Questions about M6 shifting & linkage
#1
Questions about M6 shifting & linkage
After having Kermit join the family, I've taken some time to get used to the 6-speed transmission. After driving it for about 6 weeks, I've still not gotten fully adjusted to the shift pattern. The CAGS is livable (I usually go 1-to-3 when necessary). However, the shift from 5 to 6 is always uncomfortable and requires concentration. The gate for 6th seems a little to the right of the one for 5th. This requires me to pull down and over for a positive change.
Is this normal? This is the first T56 car I have ever driven for any length of time.
Second, if it is normal (or even if it's not) would an aftermarket shifter fix this? What should I expect from a shifter upgrade?
Is this normal? This is the first T56 car I have ever driven for any length of time.
Second, if it is normal (or even if it's not) would an aftermarket shifter fix this? What should I expect from a shifter upgrade?
#3
First of all, there's no linkage. The shifter sits right on top of the transmission and is connected directly to the internal mechanism.
I found that removing the rubber isolator on the stock shifter and replacing it with a short-throw shifter made this better on my car. I bought a custom-made shifter from teke184 on this board; since I don't think that's an option for most, I'd suggest a Lou's Short Stick.
I'd also suggest a Pro 5.0 shifter. That made the shifting experience even better yet!
I found that removing the rubber isolator on the stock shifter and replacing it with a short-throw shifter made this better on my car. I bought a custom-made shifter from teke184 on this board; since I don't think that's an option for most, I'd suggest a Lou's Short Stick.
I'd also suggest a Pro 5.0 shifter. That made the shifting experience even better yet!
#4
Mudbone:
I wasn't happy with the factory shifter and installed the Hurst Billet shifter. I was very pleased with the results.
CAGS aggravation? Don't live with it, instead get a 2K ohm resistor from the local Radio Shack and insert it in the plug at the transmission. The PCM will be happy and so will you.
I wasn't happy with the factory shifter and installed the Hurst Billet shifter. I was very pleased with the results.
CAGS aggravation? Don't live with it, instead get a 2K ohm resistor from the local Radio Shack and insert it in the plug at the transmission. The PCM will be happy and so will you.
#6
Recommendation
My car came with the B&M when I bought it and I like it. I do think that if I were to buy one it would be the PRO 5.0. I drove a buddies car with one in it and it seems just a tiny bit more crisp than mine does.
#7
Do you recommend it with its' included shift arm, or a shorter one?
#8
Arm
Mud..I believe the shift arm on the 5.0 was the one that came with it. Have not driven a car with a 5.0 and different arm that I remember. I do think it is a great shifter though. Like I said..mine is really good also..guess it would come to a matter of taste on how crisp one likes the shift pattern.
Bob
Bob
#9
Anyway, I tried asking the same question back before I bought mine (do a search, you might find the thread). There are only like three people that have tried more than one of the three, and none of them were able to provide any real insight about which is best.
FWIW, Pro 5.0 is the least expensive by quite a bit, and I'm very happy with mine.
The one thing I was looking for when I bought mine is hard stops. The T56 has internal stops, but they're insufficient to prevent you from bending your aluminum 3-4 shift fork. I have a steel one now, but I still like the added security of the stops. I think all three shifters have hard stops.
#10
#11
#12
Hey just wanted to add my $.02 here
I have the Hurst Billet Plus with a Lou's Short Stick.
The Hurst has the option of adjusting the spring tension on the centering mechanism. I did this to compensate for the loss of leverage when going to a short stick. Works beautifully.
I have the Hurst Billet Plus with a Lou's Short Stick.
The Hurst has the option of adjusting the spring tension on the centering mechanism. I did this to compensate for the loss of leverage when going to a short stick. Works beautifully.
#13
Pro 5.0 with the stick cut down about 1" is what I run. The stick they supply has a TON of extra threads so you can do this.
Also, the CAGS can be eliminated either with the plug-in module, a resistor, or reporgraming the PCM.
Also, the CAGS can be eliminated either with the plug-in module, a resistor, or reporgraming the PCM.
#15
I just finished installing the Pro 5.0/Lou's short shift combo tonight. I had popped in the CAGS eliminator on Monday.
First off, no question -- eliminating the CAGS solenoid is an absolute must-do mod. I was living with the lockout, but it is soooo much nicer without it.
On to the shifter mod. The install was very easy and took me about a hour, working carefully. Anyone that can change their oil can handle this. Shifting is quite a bit more positive now. There is absolutely no slop in the mechanism. The instructions said to cut the #6 boot, but I found an article on LS1HowTo.com where the poster said to not cut. I think that's the right call since there is little to no additional noise coming from the drivetrain. I am happy with the shifter, but the stick may take some getting used to. It is VERY short and when I shift into 4th and 6th, my hand bumps the console shift boot surround. I feel like it's about an inch too short. I put the stock round leather covered shift ball on, so slightly taller **** may cure my complaint.
All in all, I am pleased. Worst comes to worse, I'll put the stock stick back on the Pro 5.0 shifter. Thanks to all for your advice.
P.S. Having a car you can mod is fun!
First off, no question -- eliminating the CAGS solenoid is an absolute must-do mod. I was living with the lockout, but it is soooo much nicer without it.
On to the shifter mod. The install was very easy and took me about a hour, working carefully. Anyone that can change their oil can handle this. Shifting is quite a bit more positive now. There is absolutely no slop in the mechanism. The instructions said to cut the #6 boot, but I found an article on LS1HowTo.com where the poster said to not cut. I think that's the right call since there is little to no additional noise coming from the drivetrain. I am happy with the shifter, but the stick may take some getting used to. It is VERY short and when I shift into 4th and 6th, my hand bumps the console shift boot surround. I feel like it's about an inch too short. I put the stock round leather covered shift ball on, so slightly taller **** may cure my complaint.
All in all, I am pleased. Worst comes to worse, I'll put the stock stick back on the Pro 5.0 shifter. Thanks to all for your advice.
P.S. Having a car you can mod is fun!