm going to have to actually cut some of my bumper off.
Jason
------------------
Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, Holley 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....
08-29-2002, 10:15 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 823
Had to trim my back panel cause the tires were barely touching.
Dont know the exact higth of your tires, but 28" tires arent always 28".
The Mickey 28x11.5x15 ET streets are only 27.3". I imagine those are the guys that have the least clearance prolems. My 13.5s are 28" exactly and the 12.5 streets are 28.2"
To solve my problem, first, I rolled back the metal brace. Then, I used masking tape and a sharpie to mark my cut, then used a jigsaw to make the cut, then used a little scotchbrite to take of any edges that were left. I suppose I took a little over an inch off the bottom (maybe closer to 2"). I thought my hacking would look worse than it actually does, but the cut came out nice. So far no one has been able to tell that I cut any of the body, until I've told them myself.
(Actually, I let my bud Jim, aka Texlurch, make the cuts, since he had steadier hands at the time. My attitude was "OMG, I hope I dont screw up these cuts an ruin the rear panels", while he was a little calmer with an attitude of "screw it, it's not my car")
You can see the clearance it gave me in this shot:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...70_49_full.jpg
BTW, for those of you looking to go to a wheel with long shank lugs - stay far away from MR Gasket lugs - take a look. This was the norm, not the execption in the batch I received. They were all drilled far off-center
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...23_39_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...23_40_full.jpg
Luckily, Martel Brothers swapped the MR Gasket lugs for "MR Lug" lugs, which were much better quality and also came with the larger Weld style washers. (I already had Weld lugs on the front of the car and the MR Lug's looked identical).
------------------
If I'm playin, I'm sprayin
93 Z28 A3 - w/ Jet Hot coated Hooker LT's and true 3" duals
(hiflow cats, cutouts, and Car Chemistry insert mufflers)
[This message has been edited by speedmiser (edited August 29, 2002).]
Dont know the exact higth of your tires, but 28" tires arent always 28".
The Mickey 28x11.5x15 ET streets are only 27.3". I imagine those are the guys that have the least clearance prolems. My 13.5s are 28" exactly and the 12.5 streets are 28.2"
To solve my problem, first, I rolled back the metal brace. Then, I used masking tape and a sharpie to mark my cut, then used a jigsaw to make the cut, then used a little scotchbrite to take of any edges that were left. I suppose I took a little over an inch off the bottom (maybe closer to 2"). I thought my hacking would look worse than it actually does, but the cut came out nice. So far no one has been able to tell that I cut any of the body, until I've told them myself.
(Actually, I let my bud Jim, aka Texlurch, make the cuts, since he had steadier hands at the time. My attitude was "OMG, I hope I dont screw up these cuts an ruin the rear panels", while he was a little calmer with an attitude of "screw it, it's not my car")
You can see the clearance it gave me in this shot:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...70_49_full.jpg
BTW, for those of you looking to go to a wheel with long shank lugs - stay far away from MR Gasket lugs - take a look. This was the norm, not the execption in the batch I received. They were all drilled far off-center
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...23_39_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...23_40_full.jpg
Luckily, Martel Brothers swapped the MR Gasket lugs for "MR Lug" lugs, which were much better quality and also came with the larger Weld style washers. (I already had Weld lugs on the front of the car and the MR Lug's looked identical).
------------------
If I'm playin, I'm sprayin
93 Z28 A3 - w/ Jet Hot coated Hooker LT's and true 3" duals
(hiflow cats, cutouts, and Car Chemistry insert mufflers)
[This message has been edited by speedmiser (edited August 29, 2002).]
08-29-2002, 02:09 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 209
That looks really good!!! You kinda set my mind at rest, I was worried it would look and I didn't exactly want to be the first one to do this! My 28's are exactly 28" tall so I probably had the same problem as you.
I'll be performing my surgery this weekend unless I can't find this stupid Oil Leak problem I'm having. (I'M ABOUT TO LOSE MY MIND)
Jason
------------------
Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, Holley 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....
