Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
#1
Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
Now that I have installed my Moser 9" and have a little money to burn I think that i'm going to get a driveshaft and a safety loop.I saw some aluminum ones on E-Bay that came out of the LS1's,will those driveshafts be what I need or do I need to get a aftermarket one?I also need some recommendations on a saftey loop.
Thanks,
JE
Thanks,
JE
#3
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
Seems like if you have enough power to justify a 9-inch, you should look for a stronger driveshaft than the factory aluminum one. Most people go for something like the "nitrous ready" DS from Denny's, the Spohn Performance high strength DS or a Mark Williams chrome moly DS.
As far as the loop, what are you using for a torque arm? A high powered setup would benefit from something like the Spohn Performance TA, and that is available with a front DS loop, and even another in the rear if you want one.
As far as the loop, what are you using for a torque arm? A high powered setup would benefit from something like the Spohn Performance TA, and that is available with a front DS loop, and even another in the rear if you want one.
#6
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
Not sure that I can afford the aftermarket driveshafts.Would I be better off with the aluminum one over the stock steel.My stock driveshaft works with the 9".
Thanks,
JE
Thanks,
JE
#7
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
Most people opt for the aluminum DS because it solves the vibration problem that many stock 4th Gen steel DS's have at high rpm. If you don't have a vibration problem with the DS, I wouldn't change it. The steel one is probably stronger than the aluminum - just guessing though. Hard to tell how much strength you need in the DS from the mod's list.
I would still check the length of the stock DS. With the rear axle at normal ride height (support the rear of the car by axle on jack stands), seat the rear u-joint caps in the pinion yoke, but don't install the u-bolts. Slide the DS forward into the tranny tailshaft housing, until it bottoms out. There should be at least 1/2" of clearance before it bottoms out. If you don't have adequate clearance, you can damage the tranny.
I would still check the length of the stock DS. With the rear axle at normal ride height (support the rear of the car by axle on jack stands), seat the rear u-joint caps in the pinion yoke, but don't install the u-bolts. Slide the DS forward into the tranny tailshaft housing, until it bottoms out. There should be at least 1/2" of clearance before it bottoms out. If you don't have adequate clearance, you can damage the tranny.
#8
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
Thanks for the reply man.I'll check the driveshaft in the next day or so just to be sure.If the aluminum one is'nt stronger than I will go with the aftermarket one.Someone told my cousin that the LS1 aluminum DS was stronger.I just wanted to besure before I bought one.If you say it's not stronger,i'll take your word for it.You seem to know your stuff and you've helped me a bunch.
I looked into the torque arms but I guess i'll have to pick between the DS or torque arm because of my budget.Will the steel or aluminum DS hold up to my mods which are:,CNC Cylinder Heads,GM 847,1.6 R.R's,52mm TB,LT Headers,on stock bottom end,and soon enough probably a 100-150 shot NOS.What do you think I should get Injuneer?
Thanks,
JE
I looked into the torque arms but I guess i'll have to pick between the DS or torque arm because of my budget.Will the steel or aluminum DS hold up to my mods which are:,CNC Cylinder Heads,GM 847,1.6 R.R's,52mm TB,LT Headers,on stock bottom end,and soon enough probably a 100-150 shot NOS.What do you think I should get Injuneer?
Thanks,
JE
#9
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
The steel shaft is stronger than the aluminum shaft. You can destroy your transmission if the DS is too long. You MUST check this. I agree that a 9" and a stock DS seems like a mismatch. What's up with that?
Rich
Rich
#10
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
A buddy of mine snapped a 1LE aluminum DS with a low boost blower on a stock engine. Another friend of mine snapped a Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum DS with a blown 383 making about 750 flywheelHP. The highest HP levels I've seen for aluminum are around 800HP. Above that you get into a metal matrix construction.
You will not save a lot of HP with an aluminum DS. The dyno test at ws6.com gain 1.1rwHP and 5 lb-ft of rwTorque going from stock steel to 1LE aluminum. To me its not worth the risk.... but I'm running about 800HP, so aluminum isn't really an option. I tried a carbon fiber DS, and that was a complete disater, with the ACPT DS breaking while the computer was running in "limp" mode, with just enough tune to allow the car to be driven from the engine shop to the body shop.
You will not save a lot of HP with an aluminum DS. The dyno test at ws6.com gain 1.1rwHP and 5 lb-ft of rwTorque going from stock steel to 1LE aluminum. To me its not worth the risk.... but I'm running about 800HP, so aluminum isn't really an option. I tried a carbon fiber DS, and that was a complete disater, with the ACPT DS breaking while the computer was running in "limp" mode, with just enough tune to allow the car to be driven from the engine shop to the body shop.
#11
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
The reason I went with the 9" is because my stock rear went out and I replaced it with the Moser 9" here recently and have'nt got a driveshaft yet.Since how I got a little chunk of change I may go ahead and get a aftermarket DS and buy a cheap safety loop until I can afford to get a torque arm.I saw a safety loop on e-bay for $20 new,what do I need to look for to make sure it will fit my car,or will any of them work?
Out of the three DS's you mentioned (Dennny's,Spohn,Mark Williams)which one stands out the most to you?
Thanks again for all of your help fellas.
JE
Out of the three DS's you mentioned (Dennny's,Spohn,Mark Williams)which one stands out the most to you?
Thanks again for all of your help fellas.
JE
#12
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
For the most for your money, Dennys or Spohn are good. They are mild steel. If you want to save a little weight, or buy a little more strength, the Mark Williams chrome moly shaft is very good, but at least 50% more expensive than the others.
#13
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
I'll probably end up getting either the Denny's or the Spohn then.What about the safety loop,will any of them work or is their something I should avoid when getting one?
Thanks,
JE
Thanks,
JE
#15
Re: Driveshaft And Safety Loop???
I just got my Lakewood safety loop from Summit. Hopefully I can make the time to install it this weekend and will letcha know. It's listed as a fit for our cars, but I'm running an 3" X-pipe so I'm not sure.