Ok i'll try to keep this short but i have a lot to say and some background info.

bought the car with 89k on it. 95 camaro z28 m6. it has 145k on it now and i believe the stock clutch and stock tranny (never been pulled to be repaired or rebuilt). I am the second owner and i dont recall him saying he had any tranny work.

the car has always shifted fine never had a problem with any gears or anything. i am very very easy on the clutch.

now the problem im having. recently a few months ago i was driving and i rolled to a stop light and stopped. light turned green i was in neutral foot off the clutch. so i pressed the clutch in, and tried to shift to first and it wouldn't shift. felt very odd never done it before. tried second and it wouldnt go. released clutch, clutched in again and it went into first. i took off and went to shift into 2nd and it wouldnt go into 2nd. i released clutch and i was still rolling a little and i got it in 2nd and it drove fine through all gears afterwards. i got home ok and drove the next day and from then on it had started to give me a slight grind when shifting into 2nd gear and sometimes 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th, but its the most noticable and apparent in 2nd gear. it is intermittent especially with 3rd-6th gears. the thing is that it shifts through all gears fine 1-6th when the car is cold but after a few miles of driving and the car warmed up is when it will start to slightly grind in 2nd. it does this with clutch all the way in and shifting into 2nd gear and then releasing the clutch and driving.

it is really odd as i have taken very good care of the transmission and driving very easy on it since i have gotten it. the clutch seems to still grab very strong but i think it might be somethign to do with it. it pulls great in all gears no slippage but i was thinking it still might be the clutch because of the miles hopefully instead of the 1-2 synchro or all of them. i am really hoping to not have to rebuild it and hoping that it just needs a new clutch, throwout bearing, flywheel, and pressure plate. i didnt bleed the clutch but i replaced all the fluid in the reservoir with new clear fluid. i also just drained the tranny fluid today and refilled with mobil 1 synthetic atf and i really thought it was the fluid but it didnt fix it. it still slightly grinds in 2nd after warming up. i had an slp short throw shifter in there and it never popped out of any gears and today when i drained and refilled the tranny fluid i changed the shifter out to a pro 5.0 and when i went to test drive it to see if the fluid change fixed the grinding it popped out of 2nd a few times. never done this before with the slp short throw. i think its the pro 5.0 and the stop bolts on it and the #6 boot taht is tight against the shifter. i was going to either take ou tthe stop bolts or loosen them some more to make sure the shifter has enough room to stay into 2nd gear. just did this a few times todaya with the pro 5.0 never with the slp short throw.

please let me know if any of you have had any problem like this and i hope its not the synchros and a rebuild because that is probably a lot of $$$ how much for a rebuild kit for everyhting? how much would labor usually run? also if i was to do that what would be the best clutch kit to get? just for street daily use. i only have bolt ons a few of them thats it no crazy power or anything. please any ideas would be great. thanks

 

Check the clutch slave cylinder for leaks.

 

as far as i know no leaks at all ever. i looked at it today when i changed the fluid. i replaced all the clutch fluid with new as well last week and it hasnt leaked any.

 

do you think it might be that the slave cylinder needs to be bled or replaced? even though its not leaking? its stock so 145k miles never been replaced. maybe it has a lot of gunk in the lines and needs to be bled or replaced? also how do i go about doing so on it? does it have a bleeder? i didnt see one when i was looking at it. do i have to unbolt the two bolts that holds it to the transmission pull it out and pump the cylinder manually to bleed it? what bleed screw or bolt do i open to bleed the lines? lmk asap thanks again. im hoping that may fix it if the slave cylinder is not releaseing the clutch completely when shifting therefore causing the slight grind when warm. any mor ideas thanks again.

 

No bleeder. In theory it self-bleeds. But after big miles, could also be the master with fluid bypassing the piston seal.

 

how would i check for that if the fluid was bypassing the piston seal. are you talkin about the piston seal in the slave or in the master? what would be your start to tatckle this problem? to replace the master and slave cylinder or just the master first ehn the slave then the clutch then the tranny if that sit?

 

any new ideas. i havent had time to do anything except the tranny fluid change i did.

 

just wanting to see if anyone else had any ideas. problem hasnt gotten any better but i havent driven it much i dont want to cause any more damage. does anyone think it might be the clutch disc itself maybe one of the springs or possibly the throwout bearing, pressure plate?

 

I believe it is in the hydralics, not the clutch itself. I have an issue a little like yours in my 02 SS but mine only does it when you hold the clutch down for a while then clutch pedal sticks close to the floor. when it starts acting up pull over and see if you can lift up on the clutch pedal by hand (or foot) if it is not even with your brake pedal with your foot off of it it needs to come up. If that is the case it should be fluid bypassing the plunger in the master cylinder. If no stuck pedal condition it could be air trapped in the line, or gunk. No matter what it is if it were mine I would put a new clutch master on it and fresh new fluid before anything else. For a couple of reasons 1 is that it is the cheapest and easiest part of the hydrualic system to replace, and 2 a bunch of local mechanics have me convinced that if the slave was bad it would be leaking fluid in the bellhousing. I hope this might help a little

 

Master.....

 

thanks for the replies. i have been slammed at work havent gotten a chance to check in. i will start by replacing the master. do i have to remove the slave and bleed it that way after i replace the master or will i be able to just fill the new master with fluid and just keep pumping the pedal to self-bleed? or do i have to do the process where i unbolt the slave, hang it on a wire inside the engine compartment lower than the master and manually push the slave plunge in an out to bleed the lines until no air bubbles are in the master cylinder clutch reservoir with the cap on? im hioping i can just replace the master and it hopefully is just that seal and self bleed it and get my car back to normal. i really dont want to spend a few thousand dollars on getting a new clutch or haveing the tranny rebuilt. i am very easy on it and the clutch still grabs strong and doesnt slip at all. but i didnt know.

 

oh yea i forgot to add iroc. i dont have the problem where the clutch sticks or stays to the floor. never have had that problem in this car and teh clutch pedal is strong an dhas plenty of pressure not loose or sticky or have to pump it to get pressure out of it. so i don tthink there is any air in my lines but after injuneers diagnosis i am hoping it is just an old worn out master cylinder piston sleeve or something and that will fix it.