I'll be performing my surgery this weekend unless I can't find this stupid Oil Leak problem I'm having. (I'M ABOUT TO LOSE MY MIND)
Jason
------------------
Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, Holley 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....
08-31-2002, 10:25 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 209
I just cut my bumper today and it doesn't look bad at all! Clerancing for my 13.5s only took 40 mintues total if that! That's including beating the car to death and cutting the bumper. Now clearancing for the breaks took a little longer. I probably had 3-4 hours total on that project.
Jason
------------------
Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, Holley 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....
Jason
------------------
Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, Holley 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....
09-08-2002, 01:36 AM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Port Neches, TX
Posts: 135
Looks mean!
Question - You're running rim screws without tubes? I didn't think you could do that...Shows how much I know I guess.
Did you have to do any grinding to the front or rear calipers?
Eventually I would like to get a set of Draglites (or similar) for my car, but I would like to get a set that fits without having to mess with the studs. Anywho, do you have any problems running a stock type 16/17 inch rim with the longer studs?
------------------
Red 1993 Z28
A4, 3.23, CAI, Hooker LTs, Mufflex Y, Borla, Chrome ZR1s
Question - You're running rim screws without tubes? I didn't think you could do that...Shows how much I know I guess.
Did you have to do any grinding to the front or rear calipers?
Eventually I would like to get a set of Draglites (or similar) for my car, but I would like to get a set that fits without having to mess with the studs. Anywho, do you have any problems running a stock type 16/17 inch rim with the longer studs?
------------------
Red 1993 Z28
A4, 3.23, CAI, Hooker LTs, Mufflex Y, Borla, Chrome ZR1s
09-08-2002, 03:16 AM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 823
Thanks
I had to grind the fins on the rear calipers. Used a friends large die grinder and a **** nasty alum bit. Took about 5 minutes. Then another 5 to clean up all the metal shaving the die grinder spewed
If you go to a draglite style rim, you're going to be forced to go with new studs. The stock ones are just too short for the thicker style rims.
The stock wheels will still fit with the longer studs, but the rear studs are too long for the center caps to be used (at least on my old salad shooters). The new front studs were just short enough that the salad shooter center caps did work though.
------------------
If I'm playin, I'm sprayin
93 Z28 A3 - w/ Jet Hot coated Hooker LT's and true 3" duals
(hiflow cats, cutouts, and Car Chemistry insert mufflers)
I had to grind the fins on the rear calipers. Used a friends large die grinder and a **** nasty alum bit. Took about 5 minutes. Then another 5 to clean up all the metal shaving the die grinder spewed
If you go to a draglite style rim, you're going to be forced to go with new studs. The stock ones are just too short for the thicker style rims.
The stock wheels will still fit with the longer studs, but the rear studs are too long for the center caps to be used (at least on my old salad shooters). The new front studs were just short enough that the salad shooter center caps did work though.
------------------
If I'm playin, I'm sprayin
93 Z28 A3 - w/ Jet Hot coated Hooker LT's and true 3" duals
(hiflow cats, cutouts, and Car Chemistry insert mufflers)
09-08-2002, 12:49 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Port Neches, TX
Posts: 135
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by speedmiser:
The stock wheels will still fit with the longer studs, but the rear studs are too long for the center caps to be used (at least on my old salad shooters). The new front studs were just short enough that the salad shooter center caps did work though.
</font>
The stock wheels will still fit with the longer studs, but the rear studs are too long for the center caps to be used (at least on my old salad shooters). The new front studs were just short enough that the salad shooter center caps did work though.
</font>
09-08-2002, 01:42 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Houston, TX USA
Posts: 706
his site is http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/speedmiser
fyi, back to back testing has shown that his car runs 3 mph faster in the 1/4 without the bra, but he says he likes the sleeper effect (I think he is hiding something under there)
------------------
Texlurch - 68 Camaro-LT1 w/Hot Cam, TT & TIC coming soon!
