OK just got a 94 Camaro 3.4 I'm pretty sure not a z28 and it has just the slightest vibration when accelerating but vibrates like hell in overdrive at low rpm while accelerating BUT if i let off slowly the vibration goes away until i push the peddle again everyone says u-joint but it also has just a slight vibration when I'm just sitting it doesn't pop real hard going form park or neutral to any gear so i don't think its trans does anyone think they can help with the stuff I've said I'm already thinking of changing the 2 piece drive shaft to a single only because i hate 2 piece's with a passion

 

Are you sure the "vibration" isn't a misfire? Lugging the engine in O/D in low RPM (why would you even do that???) will cause the slightest irregularities to show up. The engine is overstressed by the high load/low RPM combination building excessive combustion chamber pressures, and leading to knock (which causes knock retard) and misfires due to the higher voltage required to fire the plugs. Any weakness in the ignition system will show up.

 

The car kicks it self in OD once you hit like 50 and are coasting but as for a miss wouldnt I feel that in stearing the vibration feels like it is in back more then up front and it doesn't seem to miss when you rev or idel and if it a miss only in OD how would I fix it? Plugs and wires

 

Hard to read that sentence, but.....

A miss is felt in the engine and the drivetrain, not in the steering. Not sure why you would expect it to show up there. When the trans is in O/D the torque converter locks up (94 lock up is "switched" = on or off, not pulse width modulated like the 95 and up 4L60E). Now you have the equivalent of a solid connection between the engine and the rear axle, like a manual trans. Any imperfections in engine rotation will be felt throughout the drivetrain. Again, not in the steering. No part of the engine is connected to the steering.

If you followed my response, misfires occur when there are weak ignition components, and the cylinder pressures are elevated due to lugging the engine. Those weak components are not going to show up at idle (cylinder pressures are very low - there is no engine load), or "when you rev" (I assume you mean sitting in the driveway and revving the engine) - again, no engine load. No engine load/low cylinder pressures requirer relatively little voltage to fire the plug. High engine load/high cylinder pressures, and the voltage required to fire the plug goes up. If there's a weak ignition component, the high voltage will arc, or cause the component to break down.

You have to figure out whether it's a "vibration" or a "misfire".

 

Ok I think I understand a little more I don't know if its a miss how would I determin that

 

Sounds like an ignition miss. If the plugs and plug wires are old, replace them. As Fred said, the higher the gear and the heavier the engine load, the more a miss is felt (and often mistaken for a drivetrain problem).

 

Awesome well im gonna change them then and ill let you guys know if that fixes it

 

Changed plugs and wires and it still vibrates

 

OK figured it out my friend said maybe a intake leak and remembered this trick that you spray carb cleaner on the intake and if it chokes it and acts funny there is a leak well he sprayed it near the vacuum line at the front on top and it made a funny noise well come to find out the person before was a idiot and duck taped the T connector for the vacuum lines and it was leaking so we fixed it and bam it works fine im so glad its fixed. now i just have to fix the hatch release button in the glove box. thanks to you guys that helped i really appreciate it