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Old 08-21-2006, 01:30 AM
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Driveshafts

Is it worth it on a bolt-on LT1? They aren't too expensive, im wondering if goin with an aluminum ds would help at all on a a4 bolt on.
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:51 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

They're lighter, truer, and a bit more reliable due to their thickness.

I think they've been dyno proven to add 6hp or something of that nature. I'm going with one soon as mine is out of balance slightly.
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:23 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

Originally Posted by Rashiki
They're lighter, truer, and a bit more reliable due to their thickness.

...
An LS1 shaft is weaker than your stock steel one. A 1LE shaft may or may not be.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:14 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

Originally Posted by shoebox
An LS1 shaft is weaker than your stock steel one. A 1LE shaft may or may not be.
>but you will get rid of unwanted vibrations... I have the 1LE driveshaft and its attached to my Strange 12 bolt with no modification.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:21 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

Please post in the correct forum. This belongs in "Drivetrain", not "LT1/LT4 Engine Tech".

Moving....
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:23 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

Dyno.... 1.1 peak HP, 5.0 lb-ft peak torque.

http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:34 PM
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Re: Driveshafts

Originally Posted by bowtiepwr
>but you will get rid of unwanted vibrations... I have the 1LE driveshaft and its attached to my Strange 12 bolt with no modification.
A good balance and making sure the U-joints are properly installed (will require new ones if never replaced) should rid of vibations. U-joints can cause vibrations if they weren't installed perfectly at the factory which leads to centrality problems.
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:46 PM
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Re: Driveshafts

Typically I only recommend upgrading the steel shaft to a LS1 aluminum shaft if you are having vibration problems and having the Steel shaft re-balanced and u-joints does not cure the problem.

I personally don't see the need in spending the extra $$ on a DS if it's not needed. And when it is needed, the LS1 shaft is a good choice for a mild-bolt-on car; if you're making some serious HP and are looking for a new DS, then I suggest calling Denny's and ordering one of his guarenteed not to break Nitrous Ready shafts. His work is top quality, and has a wonderful reputation; I'm ran that shaft in my car when it was a bolt-on, and will be when it goes back together as a TT/N2O car.
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:13 PM
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Re: Driveshafts

I have a 1LE DS...its hanging in two pieces in my garage to remind me not to do that again...I have a 3" custom steel one now...I'll lose a tid bit of power to avoid that catastrophe again...

--Alan
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:34 PM
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Re: Driveshafts

I was suprised at the difference in acceleration going from stock LT1 to LPE aluminum. I didn't really expect to notice much difference but I could actually feel it. I'd say its worth it.
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:06 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

If you ever plan on running a sticky tire then a good aftermarket DS is a must.
I run a Dennys Nitrous ready shaft in my bolt on car and because its cheap insurance I run a DS loop as well.
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:44 AM
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Re: Driveshafts

It's jsut a bolt on LT1. I run nitto 555rs though...

Also, im considering going with a 2500 stal, im assuming i should get the aluminum ds then?
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:30 PM
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Re: Driveshafts

Originally Posted by Geardrive63
It's jsut a bolt on LT1. I run nitto 555rs though...

Also, im considering going with a 2500 stal, im assuming i should get the aluminum ds then?
I wouldn't.... Stay with the steel unit if it's not vibrating.
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