BULLET PROOF 10 BOLT? You be the judge!
09-09-2007, 12:54 PM
#123
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 180
Alright guys, I finally made some time to write up a short install on mine. It has a list of parts, where to get them and prices of everything.
http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html
http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html
10-27-2008, 02:44 AM
#127
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: N Falmouth MA
Posts: 2,594
Some part numbers-
Summit Cover- SME-8510400
SPC toe adjusters- 69450
The bracket to tie it all together have to be fabricated.
Well, I don't have a good downward picture so I did this quick rendering for you, hope it helps. I put about 10 inch lbs of backwards preload. not enough to pull anything out of place.
I know this is old, but I'm gonna go ahead and bump this.. My buddy found this thread for me seeing as I had a HARD time finding it, for some reason...
I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go ahead and do this.. Cheap and easy first, ya know? My buddy and I are basically building street cars.. Both are already Heads and cammed at over 500 hp.. But we don't do a lot of drag racing (if any) and our rears are still stock (2000 and a 2002) and we both want gears on a TIGHT budget. (And I'm concerned about weight)
I'm wondering, if there was the problem of the axle tubes walking FORWARD, couldn't you place the reinforcement braces on the FRONT of the rear housing?? Brace them from the front of the axle tubes to the gussets near the 'rear' of the pinion?? Radiused tube steel on one end, and fab something up for the 'pinion' end. I just noticed that you're basically risking strength on a metal that is weaker than steel = ALUM. Granted, the weld SHOULD be stronger than the original piece, but still.
You may have more room..
Just an idea, and no I didn't read too far into this to see if anyone else had suggested it..
Something like this.. (Sorry for the MSPaint, I lost my Photoshop CS3 when my Hard drive crashed.
)
Last edited by Bayer-Z28; 10-27-2008 at 03:49 AM.
10-27-2008, 06:10 AM
#128
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 180
The problem I see in it is that it is very difficult to get a strong weld on the nodular iron center section. This is one of the main reasons why it is so hard to fab up a torque arm mount on a rear end that doesnt have one, such as a 12 bolt or ford 8.8"... And speaking of the torque arm, the drivers side link on your setup would hit the torque arm that is mounted on the side of the housing...
10-29-2008, 12:34 AM
#129
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: N Falmouth MA
Posts: 2,594
I hear ya... I like to fab stuff, and I thought I found a different way to do it.. I'll eventually get the rear off (or buy another one) and sit and stare at it for a while.. I'll most likely end up going with your original idea.
Still, good work do0d! This'll be perfect for my car...
Still, good work do0d! This'll be perfect for my car...
Last edited by Bayer-Z28; 10-29-2008 at 12:38 AM.
10-29-2008, 08:22 PM
#130
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 746
Bayer - I suppose a tubular torque arm might allow you to configure this on the front, but the loads would try to compress the rods and the housing instead of putting tension on the rods and rear cover assembly. With thin or curvy hollow stuff, compression is not the best loadcase.
Note that with the rear mounted configuration, if set up right, the loads are carried by the cover section, or separate strap across the 2 inboard heim joint bolts. The strap in the kits is aluminum and needs to have the chamfered holes and tapered fasteners to better carry the tension loads and keep them out of the cover. I should probably make a steel one. Hazard's cover is so beefy I don't think it is the weak link.
Mine has dozens of passes so far (75 maybe?) and is AOK. I used a bit more tension preload than suggested; they are pretty tight. Maybe 1/4 turn past 'no slop', so they slightly pull the tubes rearward, although you can't see that.
Note that with the rear mounted configuration, if set up right, the loads are carried by the cover section, or separate strap across the 2 inboard heim joint bolts. The strap in the kits is aluminum and needs to have the chamfered holes and tapered fasteners to better carry the tension loads and keep them out of the cover. I should probably make a steel one. Hazard's cover is so beefy I don't think it is the weak link.
Mine has dozens of passes so far (75 maybe?) and is AOK. I used a bit more tension preload than suggested; they are pretty tight. Maybe 1/4 turn past 'no slop', so they slightly pull the tubes rearward, although you can't see that.
03-19-2009, 09:01 PM
#132
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oshkosh, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,309
Alright guys, I finally made some time to write up a short install on mine. It has a list of parts, where to get them and prices of everything.
http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html
http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html
04-27-2009, 03:30 PM
#133
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 32
Checking in.....
Glad to see this post still gets some hits. Love to see the "alterations" in design and different thought processes.
I have destroy a couple T5 transmissions lately, but the differential is still holding up to the extreme RWHP.
Later guys,
Zdaddy
I have destroy a couple T5 transmissions lately, but the differential is still holding up to the extreme RWHP.
Later guys,
Zdaddy
