Ok so I'm learn as I go with all of this and this is my first forum write up so if I posted this in the wrong place I'm sorry lol ..So here is my problem.. I have an 84 z28 with a 355 350hp 400fl-lbs so I finally had the money to do a much needed tray swap and for me there is nothing like shifting the car myself I had the t5 and I swapped it out to a t56 from a 94 firebird (I don't have the hole car) so I have everything done. Go to work the clutch petal to see if I needed to bleed the hydraulics ...and long story short I didn't have the fork on the throwout bearing and it looks like some how the bearing was pushed toward the engine ..idk if some how the fork pushed the bearing or what but the bearing is only out I'd say 5/8th of a inch..now I have NO IDEA how to fix this (please tell me the clutch n everything is ok lol) is there a way to pull the back bearing out has anyone ever heard of this or ran into this before? Is this fixable at all? Can I somehow get it without pulling the hole thing out again? (god I hope there is lol) or do I have to pull the trany and pull the bearing back in place with my hand or what do I have ahead of me? I'm just hopping nothing is broke =( and would be nice to not have to pull the trany back out =) ANY AND ALL help would be very helpful...thank you. Or am I just looking at it wrong and having a hard time getting the fork on?

Also a side note I need the slave cylinder spacer/adapter if anyone has one layin around and will sell it for a good price let me know.

 

A LT1 clutch works backwards from traditional clutches. That means the fingers on the pressure plate are pulled out towards the tranny instead of pushed in towards the engine. It's been a while since I've had mine apart but I don't remeber the throwout bearing sticking out very far.

This thread belongs in the drivetrain section and I'm sure the moderator will move it....I just wanted to get you started.

Good luck!

 

When you installed the clutch I hope you had the hat of the clutch pointed to the flywheel and not facing the trans like most clutches.

 

Thanks for the replys guys..well I know I installed the correct way..throwout bearing is facing the back of the car..? Like pointing toward the trany. I was looking at pics on google http://www.opseth.name/colinsfiles/clutch/1.jpg and thinking I might just be looking at it wrong..when looking through the hole for the fork can you see the part of the bearing the fork goes over? I think and hope I was looking at the space on the bearing between the pp fingers and the part of the bearing where the fork slips over..but if that's true I can't see the part where the fork slips over..I hope I just made a stupid mistake and am looking it wrong..i have never seen this set up b4 so maybe thats it idk what do you think? What should I do next? I mean how do I know the forks in rite I can get it to slid in n "lock" but i don't think its around the bearing..this sucks so bad everything is done besides getting the fork on place and bleeding the hydraulics and I just want to take it for a good last drive b4 snow starts flying lol

 

What I meant was the clutch if you are looking at it the high part of it fits into the flywheel. The pressure plate should have fit over that easy and bolted right up and not had to hold a lot of pressure to draw it in. If the high part of the clutch was facing the pressure plate, when you start up the car it will snap the clutch in half.

As for the fork, with it pulled downward, you should be able to push upward into the throw out and hear it snap when pushed into it. If not you have a problem. When it is in, and snapped in, if you wiggle it front to back it will rattle in the throw out. Make sure to blead the slave and master. You can hold the slave pointed downward and give short strokes in and out while someone watches the master for bubbles. Also male sure the plastic half ball is still on the slave rod.

 

Yea every thing went very smooth until this point. I mean it would be hard to put in backwards right? Heres a pic of how it looked when I put the clutch in carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2904/1861/32258430016_large.jpg (not my pic but just to show you) ..and I made sure to put the Clutch disc flywheel side to the flywheel also

I guess I should just give it another try and see what happen then?

Thanks for info on the fork do you know about how much play it will have when in place?

 

Not much. You should be able to put your finger in the cup area of the fork and push it slightly. It is pretty obvious when the fork is in right. Just get it to where it is lined up and then force it on. It will click loud when in place. If you have a doubt, try to pull it back off, it will be hard to remove and take some effort.

As for the clutch the wrong way, have seem it too many times because people assume it goes on like a typical clutch. Even in rams instructions they only list it in a very simple sentence stating it may install opposite including 93-97 fbodies.

 

Ok well I'll take another stab at it. I'm working on it at a friends place so as soon as I get a chance to drive down there I'll try getting the fork on again and let you know what happens.

Also I should be able to push on the fork? Sorry I'm confused a little and want to get it right b4 I get there so I know what to try.

Thanks again

 

Are you using the peddles, hydraulics, and fork from an lt1 car or did you modify the existing peddle? I assume you are using the clutch fork that came with the trans correct?

 

I'm using my peddles modded..the fork hyds everything is from the lt1 car and the clutch & flywheel are stock lt1 car ordered new from autozone

 

Ok... good. The fork will just slide up and a loud click when it is in. if you put your finger in the little cup area where the slave slides into, you will be able to push slightly back and forth and hear if rattle a bit when in.

What are you doing about the vss signal? Did you buy a converter?

 

ok thanks for clearing that up for me i am hoping to get out there tomorrow or Wednesday if not then it will be Saturday and see if i can get it. i hope thats all that is wrong lol. ill defiantly let you know!

As for the vss signal..its not gonna hurt anything if i leave it unhooked for awhile will it? i hate my speedometer any way, its the mph/kph slit and only goes to 85mph lol.so way i am planing on doing is leaving it for now and when i can get the funds i was thinking on trying cutting out the stock speedo out of the cluster and put a autometer programmable one in..i have yet to pull the cluster and take measurements to see if that will work..if not i will have to buy a hole new gauge cluster, ive seen them with all autometer gauges ready to set in..which i want to any way but they are soooo pricey. any input or ideas?