" a little spray never hurt anyone, spank you very much!"
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/texlurch
fyi, back to back testing has shown that his car runs 3 mph faster in the 1/4 without the bra, but he says he likes the sleeper effect (I think he is hiding something under there)
------------------
Texlurch - 68 Camaro-LT1 w/Hot Cam, TT & TIC coming soon!
" a little spray never hurt anyone, spank you very much!"
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/texlurch
09-10-2002, 05:33 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: tulsa ok
Posts: 16
I saw them that Sat night at the OORA deal,i believe, Looked great!!!!!!!
------------------
86 ZZ4 Z28 traction impaired 13.700@102.07,with a blazing 2.10 60 ft on junk street tires,,69 AMX mostly stock,12.94@102.3 with sticky tires
------------------
86 ZZ4 Z28 traction impaired 13.700@102.07,with a blazing 2.10 60 ft on junk street tires,,69 AMX mostly stock,12.94@102.3 with sticky tires
09-10-2002, 10:59 PM
#28
Moderator
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Cinnaminson, NJ
Posts: 2,713
Ken, went over to my local dealer the other day... the studs listed for $4.20 each 
, but I quickly got them down to the "special" prices... $1.63 each. That works out to be a lot cheaper than the ARP studs. Now if I could just find a set of 15x10's, used
------------------
Brian
96 Red z28, A4, Flowmaster, SLP CAI, AFPR, B&M transpack & cooler, LT4 KM, 3.73's, T/A girdle, LS1 driveshaft, cc305, Crane 1.6's, MSD 6AL, Meziere, ST3500, JetHot/Hooker LT's
The Project!!!
Best ET: 11.91 Best MPH: 113.54 Best 60': 1.59
327RWHP/380RWTQ
East Coast F-body Nats
It's god's responsibility to forgive Bin Laden, it's our responsibility to arrange the meeting...
-United States Marines
, but I quickly got them down to the "special" prices... $1.63 each. That works out to be a lot cheaper than the ARP studs. Now if I could just find a set of 15x10's, used ------------------
Brian
96 Red z28, A4, Flowmaster, SLP CAI, AFPR, B&M transpack & cooler, LT4 KM, 3.73's, T/A girdle, LS1 driveshaft, cc305, Crane 1.6's, MSD 6AL, Meziere, ST3500, JetHot/Hooker LT's
The Project!!!
Best ET: 11.91 Best MPH: 113.54 Best 60': 1.59
327RWHP/380RWTQ
East Coast F-body Nats
It's god's responsibility to forgive Bin Laden, it's our responsibility to arrange the meeting...
-United States Marines
09-11-2002, 09:39 AM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 823
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by texlurch:
his site is http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/speedmiser
fyi, back to back testing has shown that his car runs 3 mph faster in the 1/4 without the bra, but he says he likes the sleeper effect (I think he is hiding something under there)
</font>
his site is http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/speedmiser
fyi, back to back testing has shown that his car runs 3 mph faster in the 1/4 without the bra, but he says he likes the sleeper effect (I think he is hiding something under there)
</font>
I've burnt the bra
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...70_52_full.jpg
Just the intial fitting
------------------
If I'm playin, I'm sprayin
93 Z28 A3 - w/ Jet Hot coated Hooker LT's and true 3" duals
(hiflow cats, cutouts, and Car Chemistry insert mufflers)
[This message has been edited by speedmiser (edited September 11, 2002).]
[This message has been edited by speedmiser (edited September 11, 2002).]
09-11-2002, 12:41 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Tulsa, OK, USA
Posts: 738
ProjectZ28 - That's cool 1.63 is a good price, did they have to order them? Or did they have some in stock? It took about a week to get mine.
Speedmiser - What size cowl is that? Looks like a 4"
Speedmiser - What size cowl is that? Looks like a 4"